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magic box that boost the alternator?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=66787
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 2:31 AM


Topic: magic box that boost the alternator?

Posted By: qmw54
Subject: magic box that boost the alternator?
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 10:29 PM

one of my friends was tellin me that the reason his lights dont dim is because he bought this "box" that boost the alt. from a audio store ???? what could he be talking about  and do they work ??? and one other thing does it make a diff. in sound if you downfire your subs rather then upfire or put them facing foward and if so how much diff.

thanks qmw54




Replies:

Posted By: ragoal12
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 10:45 PM
about the only thing the "box" could be is a voltage regulator... never used one on a stock alternator so they may work..... and subs that r downfired will sound louder than forward firing subs... but don't buy the "box" just buy a good HO alt if u need one...

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S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska




Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 12:01 AM
a step-up transformer maybe? and most alts have voltage regulators in them. some are external. but you have to have one or your alt will run wild and burn things up. but i cant see a step-up transformer help from making the lights dim. can you get a pic of that "box"

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Posted By: jstruckman
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 9:21 AM
He is probably just talking about a capacitor, nothing magical about those. And downfiring subs are not always louder than front firing subs. It will depend on your box and what vehicle you are working with.

Jazzy

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Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 10:09 AM

from my expeirience i have found out that downfireing subs arent louder they gust have better sq and there is less crosscansulation because it uses the floor panal as a wall so the sound goes in all directions instead of being faced towereds the back so the sound goes and hites the back and bounces forword. so there is a more evenly distributed sound wave. and it also seems to have less standing wave i dont no that for sure though.posted_image i also THINK that since it is faceing downwords that gravity takes some of the staren of the sub so it is easyer for it to move downwords but very little. and pointing a sub upwords is not a good idea because you loss db. but if it is the only way then you sould go ahead and do it. i think that facing a sub downwords is a good idea but i like to be able to see my subs so i face them forwords. if i was going for sq then i probibly would do it. 

and were is this box located, how is it setup, and a name or serial number, model number would be helpful. there are to many things it could be. 

Aaron



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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
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Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 10:42 AM
youngone wrote:

from my expeirience i have found out that downfireing subs arent louder they gust have better sq and there is less crosscansulation because it uses the floor panal as a wall so the sound goes in all directions instead of being faced towereds the back so the sound goes and hites the back and bounces forword. so there is a more evenly distributed sound wave. and it also seems to have less standing wave i dont no that for sure though.posted_image i also THINK that since it is faceing downwords that gravity takes some of the staren of the sub so it is easyer for it to move downwords but very little. and pointing a sub upwords is not a good idea because you loss db. but if it is the only way then you sould go ahead and do it. i think that facing a sub downwords is a good idea but i like to be able to see my subs so i face them forwords. if i was going for sq then i probibly would do it. 

Wow, where to begin... most of that is wrong information.  First, do a search for "woofer sag" and you will find a thread discussing how to determine if a woofer can be used up or down firing.  Second, there is no "loss of db" when up-firing nor is there some sort of gravity aid if down-firing.  This is nonsense.  Both up and down will place the same strain on a woofer.  Some can handle it, some can't and the loudness and SQ has nothing to do with how it's mounted all by itself, it has to do with overall system design.

The direction a sub should face is determined by three things: first, the vehicle and what works best in it (and every one is different.)  Second, the woofer and how is is designed to be mounted.  Third, the requirements of the installation and the intended system design.  All three must be considered for proper woofer and enclosure choice.



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Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 11:43 AM
DYohn you must get to work before me. You beat me to it on this one.

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There is no such thing as free installation!




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 1:18 PM
Ya know recently someone posted a link to a *really* good couple of pages that featured some guy with like $5K worth of oscilloscopes and mics and computer sound software and he did like this crazy experiment trying to figure out exactly how sound waves work with cars' in various stages of setup... like one series of measurements of the trunk closed, seats back, one with the trunk open and the seats closed, one with everything closed.. all kinds of stuff.

Really informative stuff...

Anyone know what I'm talking about or what happened to that link?

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 1:31 PM
Oh yea.. back the topic of "magic boxes" ... I once heard about a guy using an Alumapro 5 farad CAP to reinforce.. get this.. not his sub-amp.. but his cars' electrical system. Like, he ran the thing to the wiring harness of this cars battery, not back in the rear with amps.

Of course, this brings up another bug-a-boo I've never gotten real straight on: the proper behavior of DC current.. some people akin it to water.. more pressure in certain parts of the system than others correlating to demand... this logic leads us to conclude that the CAP would work well in this situation.. the CAP between the lights and battery, instead of the amp and battery, would reinforce the lights no? DCs' transmission/distance difficulties would support this line of thinking ... ?

Others akin it to a unified system.. a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit is a voltage drop everywhere.. since electrically speaking, the circuit all looks like the same 'point' ... this logic would lead us to conclude that a CAP at that stage of the electrical system would be just as effective.. or ineffective.. as a CAP sitting 2 inches from the amp it is meant to reinforce.


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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: pss5075104
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 1:41 PM

he might have a batcap.



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D

MECP First Class Certified Installer.

Nothing is impossable, it's just more expensive.




Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 5:06 PM
sorry guysposted_image gave the rong infoposted_image well that is wy this forum has people like dyohn and tcss. il let you guy take this one.

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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 5:50 PM
sedate wrote:

Oh yea.. back the topic of "magic boxes" ... I once heard about a guy using an Alumapro 5 farad CAP to reinforce.. get this.. not his sub-amp.. but his cars' electrical system. Like, he ran the thing to the wiring harness of this cars battery, not back in the rear with amps.

