This Possible?

https://img360.imageshack.us/img360/806/untitled4ws.th.png

This is just my remote wire.

Basically, Amp On Led to the right on. Amp off Led to the left on. However keeping my speakers on

I plan on getting the remote (acc) from my deck harness

Civic 98 DX

I'm basically adding a swicth to turn the amp on/off as I please (when the car is running).

Flip the switch on  - LED #1 (the right one) Turns on and my amp turns on.

Flip the switch off- LED #2 (the left one) turns on but my amp turns on. 

Okay... I'm sorry the pic is small, but here is how it looks top then the right side, then the left.

TOP SECTION |Remote Wire/ACC|, Then there is a SPDT Switch.

RIGHT SIDE- LED #1, then a NPN Transistor to bring the voltage level back up for the remote wire.

LEFT SIDE - 1 Diode to protect from feedback and protect the cct,  470 ohm Resistor, finally LED# 2.

Then the emitter of the transitor and the cathode of LED 2 are connect to the common ground.

I hope that its explained clearer. Thanks

Here is the larger image.

That won't work very well.

When you turn the switch on you will most likely fry your LED (unless you have a 12vdc LED).  You should install a resistor in line with the LED (and the base of the transistor, for that matter) to limit its current draw.

2nd, that is an NPN transistor.  When you apply positive voltage to the base it will connect the emitter to the collector.  This will put a ground to your amps remote turn on lead.  When you don't have power applied to the base the remote wire at the amp will be open.

Do you have to have two LEDs?  I would just use a spst switch, one 'on' LED and a resistor in line with it. 

Why exactly do you want to do this

honomichl wrote:

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Why exactly do you want to do this

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Because its a challege and I would like to something more that just a plain looking switch.

As for the LED's, I got them ordered and they come with the resistors for 12V. Can you suggest a size for the resistor for the base?

Umm.....

The resistor for the base really won't be needed, since the transistor won't do what you want it to do.  If you want a 12volt output you should consider switching to a PNP transistor (3906, for example). 

The transistor really isn't needed though, it really isn't serving a purpose at all, except to complicate things.  Transistors primarily serve one of two purposes, switching or current amplifying.  You already have a switch, and a remote wire pulls about 0.06mA.

But, typically you pick a base current to limit the total output of the transistor.  The current out of the transistor is equal to the base current times the beta value of the transistor.  So, if you limit the base current you can limit the output of the transistor.  If you don't have a heat sink you should limit current to less then 100mA.

You would be best off using a SPDT relay for your purpose.  Wire the switch in line with the coil of the relay.  Wire Pin 30 to the 12VDC source.

Wire Pin 87A up to the 'OFF LED' using a 1K resistor

Wire Pin87 up to the Remote wire on the amp, and the 'ON LED' through a 1K resistor.

That will make everything work.  If you feel you HAVE to use a transistor for something you can use it to drive the relay, just don't forget to add a diode across the coil of the relay. 

And I'll be able to throw the switch at my will? Or is it the same as the acc when I turn my car on.

Thanks

Kevin`

Is this what you were explaining to me. I appreciate your help. And everyone else who posted.

Thats basically what I was saying to do. 

You can eliminate the diode in line with Pin 85, also.

Don't put the 'ON' LED in series with the turn on lead, put it in parallel.  This means, instead of putting the resistor in line with the turn on signal 'T" it off.  Hook the positive side of the LED up to the other end of the resistor and then hook the other end of the LED to ground.  The resistor will create quite a voltage drop, and you most likely will not be left with enough voltage to turn your amp on if it is in series!

Other then that, you are good to go it looks.

Great sounds good. Thanks again for your help.  I visited your site, great layout and I saw the good old word engineer.

LOL, you dont have to worry about explaining abouta parallel and series. I've taken electronics course for the Air Force. I'm just a Avionics Systems Tech., I just fault find, and rectify the probelm.  

Once again, Thanks and have a great holiday vacation (Well deserved one too, as the rest of us)

mi_what wrote:

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look canook, you don't have to be an a***ole about it. I was just throwing my two cents in there. If you don't want to use my idea don't try to undermine me. What I saw was that you wanted a kill switch, and I proposed the simplest plan.

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wow, you obvisouly read that post the wronge way. I had no intentions of undermining you whatsoever. And I appologize if it did.

Accepted?