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Box making

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=66944
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 8:30 PM


Topic: Box making

Posted By: ssnds
Subject: Box making
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 11:50 AM

I am sure making a box is not hard. Some info on nails, glues, trick & tips would greatly help. I already have the box dimensions. Hopefully someone understands what i am asking.



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SSounds



Replies:

Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 12:00 PM
if you use nails your box would eventually fall apart. use screws like dry wall screws work fine coarse thread.  glue, liquid nails,  brace it well,  seal all inside joints     

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Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 12:09 PM
what size of material. what kind of material? MDF?  any doubled layers anywhere?

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SSounds




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 1:05 PM
Do you have access to a air nailer? What size of subs are you using? brand / type / amplifier power?

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 2:37 PM

yea i have access to almost any size air nailer what size u need? just like a pen nailer? for like trim and shhh? about 1 1/2 nail? 16guage nail.. something like that.

2 12'' RE SX, 2 crossfire vr1000d's.  so about 2200 watts rms.

'03 impala ls



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SSounds




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 2:57 PM

In most cases a screwed together seam will split long before a glued together seam. This is why it is fine to use brad nails. The sole purpose of the nails is to hold the two surfaces in place until the glue dries. Once this seam has dried, the surfaces are more than adequately bonded for most subs. If you want to support it even more and in your case is highly recommended, lay a strip of glass on the inner seam, overlay it about 2" on each side, use a couple layers. This will make the seam way stronger than before, way way stronger. I use 16 gauge 1.5" brad nails for .75" mdf. Use a good amount of glue and spread it on the edge of the surface to be adhered first. Do not just lay it on in a strip and expect pressure to spread it evenly as it doesn't. So lay it down, use your finger and cover all of the surface, then nail that seam together. I would not nail within 2" of the end of a piece of the mdf to ensure that it does not split on you. Again, glue is going to be by far stronger than nails or screws. If you are going to screw, again stay away from the ends of the mdf and you must predrill everything.  In 20 years of building boxes I have only had to screw together a handful of boxes, these were usually ones that involved massive amounts of power and 1" mdf. I have had two boxes that were nailed come apart over the years, in both cases it was due to the customer not having the box secured down and allowing it to be bashed all over the trunk (or box of truck in one case). Use a good yellow wood glue for this.



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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 3:02 PM

i am new to f-glass.  thinking about messing around with it actually. i was at wal-mart the other day.. stopped by some glass.. i saw different type.. wood.. metal.. new car glass. etc..  pretty much just buy which is for your application then follow directions? once i start my experiment pro .. i 'll be askin in F-glass forum.



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SSounds




Posted By: mariocesar
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 3:48 PM

Use MDF 3/4" thick  (obviously you have to add or substract this thickness to or from the dimentions depending on the case) and use the dry wall screws (black ones,1 1/2 " lenght) ,you will also need a drill instead of a screw driver so it will be easier and faster to assembly your box

Also, I recommend liquid nails heavy duty glue, apply enough to assembly and seal at the same time(be carefull on how much glue you apply inside the port

Do not use nails ,beacuse the MDF is a very solid material , the nails applied with the air nailer will broke it,believeme! =0)

..and almost forgot it!  put the screws every 1 1/2 inches ....

that´s all what I did with my enclosure(  kicker compcvr 12")   ,I tuned it @ 38 hertz and rocks!





Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 4:18 PM
I will echo Forbidden on this one. All the brad nails do is hold it until the glue dries. Use a good glue, have accurate cuts, and lots of glue, you will be ok. Generally the MDF will break before a properly glued joint.

As far as screws go.... PREDRILL. Use a good coarse threaded wood screw, you'll be fine. Drywall screws aren't the strongest things inthe world, they tend to break rather easily.

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: mariocesar
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 4:30 PM

I ment the black metal threaded screws,the ones that are strong...I´m sorry but I don´t know its name in english ,ask for them at home depot...and Gus1 is right ...predrill!!!!





Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 4:42 PM
mariocesar wrote:

..and almost forgot it!  put the screws every 1 1/2 inches ....


Damn, you must go through a few boxes of screws on a single project. Rember it's the glue holding the box, the screws are used to clamp the joints while they dry.

I think every 3-5 inches would be adequate



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Posted By: fugit
Date Posted: November 24, 2005 at 6:16 PM

Liquid nails rocks, some kind of caulk on the inside of all the joints.  The 2 inch screws are enough every 3-5 like dwarren said.  Just to give you an idea of the weight capability, the cabinets in your house are held up with only a few 3 inchers and they hold up tons of weight well.  I have some shelving in my garage with 6 2 inch screws in the studs and theres at least 300 lbs of junk on them.  also when you use screws, use a countersink to make them sit flush or just under the level of the material.  That way if you want to upholster the box with something you don't have bumps everywhere.



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"I'm Rick James bi***, enjoy yo' self Ah Ah Ah"
Dave Chappelle as Rick James




Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 12:00 PM
looks like every one builds boxes a little different some nails some screws.. it all works the same. but i have found that screws tend to make the contact points tighter. and yes gus was right pre-drill.

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Posted By: mariocesar
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 1:02 PM

you have to use good screws so they thight while the glue gets dry ....and you have to leave them there!  once the glue is dry ...it is easy for the MDF to get broken because its physicall properties...it is a hard material but at the same time it is to easy to break it ...

and the screws are not expensive.. I got 80 screws for near to 3 dollars at home depot!





Posted By: audiobhan101
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 4:13 PM
I am actually building a box as I speak. Im using 1-1/2" #10 screws. just basic wood screws with a fairly coarse thread. Using somthing like liquid nail only its called SureGrip and it polyethalyne<-(spelling) based so it wont harm the subs. I pre drill with a 5/32 bit and just use a screw driver to screw it together because i dont want to split anything.

I recommend doubling the thickness of the front if your subs are really big and heavy plus that provides a sturdier mounting point. My box is going well and its only taken me about 3 hours so far and all i have to do is cut the mounting holes and mount the front panel.

any sugestions on how to cut the most accurate circle?

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84 Mazda Rx7 GS
4 15" Audiobahn High Excursion
1 2500W Orion Amp
Custom Box




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 4:40 PM

audiobhan101 wrote:

any sugestions on how to cut the most accurate circle?

Use a Jasper Jig on your router.  Also, if you use poly glue make sure you pre-wet the edges of the MDF so it won't soak up all the glue.

In general, my opinion is if you use screws instead of clamps, in a well-made enclosure you should be able to remove them without changing the integrity of the enclosure.  If not, it's not well glued or braced.



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Posted By: audiobhan101
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 11:53 PM
thanks Dyohn!

thats an excellent way to do it i was gonna go buy a fancy dremel with a circle attachment but i have a router so ill just buy that attachment at home depot or somewhere like that.

I pre soaked the MDF a little but it looks like alot was still soaked up.

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84 Mazda Rx7 GS
4 15" Audiobahn High Excursion
1 2500W Orion Amp
Custom Box




Posted By: sunsettt
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 1:13 AM
I'm new here and got i question that I didn't see it anywhere. Why we don't make the speaker box by the high quality of plywood? what the different? it still strong any way! Thanks




Posted By: Teamrf
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 2:38 AM
Plywood is heavier..and less dense than mdf. MDF is very cheap but more expensive than plywood.

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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.




Posted By: audiobhan101
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 12:46 PM
ok i was pretty sure that MDF is much much heavier than plywood and that MDF is average price because it is just compessed saw dust. i get sheets for $40 which is cheaper than most plywoods.
But im a newbie maybe im wrong....

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84 Mazda Rx7 GS
4 15" Audiobahn High Excursion
1 2500W Orion Amp
Custom Box




Posted By: j_darling2007
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 2:46 PM

audiobahn, it sounds as though you are getting ripped off.  Lowes charges $19.99 a sheet (49"x97") for 3/4" mdf.  Even at places that are a little higher, the price very seldom gets over $25 a sheet.



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There are 3 kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't




Posted By: mariocesar
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 3:07 PM

Hey I have one more suggestion: once you are done finishing your box leave it outside the house, be sure the sun gets  inside  thru the mounting holes so it will get dry much better. this will help to avoid gases that could damage the gasket....leave it for a couple of days and then enjoy it!





Posted By: audiobhan101
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 3:59 PM
To j_drling2007:

I live in a fairly small town in canada and we only have 2 lumber stores both were same price but one had free shipping so i took that. im gonna have to march down there tommorow and ask why the price is so high. if i could have bought 2 sheet for the price i paid for one im gonna see to it that i get 2 sheets fopr that price.

thanks for the heads up.

Box is done by the way. I will carpet it and post pics if i can get my digital camera working.

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84 Mazda Rx7 GS
4 15" Audiobahn High Excursion
1 2500W Orion Amp
Custom Box




Posted By: mariocesar
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 4:11 PM

yes send us pics!!!!





Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 5:21 PM
at my work most of our lumber comes from canada.. ;)

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SSounds




Posted By: luckydevil
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 5:44 PM
Am I the only one who uses Gorilla Glue on here? It foams up and seals all the joints for you. You just have to sand off the excess on the outside of the box.




Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 7:06 PM
never heard of it.. anyone else heard of it or tried it before? or is it just another way for someone?

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SSounds




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 8:04 PM
good stuff (gorilla glue).

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: menace2sobriety
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 8:19 PM
i was going to try gorilla glue on my last box. but at just over a dollar an ounce its a bit much. when i can get liquid nails for $4 a 10.5oz tube.

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Posted By: j_darling2007
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 8:42 PM

I used Gorilla Glue on my box for my 2 Infinity reference 12's.  I think that if you drop the box the mdf would break before the glue.  And the foaming action is a great way to completely seal the box.

Gorilla Glue is great stuff.

And, btw, to audiobahn101, follow this link to lowes website and print the page and bring it to your lumber store to show them.  You'll probably have a better chance of getting a discount of some sort.  But the taxes are higher in Canada, too, so you'll have to take that into account.

https://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&Ne=8000&N=0%205000158&category=Particleboard%20/%20Medium%20Density%20Fiberboard%20Panels&pad=true



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There are 3 kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't




Posted By: gi jesus
Date Posted: November 29, 2005 at 11:26 PM
i work n a home hardware in notheren alberta and 3/4 mdf is only like $28 a sheet and tax here is 7% so it  isnt ever $30 a sheet with tax.....so $40 is kinda high




Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: December 13, 2005 at 7:57 PM
OK new question.  I did some measuring in my trunk. The measurement between the rear wells is approx. 35 1/2''. that way the box will be all the way up against the back seat. The question is the box calls for 36 wide and 25.5'' deep.. Can i make the box say 34 wide and 27.5 deep? You get what i'm sayin?  The box is RE specs for dual 12'' Sql.

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SSounds




Posted By: jeffchilcott
Date Posted: December 13, 2005 at 8:15 PM
not quite that easy,    take your demensions...H X W X D

and figure out your net Cu FT

Then re adjust to the room you have and get your last side based on how it will match up to your orignal demensions

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: December 14, 2005 at 12:36 AM

odd about Canada prices being higher - bc i think a lot of US lumber comes from Canada.

Will you update us with pics of your progress?



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Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: December 15, 2005 at 7:00 PM

ok got it. orginal is 13.5*36*25.5 new is 13.5*34*27..

Q. does resizing the box like that change the tuning?  or just as long as i dont play with the actual size of the hole? hmmmm



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SSounds




Posted By: ssnds
Date Posted: December 15, 2005 at 7:31 PM

Wow, that's going to be a big box. Does anyone have any experience with RE's and there box sizes? I've heard go with what the re site recommends.  hope i dont get a flat anytime soon. haha. would it be ok to mount my amps ontop of the box?



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SSounds





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