Printer Friendly Forum Posts - HO Alternator or Capacitor

Hey fellas I'm back. I bought 2 15" BMF's and a 1000D amp about a month ago, and it had been doing fine. I had some light dimming, but I didn't think I would need to do too much to fix that. However, in the past 4 days I've blown two subs. I blew the left sub about 5 days ago, so I just went up to the shop and had em throw a new one in there, no big deal. But the next morning I blew the brand new sub just a couple of minutes after I started the music. So I've obviously got a major problem. The audio shop thinks that I don't have enough power getting to the amp, so my subs are getting a distorted signal at high volumes and are blowing. That sounds right to me, so the question is what to do about it. I've got a 3 year warranty on everything so getting them replaced is no problem. The people at the audio shop think that a cap will solve the problem, but I think they're wrong. I think I need a bigger alternator, and hopefully that will solve the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And, if I end up going with the alternator, I will need help figuring out how many amps I will need. Thanks.

First off, DON"T buy a cap or caps.

Yes your best bet is to upgrade your alt. as well as upgrade the wiring under your hood.

Blowing subs based on starving an amp like you have suggested seems rather unlikely, the more realistic problem sounds like the usual improper gain setting. Although it is possible to induce such a problem, the shop trying to sell you a cap is pretty low.

How did you set your gains? are you using any bass boosts or eq settings?

As a matter of fact, why don't you confront the shop (non-confrontational) and question their use of a cap as opposed to an alt upgrade. I think this should be done when a situation like this arises.

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Hmmm...well that sounds right. I had the guys at the audio shop set the gains, and I haven't touched em except to turn on the low pass frequency filter at the suggestion of someone on here. I haven't even looked at the gains because I knew if I did I would want to mess with them and I don't know what I'm doin so I don't wanna mess something up. Honestly I think the guys up at the shop are trying to sell me a cap because they honestly think that will solve the problem...I think they're more just ignorant than mean, but I don't know. I think the way to go is an alternator, but what wires do I need to upgrade under the hood? I have heard of the "Big 3," but don't know exactly what that is. I want to get this taken care of, but I've already spent more money than I ever wanted to.

Alternator

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

Any suggestions on a brand? or ways to save some money?

https://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=

That should help out.

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VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2

yeh that does help. do you think my local best buy would be able to do that? i don't know enough to be able to do it myself, and i don't really trust either of the shops in town to do it right. and, do you think that would be enough to solve my problem? i know you can't really know for sure, but just a guess

ok i just went up to the shop and found out that when they installed everything they turned ALL the gains ALL the way up. thats gotta be what is causing the problem, but they are convinced it's a low voltage. that might be a small part, but setting the gains all the way up has gotta be what it is. they really really want to put a cap on it, and they think it will solve all my problems. these guys really dont know what they're doing. do u guys think that fixing the gains will solve the problem?

At this point I would take matters into my hands. Get a meter, get a test cd and set the gains the right way. Even if you don't meter it, using your ears is a hundred times better than just cranking the gain.

Obviously the topic of setting gains has been beat to death so do a search and you shall find the answers.

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yeh i think i'll do that. they're still trying to sell me a cap, but it really shouldnt help at all. they're gonna order it today. i think im gonna tell them not to mess with the cap, and i'll just try to set the gains myself. if i lower the gains that will reduce the draw of the amp, will it not?

If you buy that cap, you will have essentially taken a step back from getting what you really need, an Alternator. People are telling you not to get a cap on here for good reasons, and money sure isn't one where that shops main goal is money from your wallet. Don't be a sucker!

There might be slight difference in how your electrical system reacts if the amp is less stressed, but I am not entirely sure. Quite simply you have a big amp and it pulls from your electrical system no matter what.

You wanna a cap so bad? I'll give you one. I have them laying around in my room. My alt. upgrade is what made the real difference.

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well with the second sub blowing out, I can say Im a firm beleiver in breaking in your subs before you try to get a substantial bass out of them.

A ho alternator and power ground and battery feed line upgrade is a must as well.

Now what kind of vehicle are we dealing with here, as I am always suspect at proper box eclosure for fifteens(unless in an suv)

oh by the way Im new here

dwarren i never said i was gonna buy that cap. they said they were gonna order it, im gonna call em and tell em i dont want it. we're dealing with a 2003 explorer

Neither did I...

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well you just made it sound like i was dying to buy a cap, and i really dont want one. my bad

It's all good, I just don't want to hear about someone wasting money! posted_image

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well i appreciate that you're lookin out for me like that. so i guess an alternator is the way to go. the new question is, how many amps will i need and where is the cheapest place to get one? i've got an amp putting out 1332 watts at 14.5 volts, and i think i remember it saying that it needs 120 amps at max draw, but i'll have to check on that when i get home.

Get the biggest one that will fit your car. You can never have enough, especially if you decide to upgrade.

I don't really have any suggestions on cheap alternators, but try looking locally first. On line vendors are more difficult to deal with as there is no shop to get help from and waiting for things in the mail isn't fun.

Price a few out and list them here so we can help you from there.

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ok well i dont even know where to get these things from locally. i guess i could go up to our autozone, maybe they would know something? i really doubt i will ever upgrade again, and money is very tight, so i really want to get the one that will do the job and not spend some extra money for something bigger. i know there is someway to calculate how big of an alternator i will need, i just dont know what it is. i'd like to find one for about 300 at the most if that is at all possible

for the alternator try a local auto eletric shop see if they can build you an alternater with twice the output as your stock alternator and for the gains your using your stock H/U in an 2003 explorer i did an install in an 02 it had a factory amp i chopped the RCA's and used the signal from the H/U going to the factory amp for the sub amp and the output was weak like 1.5 volts so the gains are set high but not all the way up so i would suggest you set your gains to match a 1.5 volt preamp output .and you may have to call a few auto eletric shops before you find one that will build the alternator you need call the shops that handle just alternators and staters most of those places rebuild in house

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok so the local shop is going to get in a replacement sub in about a week, and i'll have them throw that in there. now im about to go to school so i dont want to blow any more of these subs because i'll be an hour away. They keep trying to sell me a frikin cap and i know thats not gonna work. The shop turned the gains all the way up...do you think that is the problem? I know thats not good, and they need to be set correctly. If i took it to a professional and had them set the gains correctly do you think my subs would stop blowing? or do you think its a voltage problem like the shop thinks?

Set your gains correctly. A cap will not solve a voltage problem.

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yeh thats what i thought. i wish there was somethin i could do regarding this shop i've been working with. they really don't know too much about what they're doing. one thing i've been thinking about...what does a bad ground do to your system? just wondering if that could play a part. also, do you think i should take it to best buy and let them do it or should i try it myself?

The ground(s) is/are a very vital part of a properly setup system. I suggest you read some of the stickies up top and re-check your grounds with a meter.

Bad grounds can lead to many problems including fried amps.

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ok i will definitely do that.

well things just keep getting worse in this ongoing saga of mine haha. i just blew the only sub i had left, so now i have nothing. they keep saying that it's probably bad voltage, and a cap would definitely help. i just dont buy that though. today they mentioned that it could be some distortion coming from having the factory head unit in there, and i think there might be something to that. i also need a bigger alternator too cause the amp is going into protect mode after several minutes of play. so, does anyone think that the factory head unit could be causing some or most of my problems. if u need more history on the subject, check the first two pages. i really need your help on this one fellas...i appreciate it

Did you get your gain set properly?

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the shop turned them all the way up to begin with. they didn't set them properly, and once they replace the subs im going to take it to best buy and have them set the gains, or i'll do it myself.

SAMT18 wrote:

the shop turned them all the way up to begin with. they didn't set them properly, and once they replace the subs im going to take it to best buy and have them set the gains, or i'll do it myself.

Then I hope that replacement sub is free since that shop destroyed it! posted_image

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A shop around here destroyed one of my subs and they replaced it for free. I was happy.

yes ive got a 3 year warranty on the subs and amp, and if they keep on blowin im just gonna keep on takin em up there cause they are the ones that dont know what the hell they're doin. so is it pretty much a concensus here that the gains are probably the problem? im trying to find out for sure what the problem is so i can get it fixed before i leave for college

also, the guy up at the shop suggested wiring the subs to 4 ohms, as opposed to 1. i guess that would keep them from blowin, but i think i would lose a lot of bass and i didn't spend $1100 to have crappy bass

you will lose a ton of power if you wire it at 4 ohms and ya for $1100 on subs and amp it should be loud and clear and its gotta be the gains

