Problem installing amp
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=63593
Printed Date: July 14, 2025 at 4:12 AM
Topic: Problem installing amp
Posted By: johnsin
Subject: Problem installing amp
Date Posted: October 01, 2005 at 1:36 PM
Hi,
I got the used A/D/S PQ40.2, which the seller claimed the amp work just fine. Assuming the amp is good, then there should be problem with my installation.
I have not plugged in any loads (speakers) and signal to the amp yet. First, I grounded the amp to the screw of the backseat using 8AWG wire, and run 4AWG wire for 12v+ from the battery. I only wanted to test whether the amp turn on ok. Since I have not decided which remote turn on point I will use, I just connected the wire to 12v+ to turn on the amp.
The problem is once I connected the remote wire, all interior lights are getting into dim/bright cycles. So I checked the voltage at the battery, the voltage jump up and down from 12v to 14v. And the amp is not turned ON properly, the power led is blinking just like the amp is turning on and off with the same rhythm of the dim/bright interior light.
Could anyone help me with this problem?
I am still using the standard battery. The amp is 4x100watts at 4ohms. Is there any problem for Mazda6 alternator and standard battery to handle this amp?
As additional information, I checked the voltage of the 4AWG 12v+ wire and 8AWG ground at amp end, the voltage is showing 14v with engine on. But it starts fluctuating once I connected the remote to battery 12v+ to turn the amp on.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Replies:
Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: October 01, 2005 at 1:43 PM
Yes, the stock battery/alternaor should be fine with that amp. No, the amp doesn't sound kosher. There's definitely some shorting going on, but where is anyone's guess. Check the power lead to make sure it isn't grounding somewhere, I doubt it is. Next guess is your remote - are you sure it's ++? I'd set it up as a jumper from power to remote for testing. If still the same problems I'd disconnect the amp & take it to a shop who can bench-test it, or just beat up the guy who sold it to you.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: October 01, 2005 at 1:48 PM
Begin by connecting a proper ground. The wire must be as large as the power wire. After disconnecting power and battery negative terminal, reroute the ground using 4 ga. to a place close to the amp directly into sanded clean sheet metal. Use a self-tapping screw or a bolt and nut if you can reach the underside. Check the ground resistance with a multimeter. Also remove, sand or wire brush, and reconnect an upgrade ground wire from battery neg. to chassis, as the original ground in that location will be too small. You can add a 4 ga. wire and leave the existing OEM ground wire connected. After that, check power-on by jumping 12V from the amp's B+ teminal. This test will eliminate possible problems that could be caused by your choice of remote 12V location. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: October 01, 2005 at 1:51 PM
I agree. Sounds like the amp is fried. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: johnsin
Date Posted: October 02, 2005 at 11:37 AM
Thank you, I will check tomorrow as per your suggestions and report back.
Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: October 02, 2005 at 11:39 AM
I will say that's a good amp, worth fixing if you have to.
Posted By: johnsin
Date Posted: October 02, 2005 at 11:49 AM
Yeah.. I am dying to get this amp to work. I heard good things about this amp, and I trusted Ed Meitner design.
I have a D/A converter for home audio that design by Ed Meitner at A/D/S as well. It's discontinued, but still a stuff that many audiophiles are eager to own.
Posted By: johnsin
Date Posted: October 04, 2005 at 12:40 AM
I think I fried my amp. Lastnight, I plug the 12v+ and ground directly to the battery with short thick wires, and suddenly it burned (I can see the fire not only spark) near 12v+ and ground sockets. I am quite sure the 12v+ and ground were not shorted at all. And I have no idea what caused the fire, maybe the amp itself is shorted inside. Any idea? Thanks.
Posted By: jeffchilcott
Date Posted: October 04, 2005 at 6:22 AM
was the amp fused at all? with that short of wires it would be very easy to fry an amp very quick
Also if power and ground get mixed up and hooked up backwards it will make a amp go poof in a second.
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Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: October 04, 2005 at 11:01 AM
That would be bad. Too late to return it?
Posted By: johnsin
Date Posted: October 04, 2005 at 12:27 PM
The amp has fused, and the fused is ok. I didn't fuse the short wire though, and I was very careful to make sure I plugged the correct wires and not to short any. Got to be more careful next time.
But I do feel the amp itself is not really in good condition, else it would turn on ok with my wiring. I just put a DLS A3, and all the wires are fine.
Well, I am trying to contact the seller right now to see how I can resolve this, and worse come to worse I will need to send in for repair. Dunno how much it gonna cost me. Hmm....
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