CD player no power

Cd player has no power when installed. im using the aftermarket harness and then I make the connections from the CD player to the aftermarket harness. I connect all the wires and there is no power. where to I connect the positive dimmer and ilmination wires from the aftermarket harness to? I connected the ACC wire from the CD player to the harness or Do I connect it to the cars ACC wire?

what kind of car is it?

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929 mazda 92

dont worry about hooking up the dimmer and ilum wires. just color code everything. make sure there are no bare wires or youll blow fuses. does the stock radio still work if you hook it back up? if not then you probably blew a fuse.

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I got the car without a radio but when I got a stock radio it gets power but no sound.

There is an ACC wire from the CD player and on the harness Do you connect it to the ACC wire under the steering wheel or thru the harness instead?

use all the wires on the harness. just color code all the wires.

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I dont know why there is no power to the cd player even after color coding it.

Answer his question above: "Does the stock radio work if you hook it back up?"

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

I got the car without a radio I added the stock radio but it gets power but no sound. so I brought a CD player and this is where im at now I get no power to it. so I put the stock radio back and it gets power. but it never did get any sound.

Okay.  Test the speaker wires to make sure the speakers are okay.  If you can't measure any ohms on these wires, your speakers are probably blown because I don't remember seeing a factory amp in this car.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

This car does have an amp. not in mines it did not come with anything just the speakers. the speakers have no tick or sound I thought a blown speaker would still work?

Have a look here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1992-93&make=Mazda&model=929&ID=18276&type=Stereo

Also here: https://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mazda-Wiring.pdf

If the voice coil is open, you wouldn't get any sound.  Have you verified there are speakers in there?  I had a kid bring me a Mustang to do an amp bypass, but some of his speakers were missing.  Just a thought.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

All the speakers are there. I dont even get a tick or anything from the speakers.

is the aftermarket new? you still have the problem of no power to the aftermarket  hu? are you planning on keeping the factory hu or do you perfer the aftermarket. if the radio was missing chances are he had an aftermarket him self and who knows what he did. missing speakers bypassed factory wiring. geepherder is diffently right by verify\ing if there are speakers in that car and you will need to verify that factory wiring is in tact if you inteand on using that harness to bring sound from hu to speakers. if the aftermarket is old hook it up to a 12vdc power supply or battery and see if it works. if you want you can use a 9vdc battery to the speaker leads at the harness to get a reaction out of the speakers just in case the factory hu has blowen outputs. lol

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

There are no missing speakers. all the speakers are connected. I still have no power to the aftermarket hu. the factory wiring are intacted and when I connected the stock radio it gets power but no sound. the aftermarket has a 12volt wire but I did not connect it to the battery its connect thru the harness 12volt. can I just take the 12volt wire from the aftermarket and connected to my constant power cable under the steering wheel instead.

you need to check the wires from the cars harness with a DMM to insure that you have constant 12v, switched 12v, and a good solid ground.  from there you can determine if you need to replace a blown fuse or possibly running wires to the ignition harness of the vehicle and ground to the chassis.

I have power using the stock radio
do you think it could be a fuse?

It sounds like you're looking in the wrong area then.  You say the units both power up, you just get no sound, so you know that you have constant, accessory, and ground. 

That being said, I think the easiest/best solution would be to forego the factory amp and just run fresh speaker wires directly from your radio to the new speakers.  Even before you do that, though, you can test the speaker outputs with a speaker to make sure they are working.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

i think what he meant was the aftermarket HU doens't power up from the previouse post...just a thought though...is there a fuse on the back of the cd player your trying to install? i fixed a guys cd player in a 96 cav that the fuse on the back of the deck itself was blown. (it was an older JVC)  and just for something in left park but i've seen it happen...hows the connections inside the wireharness you put in? we had one at a shop i use to work at the the pins pulled out very easily...maybe one has slid back far enough not to allow power to your deck and when you replace the aftermarket deck and put the factory one back in you remove that harness and remove the prob...just my 2 cents

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Tri County KustomZ
certified installer

only the stock radio gets power but no sound.
the aftermaket does not even get power.

directly ground the aftermarket. follow geepherder advice and run speakers wires to the speakers you probably have a factory am, so just run some speaker wires. you didnt say if it was an old aftermarket or new. is there a qeustion on if the aftermarket works or not. like i said directly ground the hu to the chassis or plug the ant. in it will bring ground to the hu. also take the advice of using a dmm or test light to verify what your constant and switched power is in your factory harness.. on aftermarket hu yellow is constant and red is switch so once you know where those two are in you factory harness you should be functional on the aftermarket. i would spend time on the aftermarket if thats what is going in the car once you get it powered then take the next step and hook up a single speaker to the hu to verify it work then try your car speakers. did you use the 9v battery i suggested to see if you got any reaction out of the factory door speakers? to verify they work. if not pull one out and test it directly to the hu. if it works chances are the rest do if not chances are they all dont work. get the hu powered up and take it from there. lol

