Power requirements for this setup?

I am trying to figure out what will it take to run this setup and have no impact on power requirements or drain my battery down.

I currently have 2 alpine typer subs connected to 2 alpine mrp-m350. each amp has a rockford fosgate 1 farad CPCD10-03

what i want to do is keep this setup but add the following
2 alpine SWX-1242D 1000 watts each
2 Alpine MRD-M1005 1000 watt each
4 alpine type X 6 1/2 speakers SPX-17MB 75 watt rms 300 peak
1 alpine MRV-F545 AMP 125x4 rms

what will i need like capacitors, batteries etc.. in order to have this setup but not get ripped off with extra craqp dealers like to sell at times.

You'll definately need a high-output alternator and maybe a second battery.  Dump the caps.

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Support the12volt.com

alternator would be the best investment for you, then you could look into a kenetik battery for under the hood.   This would be the best and most efficent route to go, but not the cheapest.

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

what if I get 3 batteries and wire them in a series? I seen some guys do this especially when like dub magazine brings there cars to Raceway park here in oldbridge

how much money are we talking for alternator batteries etc..? rough estimate

So you're putting 2 Type R's and then 2 Type X's?

i have the type r's already in with 2 amps

i will be adding 2 type x and 2 mrd-1005 amps along with a nother amp for 4 swx component speakers

What's your reasoning for using two different subwoofers?  You must have figured out by now that "we" think.....er, KNOW.......it's a bad idea.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

i am wondering about the 2 types of subs also. for H.O. alternater $250 plus kenetik battery 300 to 450 but worth every penny.

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

They make HO alternators for $250? wowa, are you shure its not a legacy alternator?? lol   Anyways "Integrity" definately drop the type-r's, put the type-x's in some proper ported boxs, scrap that MRV-F545 and get a mrv-f540, its less power according to the specs on the box, but much better built to run those type-x components. Also, are you running type-x components in the back of the car? You can do it, but it would be a little more realistic to just put some type-r coaxials in the back.  but if you have the cash, all the power to you.

But definately look into a good alternator, your going to need it , and heres my reccomended alt list.  www.mechman.com, www.meangreen.com, www.ohiogen.com, dominik irregi alternators.  stay far away from alterstart, and be weary of cheap alternators, they are just that, , cheap, they may put out 180 amps, , but most likely in the red line of your vehicle, the alternators listed above put out there peak at normal driving rpm's.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

Well the entire reason I want to add the type x subs to my existing setup is to achieve more clarity with the bass and at a louder level considering the fact that I purchased the type x subs which they sound great why not add type x subs to the setup subs are subs right? wouldnt you achieve unsurpassed sound clarity if your running 4 subs versus 2 subs? if i get a chance later on to do so I will sketch out a drawing of what i want to accomplish. below is the current setup and the proposed let me know if this is workable withought getting an alternator setup and then the proposed

If you wire 3 batteries in series to power your system, your shooting 36+ volts into your amps!  When connecting multiple batteries, wire them in parallel so voltage stays constant.  You probably meant in parallel, but I just wanted to make sure.  I'd hate to see anyone smoke their equipment.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

can you please describe how to wire them in parallel so that way when i have the installer wire everything i can double check everything to void problems i dunno if you can use ms paint or something and draw 3 batteries and illustrate for me how they would be wired thanks ahead of time.

what i also am trying to understand is with my current setup right now i have no voltage issues i can turn off the car and listen tyo the radio blasting no problem for about half hour before i have to start the car so i would think 1 more battery would help power up the type x subs with no problem instead of 3 batteries. but thats why i am asking cause im not a pro a this

its simple.

Parallel:

   (+)---------(+)-----------(+)------->To car +

    1           2             3

   (-)---------(-)-----------(-)-------> To car -

Series

Car + <-----(+) Battery 1 (-)----(+) Battery 2 (-) ----(+) Battery 3 (-)-------> Car -

the amps your going to be adding produce more power and are going to demand more from your alternator . then the ones your running to your subs . what type of vehicle is this going in ? and the thing with adding batterys ,and not an alternator. is that if your drawing more power than your alternator produces.what this will result in is the extra power stored in the batterys will be gone over time.

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

i have a 04 explorer exlt sport v8

wekk im not looking to have the radio running when the vehicle is off or anything like that just as long i can get like 30 minutes of power like i do now is fine with me its mainly when im driving and all that i want the bass to hit hard 2000 watts on the type x plus 600-1000 on the type r's
along with the component speakers that has to sound sweet and clear

im now thinking of switching the type r's for two more type x for a total of 4000 watts of bass

switching to the same subs is a good step in the right direction, keep the subs the same and put them in proper box's with deicent power running to them. throw in a deicent HO alternato and a couple batteries (depending on there ratings)  but keep in mind what you want it for when getting the batteries,  if you want to listen to the music for a long period of time or just quick loud burst's (like at a competition)  that will change the type of battery you use,  a regular car starting battery will be good for those quick burst's and a good deep cycle will keep you going for a longer period of time (someone correct me if i'm wrong here) just that's what i've always been told

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Tri County KustomZ
certified installer

definitely H.O. alternator i got one done for about $300 and its a 200amp installed and warrantied...with ur setup u will need a battery isolater so Your batteries will remain separated while the engine is off, preventing voltage drain and will not have a voltage drop either . a 200amp isolater will be a good idea and u can pick one up from Sound domain.com for about $70 shipped. caps are good as buffers but it is always a good idea to upgrade the source (alternator) rather than just try to delay the inevitable.

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Bass-oholik

Hehe thanks guys I will kaboom my neighbors soon LOL they dont like me now as it is

I willget my Lr3 soon and pop this configuration in there.
cause im not doign anythign since i am getting rid of this piece of shhh ford explorer i have busted th transaxle twice, the clutch packs twice, brake light sensor switch 5 times, the moonroof makies noise since the day i drove it been there numerous times so whiting 2-3 weeks my LR3 will arrive :~) IM in heaven

can i just add, that for the people who ARE wanting to increase the volts, prolly shouldnt do it with two batteries, u'll still get 24v to ur amps, not good, but on some amps 16v, and even 18v are "doable". but, if ur going to do this even, make sure u have a 12VOLT SOURCE to ur remote turn on input on ur amps!!