4 gauge on my amp, but how?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=63513
Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 10:37 AM
Topic: 4 gauge on my amp, but how?
Posted By: hellyhans
Subject: 4 gauge on my amp, but how?
Date Posted: September 29, 2005 at 9:43 PM
Ok, well I got a orion HCCA 225 but its not the G4 series. I see the power cables that have been soldered to the board and they seem to be 10gauge. Now I wanted to but on 4 gauge power to this amp. How would I go on doing this?? Do I just mate the two wires together and solder them, Or should I completely remove the 10gauge wire and solder the 4 gauge directly on the board of the amp. Now i'am scared to do the last step as if I remove the wire, i'am scared that I won't be able to solder the 4 gauge wire back to the board.. what do you guys suggest?? Would I still get alot of current to the amp if I mate the 4gauge to the 10 gauge as close as possible to the amp? ( 2 inches ) This is what it looks like...8 gauge wire soldered to the 10 gauge wire. The connection is pretty close to the other board components.. If I desolder the 10gauge wire.. will it leave a hole in the board or is there a kind of stub sticking out of the board to plug and solder the new wire?? FYI= I didnt do that soldering job.. my moron friend who I lent the board to one day did. 

Replies:
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: September 29, 2005 at 10:58 PM
I wouldn't be soldering no 4ga into that PCB. Put some 2' 10ga "tails" on there to go to a proper distribution block that gets the 4ga.
Are you planning on running this thing for extended periods at .5ohm stereo at high volumes???? The 2' of 10ga that they had on there from the factory will handle the current that the amp requires.
Gus
------------- Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: hellyhans
Date Posted: September 29, 2005 at 11:18 PM
gus1]I wrote:
wouldn't be soldering no 4ga into that PCB. Put some 2' 10ga "tails" on there to go to a proper distribution block that gets the 4ga.
Are you planning on running this thing for extended periods at .5ohm stereo at high volumes???? The 2' of 10ga that they had on there from the factory will handle the current that the amp requires.
Gus
Hi, what do you mean by "tails"? are you recommending to remove the 10ga and solder 2ft of 10ga back to the board going to 1 positive distributor block and another distributor block for the negative with 4ga inputs?
Posted By: hellyhans
Date Posted: September 29, 2005 at 11:19 PM
gus1]I wrote:
wouldn't be soldering no 4ga into that PCB. Put some 2' 10ga "tails" on there to go to a proper distribution block that gets the 4ga.
Are you planning on running this thing for extended periods at .5ohm stereo at high volumes???? The 2' of 10ga that they had on there from the factory will handle the current that the amp requires.
Gus
Oh and this amp will be powering 1x 10" alpine type R at 1ohm, so around 400-500 RMS
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: September 30, 2005 at 12:19 AM
Correct.
When these things were new, that's all that was on there. By "tails", I mean just that.... when the wires are properly soldered in there, and the amp is back together, it will look like the amp has a tail....
Pulling 50A through 2 feet of 10ga should be OK. Pulling 50A through 20 feet of 10ga.... not so good.
Gus
------------- Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: hellyhans
Date Posted: September 30, 2005 at 2:20 AM
gus1]C wrote:
rrect.
When these things were new, that's all that was on there. By "tails", I mean just that.... when the wires are properly soldered in there, and the amp is back together, it will look like the amp has a tail....
Pulling 50A through 2 feet of 10ga should be OK. Pulling 50A through 20 feet of 10ga.... not so good.
Gus
Hey thanks Do you recommened getting a power distributor for the ground also?? as It will be 4ga ground IN and OUT to 10 ga. I've been told that the ground should never be smaller than the power wire Concerning the fuse.. Orion says my amp's current raw is 30-35 AMPS. What kind of fuse will I need? Do I need a higher fuse if I will be bringing 4ga power to the power distributor?
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: September 30, 2005 at 9:42 AM
If the amp draws max 35A, then fuse it at 40A.
If you are running a 4Ga back, then use a 4ga ground.... use the appropriate methods of making the 4ga into a 10ga such as a ground distribution block, perhaps a bolt and a nut, whatever it takes.
Gus
PS: If the manufacturer put 10ga on there, then 10ga is prolly enough
------------- Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: September 30, 2005 at 4:11 PM
gus1] wrote:
If the amp draws max 35A, then fuse it at 40A.
GAHHHH!! What are you trying to do, fry the guy's amp? NEVER NEVER EVER over-rate a fuse. If the amp pulls 35A, FUSE IT FOR 35A! If it pulls 35A max, how is it ever going to pull 40A to blow the fuse?
The 35A maximum current rating, provided by the manufacturer, is the highest the amp should ever be fused for.
I had one of those Orion amps, and if memory serves me correctly, the fuse installed in line originally was a 30A fuse, as 30A is the largest value you can get in the AGC style of use, which is the provided fuseholder type on that amplifier. I did fuse mine at 35A (in a distribution block), but I was running it at .5 ohm per channel, and I was continuously blowing the 30A fuse. I am NOT recommending you do this, and I did it against the manufacturers recommendations as well... At that load, I might add, there were still occasional fuse poppings as well, but not nearly as many as I was having before. This tells me that the maximum continuous current draw is somewhere between 30 and 35A, and it also tells me that a 35A fuse was riding the ragged edge of safety! ------------- It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: hellyhans
Date Posted: September 30, 2005 at 5:41 PM
UPDATE: So I removed the 10ga wire that was soldered to the 8ga.. here you can see 8ga wire next to the holes in the amp.. they dont fit. I'am able to put a good amount tight in there and might be able to solder around...I will ver and keep you guys updates on my setup 

Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: September 30, 2005 at 6:08 PM
I thought those had an internal 30A..... haven't seen one in several years. They had an ATC flying on the leads? Any one that I remember seeing had no fuseholder on it.
NO... I am not trying to fry this guys amp...jeez. Trying to jam 8ga in there is scary enough.... let alone 4.
Gus
------------- Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
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