That COULD be done, with no guaranteed benefit... I have considered doing it myself. It would ONLY be effective at filtering noise, and ONE SHOT high current pulses...   the kind you get when you turn on your headlights, or step on the brakes. It COULD maintain the system voltage for situations like that, much the same way people think they will do that for their amps. Personally, I think that'd be just as effective as using a "stiffening" cap for what it was "designed" to do. The same capacitor/power/filtering rules apply to ANY electrical system... loaded with accessories (amplifiers) or not. If the SOURCE (the alternator, in the case of the automotive environment) is not up to the task, the entire system will suffer, and the power source needs to be upgraded. End of story.

sedate wrote:

Of course, this brings up another bug-a-boo I've never gotten real straight on: the proper behavior of DC current.. some people akin it to water.. more pressure in certain parts of the system than others correlating to demand... this logic leads us to conclude that the CAP would work well in this situation.. the CAP between the lights and battery, instead of the amp and battery, would reinforce the lights no? DCs' transmission/distance difficulties would support this line of thinking ... ?

The "pressure" is akin to the voltage. The "volume" would be akin to the current. The more pressure present (higher voltage) the more volume (current) can and will flow in a given hose (wire), until the hose bursts (or fried wire). There ya go. Easy peasy.

sedate wrote:

Others akin it to a unified system.. a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit is a voltage drop everywhere.. since electrically speaking, the circuit all looks like the same 'point' ... this logic would lead us to conclude that a CAP at that stage of the electrical system would be just as effective.. or ineffective.. as a CAP sitting 2 inches from the amp it is meant to reinforce.

A voltage drop at one point in the system will indeed manifest itself at all other points in the system. The saving grace to this will be the actual wiring of the system. The actual resistance of the wire will "filter" the drop at the source. i.e. If you are using a wire RATED for 100A, but you are trying to pull 150A through it, the voltage drop will be SIGNIFICANTLY higher at the load end than the source end. If you are pulling the same 150A load through a wire rated 200A, the voltage drop at the SOURCE will more closely reflect the voltage drop at the load, due to the lower resistance, and the higher current carrying ability of the larger wire. Aditionally, if all the wire in the system is OVERRATED, ANY voltage drop at ANY point in the system will be noticeable in the rest of the system.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 5:58 PM

tcss: I'm actually off today and wrote that while having my first cup of coffee.

sedate: electricity works as in your second example: in a car's electrical system, the voltage will theoretically be the same everywhere.  The effects of a capacitor will be felt throughout the entire electrical system, so they may be connected anywhere so long as the power cables between the cap and the loads are sufficient for the expected current.  Now, what does a capacitor DO?  It dampens minor fluctuations in system voltage.  A cap is a voltage ripple filter, and will attempt to maintain system voltage constant anytime it changes.  Their function in a car audio power supply is to help keep the voltage stable when amplifiers have momentary peak demands as they can react faster than a battery or alternator can.  But they can only hold a very small amount of energy.  Even huge milti-farad capacitors can only sustain voltage for very small time frames (like fractions of seconds.)  They do nothing to compensate for alternator or battery overload due to undersized supply for the given demand.

youngone: best not to post if you are not sure of something, or to ask questions before putting out incorrect info!  But yes, this forum is for people to learn from, so keep reading.



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Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 6:46 PM
my badposted_image

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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: November 22, 2005 at 9:43 PM
Im going to throw an hand in here an say that "box" may very whell be a battery, , you know, , that thingy with that white mold growing from the metal thingys....

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: November 23, 2005 at 12:38 PM
i think i found out what he has

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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in




Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 23, 2005 at 6:49 PM
Can't see how that will do anything either. Basically, the unit you linked to is a "smart" trickle charger. When it sees it's input side x#V above static (meaning, the main battery is charging, so vehicle is running), it then connects to the other, auxilliary, battery and charges it.    Essentially, it is an intelligent battery isolator for all intents and purposes..... can't see how it will boost an alternator's output.

Perhaps buddy picked up a Jacobs Accuvolt and is using it to hammer his system with a constant 15V or so all the time.

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: November 23, 2005 at 8:02 PM
Not to mention the fact that at 20A (which was the maximum current capacity I saw) why would you choke your expensive high dollar alternator down to a 20A output? Makes no sense to me...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: November 23, 2005 at 8:03 PM
ya that is true.
i dont see how a 15v curent would do enything eather except for make the amp take up more power. i have a friend that has something like a fuse that regulates the amount of power that is going to the amp. makes it so that it dosent draw more than a set watts. i dont know what it looks like though it could have looked like a box but i dont know.
PS: your saying thing at the bottem is funny "carefully packed surrender flags"ha ha ha posted_image

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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in




Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 12:07 AM
still an accuvolt is just a step up transformer. does nothing to boost ampere.

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Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 10:06 AM
If he is using an accuvolt, it will demand more from the alternator, not boost it.  If you up the voltage into a given ohm load, current goes up as well.  That's basic ohm's law.  If the alternator cannot support this abuse, it will die an early death.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 11:41 AM
Yes. But. Back in the good old days of non regulated power supplies and big dumb non Class D, X, H, or whatever have you (IE, everything was Class A or AB), you could really make that PG M44 (for example) really make some power by keeping the power supply seeing a 14-15V input voltage, car running or not.

I remember when Accuvolts were all the rage when they came out..... of course, that was when you were also happily hanging out in the IASCA 1-150w power class for your entire system, and hitting 140db to annoy the neighbors wasn't a priority.

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......





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