Dual batteries

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=60352
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 3:29 PM

Topic: Dual batteries

Posted By: adix5689
Subject: Dual batteries
Date Posted: July 29, 2005 at 10:08 PM

My system is a total of 3500watts. I have a 170amp alternator. Will the alternator and two batteries be enough to power 4 alpine mrd-605s , one mrv-f545 and a mrv-f345 3 monitors and the dva-9560. What brand of batteries should I use. I was reading the forum and some people siad auto zone batteries were good. I just bought a new auto zone battery. Could a buy another autozone battery and put it in the trunk.

Replies:

Posted By: Blowntweeters
Date Posted: July 29, 2005 at 10:20 PM

for the trunk i would recommend a kinetik battery www.kinetikaudio.com of if you don't want to spend that much i would suggest the optima yellow top also you may want to look into an alternater that is more like 300 amps for the amount of power you are running that would be a better match

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

Posted By: godd dan it
Date Posted: July 29, 2005 at 11:29 PM

A second battery will only allow you to run your electrics of the car longer while the engine is off. It doesnt give you any extra power. If you experience any dimming lights and etc., then upgrade your alternator to a higher output.

Posted By: speedwayaudio1
Date Posted: July 30, 2005 at 4:20 AM

only use a sealed batt in the trunk. I run 2- 1000amp duralast batts,but they are both under the hood.

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Big Dave

Posted By: adix5689
Date Posted: July 30, 2005 at 10:14 AM

I have a 2001 honda civic and the biggest alternator I can find is a 170amps. Does any one know where I can get a bigger one. I got mine from 4alterstart.com. Do they make a 300amp alternator that bolts in the factory location.

Posted By: Blowntweeters
Date Posted: July 30, 2005 at 10:19 AM

check www.highoutputalternaters .com is the 3500 watt figure RMS or peakpower ? and did you install everthing already ?

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

Posted By: adix5689
Date Posted: July 30, 2005 at 8:54 PM

No I have notinstalled anthing in the trunck yet. I just finish inside the car now Iam going to do my trunk. I was going to go with 3 10inch alpine subs and 3 mrd-605s. The mrd-605 is 400watt x 1 at 4ohms or 600watt x 1 at 2ohms. Iam not going to be pushing them tthat hard. Inside the car I have a 5.1 system. If I use 3 10inch subs at 4ohms that would be 1200watt + 800watts for the multi channel amps thats 2000 watts. I should be able to power everything with a 170amp alternator.

Posted By: Blowntweeters
Date Posted: July 31, 2005 at 12:23 PM

with the rms power you are running that alternator and a kinetik battery will work the kinetik batterys are the best on the market for car audio use

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: July 31, 2005 at 1:29 PM

adix5689 wrote:

I have a 2001 honda civic and the biggest alternator I can find is a 170amps. Does any one know where I can get a bigger one. I got mine from 4alterstart.com. Do they make a 300amp alternator that bolts in the factory location.

That's as big as you're gonna ever find, too... I have the same car, and it's all I could locate in over 6 months of searching. That, BTW, is where mine came from too... Good alternator, but make sure you have a 4 gauge from it DIRECTLY to the battery, or you will never get the full capacity of it. I did quite a bit of underhood wiring modification for that kind of ampacity... PM me if you'd like specifics.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: July 31, 2005 at 1:52 PM

hae, what if the wire was wired to the accessory block or whatever(where the original wiring goes I believe)? Maybe that is the problem with the alt I got from them. It'd be great if they told me that this might be a factor, but they also approved of the install and testing the mechanic did locally and wanted it sent back. If this matters significantly I may try it...

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: August 01, 2005 at 11:46 PM

You mean to tell me you are using the stock #10 wire across the valve-cover for a 150A alternator?!?!? posted_image

Yeah, I'd say that's a BIG issue... They should have told you that the warranty is void if you do not use a power cable of sufficient capacity... At least that's the way it used to be, when I started buying alternators from them... Here is the link to their cable. Decent cable assembly, but I made my own, because I'm anal like that... Nobody makes anything "good enough" for me. 25 bucks is cheaper probably than you could build one for - at least of a good quality like it is... Yeah, go RIGHT to the battery with a #4 from the alternator, leave the stock accessory lead powering the fuse block, and run your amp power off the positive terminal as well. Monster makes perfect terminals for just this type of application. I use a dual post (top/side) battery, all of the accessory leads connect to the top through this terminal, and the alternator and starter connect to the side post...

Yeah, get rid of that OEM wire. It's WAY TOO SMALL... I left mine, so I can put everything back when I sell the car (or the wife gets it - whichever comes first). Just ran a #4 RIGHT to the battery...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."