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok thats what i thought. i do have the factory deck in there as well, so im sure thats already killin some of my power. this whole system is just screwed up and its pissin me off...i dont know what else to do. i dont have the money for an alternator and they wont keep replacin these subs forever so ive gotta figure somethin out fast

the factory H/U is not a problem its just that the signal going to your amp is 1.5 volts instead of 4 volts from a good aftermarket H/U but thats what gains are for look at the gain and you should find that there is numbers for preamp voltage try to get the gain set for a 1.5 volt input that should stop the subs from blowing and i would suggest playing your system at lower levels and mid volume levels to breakin your subs also what is the bass setting on your H/U if its turned up that could make for a bad signal to your amp i would set the bass on the H/U so it is almost all the way down and for the power problem i would try a optima yellow top if you can spend a $100 bucks i only say that because you said you cant buy an alternater right now

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok i'll see if that amp is put on 1.5 volts tomorrow. and the bass on my head unit was turned all the way up, which probably didnt help matters. im gonna have to turn either the amp gains or the head unit down so i dont blow the new subs. which would you suggest? i guess i could do both, but if im gettin a bad signal from my head unit then i should probably turn the bass down on that a little then on the amp as well. well yeh i can spend $100 but ive got nowhere to put it and where would i get one for $100?

ok the factory H/U is getting you about 1.5 volts a good aftermarket H/U will get you 4 volts and that is what the gain is for if you look at the gain you should see settings for preamp voltage get it set for 1.5 volts and set the bass on your H/U so it is almost all the way down that will help with a better signal to your amp and for your power problem i would try a opitima yellow top it won't fix the problem but it should help and it will cost about $100 bucks if you can spend that i know your way over budget hope this helps

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

yeh man that helps a lot. where can i get a yellow top for $100 though, and where could i put it? i guess you wouldnt know where to put it, but do i need to connect it to the alternator or does it recharge itself? i have no idea on that type of thing

ok the bass on the H/U turn it all the way down then maybe turn it back up just a little and for the optima yellow top replace your stock battery with it and to get it for 100 bucks try to find a auto parts store that is a value parts vender worst case you will have to spend like 140 for a exide orbital at checker thats one thing i noticed about the explorer that i installed a similer setup in that the battery and the battery termenals were crappy and i replaced just the termenals and there was inprovement if you can't get one of those batterys get the battery with the most CCA's that will fit under the hood of your explorer and about the gain you are most likly not going to find a setting for 1.5 but for 2 volts so go just a little bit higher than that good luck

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok i looked on the amp this morning and didnt see anything about 1.5 or 2 volts. ive got all my gains and stuff on one end of the amp and that wasnt there...could it be on the bottom maybe? also, what's the difference between a yellow top and my normal battery? i know they're different, but is it just bigger or stronger or what?

the optima battery is a dry cell and the yellow top is designed to run extra components like amps, wench's , etc. for your gain what i was telling you to look for would be right on the gain and would look like 2.V but if you didn't see that you should just turn your gain down a little if it's all the way up you know that it should not be all the way up the way your gain should be set with that low of preamp output should be high but not all the way so turn the gain down some and turn down the bass on your H/U can you post a pic of the gains on your amp ?

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok i will turn the gains down. i will also look into that yellow top...just guessing, how much do you think that would help? i couldnt find a pic of the gains on the net so i dont know what to tell you there...its a crossfire VR1000D

i think the yellow top and new battery termenals will give you a good improvement for your power problem your lights will still dimm just not as much and for the gain trun it down just a little bit because your preamp output is low when you get everthing done let me know the results

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok i will try to get one of those yellow tops. i'd like to get it off the net, which would be cheaper, but that means i'd have to use my parents credit card and they would find out that i'd spent more money haha. maybe that wont work. I won't even get those replacement subs in until mid next week sometime, but i'll let you know how everything goes.

you want to get the yellow top optima for cheep and you don't want to buy online look in the phone book for an auto parts store that is an auto value store you should be able to get the yellow top for about $100 puls tax

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

ok i'll do that blowntweeters. thanks for all your help, and everyone else too. i'll get back on and let you know how it works out

alright im back. i bought the yellow top and am still waiting for the replacement subs to get in...im at college now so i dont know when i'll be able to get back down to my hometown and get that stuff put in. but anyway, i was talkin to a guy that works for crossfire and he suggested me getting a sealed box as opposed to the ported one i have. said that would help my subs stop blowin. well i know a sealed box can help the subs handle more power, so i talked to my local shop and the guy there said that a sealed box with those subs would sound like sh!t so i dont know what to do. i think its worth the price of the box if my subs will stop blowin, but i dont want it to sound crappy either. anybody have any experience with BMF's in a sealed box, or any other suggestions?