Buzz from Remote Lead
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=59637
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 10:01 AM
Topic: Buzz from Remote Lead
Posted By: JAPSTI3
Subject: Buzz from Remote Lead
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 1:23 PM
Just installed 2 Kicker Amps and 12" Sub all the usual stuff, Problem I have is the Remote out lead on the Kenwood Double Din Head unit is DEAD. So used the arntena lead out the back of the head unit, at switch one it all works GREAT - Once the engine is switched on or at position 2 on the ignition even with the engin off there is a MASSIVE Buzz which when switched back to position one on the ignition, fades away. Help Im stuck? The power is coming straight from battery and the earth is from the back of the motor. I need to sort it soon.................. or I'll ......................... Cheers Ray :-)
Replies:
Posted By: JAydawg21
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 1:30 PM
What makes you think this is a remote wire problem?? It doesnt really sound like one to me.
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'97 Jeep Cherokee sport
subs: JL 12w3v2 : RF 500a2 :
RF 1F capacitor
doors: 6" Diamond D361i -> RF 200a4
Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 1:32 PM
I'd check it by using the B+ on your amps as the remote - just link them together temporarily & disconnect your existing remote, see if the buzz goes away. If no, the easiest fix you be use your existing remote to trigger a relay to power the remote to the gear.
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Posted By: JAydawg21
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 1:43 PM
boulderguy: How could the remote cause a buzzing?? I dont reacall ever hearing that before and I cant figure out electrically what would cause it. Your solution makes sense but i dont really see what could cause it.. and if it still buzzes off the B+ then what would he use to power the relay?? ------------- '97 Jeep Cherokee sport
subs: JL 12w3v2 : RF 500a2 :
RF 1F capacitor
doors: 6" Diamond D361i -> RF 200a4
Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 1:57 PM
JAydawg21 wrote:
boulderguy: How could the remote cause a buzzing?? I dont reacall ever hearing that before and I cant figure out electrically what would cause it. Your solution makes sense but i dont really see what could cause it.. and if it still buzzes off the B+ then what would he use to power the relay??
I've no idea what could be causing it w/o going thru the car itself. Maybe the remote is carrying some kind of feedback - who knows. Thing is, in any car there are hundreds of things that could produce strange noises that can & will find the weak link in your system and burrow in. The relay only helps if the buzzing IS from the remote (hopefully it won't follow thru the relay!). Past that, he'll need an EE. here's a thought: you may want to look at the ground - "back of the motor" could have caused some issues. -------------
Posted By: Francious70
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 2:06 PM
Sounds like the antenna motor is putting noise thru you lines.
Paul
Posted By: JAPSTI3
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 2:18 PM
boulderguy wrote:
I'd check it by using the B+ on your amps as the remote - just link them together temporarily & disconnect your existing remote, see if the buzz goes away. If no, the easiest fix you be use your existing remote to trigger a relay to power the remote to the gear.
Thanks for the quick responce folks but what do you mean "by using the B+ on the amp" what is the B+ just link them together" do you mean run a wire to link the live to the remote?
Posted By: JAPSTI3
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 2:21 PM
Oh and by the way I do not have an antena motor on at all so there is no problem there. The other give away is the loud pop when i switch the system off.??? Getting worried now
Posted By: JAydawg21
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 2:23 PM
acctaully I am an EE, which is why I ask a lot of questions. But your right, noise does find a way. Japsti3: The anntena remote should energize to acctuate the anttenna motor at the first switch position, same as the remote. The only difference in the anntenna and the remote is some HU's will kill the annenna when the tuner isn't in use. So I would doubt that the remote is the cause, but def. us the B+ as a test. it acctually sounds like maybe you have RCA's or speaker wires are running along one of your cars stock high voltage wires. When you turn your ingintion to the start position, it initiates a lot of systems like the vehicle's computer, ect.. Do the ussual, check your grounds, narrow it down to a system component like a cross-over or an EQ. Good luck ------------- '97 Jeep Cherokee sport
subs: JL 12w3v2 : RF 500a2 :
RF 1F capacitor
doors: 6" Diamond D361i -> RF 200a4
Posted By: JAydawg21
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 2:25 PM
sorry...B+ is the Battery + its your amp power wire
-------------
'97 Jeep Cherokee sport
subs: JL 12w3v2 : RF 500a2 :
RF 1F capacitor
doors: 6" Diamond D361i -> RF 200a4
Posted By: JAPSTI3
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 3:03 PM
AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH Not only does it BUZZ but when I drive the buzzing goes higher with the engine rev's........... This as got me the live wire runs down the centre of the car the leads down the left and the speaker cable even further over to the left. I have a Mitsubishi Delica. Jap import. Great motor Pa*ts ICE. Going to do the B+ test right now back in a mo
Posted By: JAydawg21
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 3:14 PM
There you go, you hit the nail on the head! Refer to the hundreds of posts on alternator whine. Check your grounds! If I had to guess, based on the loud pop you hear when the system turns on, I would say try adjusting your gains. One of the biggest noise problems is caused by the misunderstanding of what input gain really does and how to use it. Turn it down and see what happens. ------------- '97 Jeep Cherokee sport
subs: JL 12w3v2 : RF 500a2 :
RF 1F capacitor
doors: 6" Diamond D361i -> RF 200a4
Posted By: JAPSTI3
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 3:15 PM
No exactly the same, did the B+ test and got the same buzz as soon as I hit the engine switch on the ignition 
Posted By: Francious70
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 3:38 PM
First thing to check is your speaker wires. Make sure they're not pinched/cut/shorted.
If everything's ok, make sure everything is grounded in the same spot.
Paul
Posted By: JAPSTI3
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 3:40 PM
Laid both sets of speaker wires flat and taped them to the floor, there ground i have moved and still no joy. Seems it's got me beat..............
Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 3:42 PM
Is the deck grounded where the amp is? Try grounding them both to the vehicle frame (same place), not the motor.
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Posted By: JAPSTI3
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 4:57 PM
Rear is grounded to the frame via a bolt into the chasie, the the head unit is fine. It;'s the noise from the engin I cannot get rid of so the lot is comming out, never been one to mess about. If any one as any other idears just let me know. I'm toying with getting a stand alone battery in the rear?
Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: July 18, 2005 at 7:01 PM
Almost all alternator noise comes from a ground loop, meaning different components in a system grounded in different places but all tied together thru audio cables. You say your HU is fine. If it isn't grounded IN THE SAME PLACE as the amp, there's a good chance that's where your noise is coming from. -------------
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