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

Ok I will try to get the aftermarket to work.
since the stock radio gets power how can I get sound to it?
the speakers are installed and the I checked the fuses and there ok. I will try different speaker and see.

trying speakers on the factory is great if you try it and it works then you have a problem inbetween the hu harness and door speakers if they dont then there is a good chance they work(speakers). get th aftermarket hu working keep us posted. lol

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

Cant help with your power problem, but you will probably find you have factory amp in your mazda. The equivalent Mazda 626 has 2 amps, one for front and one for rear speakers.
Cheers

The sound will not work without the factory amp?

if dark mist is right and i thought you wrote that you did not have a factory amp. then you will not get sound out of the speakers if they do not turn on. if this is true and you do have a factory amp then listen to the advise a few of us gave you and run new speakers wires. i still am woundering why the factory amps did not turn on and work with the factory hu. your fuses are ok? i will try to find out if you have factory amps but you will not ,want to use the aftermarket with the factory amp and if the amps are inop then bypassing them is your best oppition. either running new wires or getting a bypass harness and locating those amps. have you figured the power problem out yet?

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

I dont have the factory amp in my car or the stock radio when I brought the car. I had to get a stock radio for this. the last owner must of took out the factory amp and radio. I guess I have to bypass it.

if the factory amp is gone you need to connect the input / output for the factory amp to finish the curcuit . this is why most likely your speakers dont work. purchase the bypass for the amp the one i suggested in the previous post. whats happening is the sound is making it through the wires but cant continue because the amp is missing and the curcuit is severed at that point. the bypass will fix the problem on the sound part, have you got anywhere with the aftermarket power problem? after bypassing because the amp is not there the factory hu will do you no good so you will need to get that aftermarket working.

if you have trouble getting the bypass harness you can ,but will be alot more work. make the connection your self by cutting and soldering the wires inbetween the input/output harness where the bypass would go.

of course it will be the best to locate a bypass harness and then if that fails you do as suggested in the second part. you will need the schematic/color code for the amp if you choose the sencond part to do so. because the input colors code will be different then the output color code. you could always run speaker wires like we have suggested earlier. for me, cutting and soldering would be the less labor intensive but running new wire you get to choose type,guage and quality but will be more work.

keep us posted lol

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

I dont seem to have the factory wiring that goes to the cd changer and amp in the trunk but in the junk yard they all the this wiring Im guessing I have to go back and get the wiring for the amp to run this bypass. Why did the last owner do this.

well the cd changer will be input to the hu so try not to put that into the picture. look at where the factory amp was mounted and the harness closest to that area , the plugs on the bypass will only go to the plugs for output/input for the amp. all the bypass does is finish the speakers wire curcuit like i posted previously. all it is, is a set of wires with two plugs on the ends that one end plugs into input and the other to the output.

i have no anwser for why they did this. there are a few reasons,but the last owner might have cut the plugs off of the factory harness because of what ever reason. do you have a bunch of fraid wires near where the amp mounts? if so you will not be able to use a bypass and will have to get the soldering iron out and get to work as i said before, you can use butt connectors but i do not suggest that.

can you take pic's of what wiring you have,so it will help me better assist you in this. it's hard trying to give you good sound advise without seeing what exactly is going on. pic's would help.but it still sounds like your in the dark about some things and if there is no way to better explain what you have going on there meaning no pis'c or knowing what the last owner exactly did by words i would consider going to a local shop and see if they could help. i'm sure they could.

try to give so more info and i will help the best i can.  good luck

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

The whole harness to the factory Cd changer and amp is not even in the car. I looked for it and I dont even see it. but when I went to see the same car somewhere else it had the wiring harness. the harness was removed by the last owner im guessing. they did not even cut it they removed the whole harness so there is no wiring to the factory amp. I may have to pull one off the car I went to go see.

yes that is an option or you will need to run new speakers wire from the hu to the speakers. but when you say they removed it. that brings questions. like was it removed from the closest connector from the amp. they have sub harness's so there could be three different section of just the harness inbetween the hu and the amp and the same from the amp to the speakers. have you fixed your power issue for the aftermarket hu? because running those harness could be just as hard or harder then running your own wires and if you go with running your own then you have the choice from wire type,gauge and style. i would rather have that choice myself. just better sq and at this point from what you say it sounds the best way to go.

if money is not an issue, well it wont cost that much. put a 4 channel amp in that will run you say around 150.00 to 250.oo for something decent. run a couple of sets of rca's from the hu back to the amp in the trunk or if you have room under the front passenger seat. then run you speaker wires from the amp into the door pillars left and right and branch off from there through the rubber insolator inbetween the door and pillar.

that sounds like tje best thing you could do. if your able to locate the harness and not take out the hole rug and get it connected again great. but i would save myself sometime and probably money and run them your self. it sounds like they did a number on that car. are you sure that harness is gone and not just out of sight? have you fished around for it?

well let us know what happens!

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs