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DVC versus SVC

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=68512
Printed Date: June 10, 2024 at 8:06 AM


Topic: DVC versus SVC

Posted By: satfiles
Subject: DVC versus SVC
Date Posted: December 16, 2005 at 9:06 AM

I am considering buying the Infinity Perfect 10.1 Sub. They also have the 10.1d for the same price. Other than wiring option is there anything else to consider when choosing between the two?

I like a well rounded system and don't care for the earth shattering bass. I just sold the Rockford Fosgate 301m and the 12" HE that I had because the bass overpowered everything in my truck (single cab silverado) and there was no room for the woofer.

I took everything out of my truck and am going to put it in my civic. The rest of my system consists of the following:

Eclipse Head Unit CD5423, Infinity Kappa 3-way 6x9's, RFosgate Fanatic Q 6-1/2" 3-way component system, and RFosgate 801x 4-channel amp.

Of course the components (mid-range and tweeter) will go in the door of the Civic and the 6x9's in the rear. I plan to power these speakers with the 801x, each channel directly to the speakers individually. Now I just need to add the bass.

My plan was to start with the single 10" Infinity Sub and a 2-Channel Amp that I could bridge and later add an additional 10" if I wanted. Or I could just go back with a mono amp and power the single 10".

I am open for opinions at this point regarding the SVC versus the DVC, as well as opinions on the sub itself. Any other opinions on the best way to make this all come together are more than welcome. I like mostly club music but also listen to just about everything else on occasion. After having the 301m and HE sub I want to come up with something different that will give me a well rounded system that meets my needs.

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: December 16, 2005 at 10:49 AM
No. There is nothing to consider when PURCHASING the woofer.

When INSTALLING the woofer, however, there are some things to consider. Wired in series, your amp will not make full power (about half what it is rated for - still plenty though), BUT your distortion will be measurably lower, the amp will run noticeably cooler, allowing it to last longer, and the damping factor will be 4 times what it would be with the VCs in parallel. THAT spec alone, for me, would make me consider the series wiring. If SQ is what you are looking for, series would be the choice, especially considering the amp selection - absolutely NOT my first choice.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: niskyspy
Date Posted: December 16, 2005 at 2:04 PM
check see if your amp is 2 or 4ohm stable, if u want more bass go with 2ohm cuz most amps get higher wattage output at 2ohms then 4ohms. its all about what amp you got and if you are adding another amp or two in the future.

PS: Hey 3 way component speakers??? WTF?? U got a cone + tweeter + what??? and were do u put the XXX??? I guess they are not component but I want to be sure. :)

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Infinity 1242, Kenwood 7202, Panasonic dec




Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 10:50 AM

haemphyst wrote:

If SQ is what you are looking for, series would be the choice, especially considering the amp selection - absolutely NOT my first choice.

I have no "amp selection".

The 301m was sold with the 12"HE as I said in my post.

The only amp I have is the 801x which I plan to use with the compnents and 6x9's.

Are you saying that I could also use the 801x to push the 10" Infinity Sub as well as the other speakers? If this is what you are suggesting would you run the woofer in series with the 6x9's? If that were the case how much power would be going to the 6x9's and the sub? The 801x is stable to 2ohms stereo and 4 ohms bridged. Here are the other specs:

4 ohm load per channel = 100w x 4

2 ohm load per channel = 200w x 4

4 ohm load bridged        = 400w x 2

The components (fanatic q 6-1/2) are rated for 4 ohms @ 100w

The Infinity Kappa 6x9's are rated for 4 ohms @ 110w

Previously I had the components and 6x9's running off the 801x and a 301m connected to the 801x pass thru pushing the 12" HE.

The 301m and the HE are history. I sold them. My plan was to get the 10" Infinity sub and another amp to push it. If there is a way to run the 10" sub along with the compnents and 6x9, while still pushing the full 100w to the compnents and sub, and running the 801x stable I wouldn't mind doing that. Especially since I don't care for extreme bass I would be happy to try pushing less wattage to the sub, but I don't want to push less than 100w to the other speakers.

Otherwise, tell me what amp you suggest to push the 10" Infinity with good sound quality preferred over strong bass. Also, tell me if you think there's a better choice than the 10" Infinity Perfect.

Thanks





Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 10:59 AM

niskyspy wrote:

check see if your amp is 2 or 4ohm stable, if u want more bass go with 2ohm cuz most amps get higher wattage output at 2ohms then 4ohms. its all about what amp you got and if you are adding another amp or two in the future.

PS: Hey 3 way component speakers??? WTF?? U got a cone + tweeter + what??? and were do u put the XXX??? I guess they are not component but I want to be sure. :)

Technically speaking it is a "system" that consists of a mid bass speaker, a tweeter, and a crossover; so, yes they are components. I just think of the entire set of speakers as a 3-way system because the mid has a cone in the center and not just a solid woofer.





Posted By: oxygen65
Date Posted: December 18, 2005 at 4:14 AM
go with the dvc there is way more wirering options




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 1:41 PM
satfiles wrote:

I like mostly club music but also listen to just about everything else on occasion.


I think the Kappa Perfect is an outstanding choice for you. That sub is absolutely first rate. I'm getting ready to replace my CDT 12's with 3 of them.

The only thing that really jumps out at me is the smallish woofer choice for what appears to be a top end that could melt the hair out of your ears... I'd be *far* more comfortable with pairs of woofers, especially in terms of 10" woofers..

Not sure what kinda space you are comfortable working with, but two of them in a 1.8 cft ported box @ 33 hertz will give you +-2.5 db from 30 - 80 hertz...

heamph is right on here as well... the Perfect can take a beating, but really doesn't need much to get it moving... you'd definately be better off (if you have a discerning ear and really do not care for extreme bass that is) at a higher impedence, especially with cheaper amps like the RF...

And this is a great time to buy.



-------------
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 11:37 PM

sedate wrote:

The only thing that really jumps out at me is the smallish woofer choice for what appears to be a top end that could melt the hair out of your ears... I'd be *far* more comfortable with pairs of woofers, especially in terms of 10" woofers..

Not sure what kinda space you are comfortable working with, but two of them in a 1.8 cft ported box @ 33 hertz will give you +-2.5 db from 30 - 80 hertz...

heamph is right on here as well... the Perfect can take a beating, but really doesn't need much to get it moving... you'd definately be better off (if you have a discerning ear and really do not care for extreme bass that is) at a higher impedence, especially with cheaper amps like the RF...

And this is a great time to buy.


Yeah, I was already looking at the prices there.

So, if you had the same top end what would you put behind it? I was also looking at the Perfect 12's. I want a really nice overall sound and not the bass that overshadows everything else. The 12's are only $20 more but take up more room and I'm afraid I'll just have a bass machine. If you wanted the nice overall sound and had my top end what amp and woofers would you choose?

Thanks 





Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 2:36 AM
I mean I *do* want a bass machine so I'm going to mate 3 of the Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1d's to my JL Audio e1800d... so I'll be showing a 2.7-ohm load... I guess a round 600watts or so.. 200watts/sub. From my experience with the 12" variant, that should be more than enough to ply them satisfactorily... in fact.. in WinISD, they model nearly 9dB louder than the two CDT 12's I'm using now.. which.. eh.. are pretty loud.

I'm not sure I'd recommend the 10 over the 12 or the other way around.. I've heard a few systems with Perfect10's and they all sound excellent.... the loudest system I've ever heard had 4 of them... on the other hand, I had a pair of the 12's for quite awhile and was extrodinarily pleased with those as well.. I put those to a JL 500/1 before the whole deal got stolen..

satfiles wrote:

I want a really nice overall sound and not the bass that overshadows everything else.


Hmm.... see you are putting a HUGE 4-channel to a fairly substantial amount of cone-area in your cabin.. I'm not sure you are really going to have a bottom end that overshadows everything else no matter *what* you put in your trunk..

BUT... I try to shoot for a 50/50 power split between >100hz and <100hz ... in this case, I'd recommend a solid 400-watt monoblock or 2-channel to you.

Not sure your price range, but something like this would sound absolutely out-of-this-world mated to those Perfects... any of them... and those amps are a steal for what they do..

Sooo.. yea.. sounddomain has some really nice prices right now man... try a *pair* of the Perfect10.1d's, in a (this part is really important, I've modeled the bejezus out of this woofer, trust me here) 1.8 cft *ported* box tuned to 30-hertz. This will give you an EXTREMLY flat response curve of +-3dB from 30-80hz..

Get that PG amp up above... its not the prettiest thing in the world, but its a steal for its power supply and onboard xovers...

-------------
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 7:56 AM

Sedate,

Thanks for the advice. I'm off to work now but will look at all the specs and very well might do exactly that. This is about the price range I wanted to be in for this part of my system. I'll message back if I have any questions.

Thanks Again.





Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 4:12 PM

sedate wrote:

Not sure your price range, but something like this would sound absolutely out-of-this-world mated to those Perfects... any of them... and those amps are a steal for what they do..

Sooo.. yea.. sounddomain has some really nice prices right now man... try a *pair* of the Perfect10.1d's, in a (this part is really important, I've modeled the bejezus out of this woofer, trust me here) 1.8 cft *ported* box tuned to 30-hertz. This will give you an EXTREMLY flat response curve of +-3dB from 30-80hz..

Get that PG amp up above... its not the prettiest thing in the world, but its a steal for its power supply and onboard xovers...

So, if I wired the speakers parallel and the voice coils in series according to the woofer wiring config that would create a 4 ohm load. Using the 400w X 1 PG amp would that be pushing 200 watts or 400 watts to each speaker wired like that? 400 would be beyond the RMS for those speakers. I'm not clear on how to determine the wattage output from that amp with 2 subs, opposed to 1 sub.

I guess I would have to build my own box to meet your specs.? I haven't studied that aspect yet. I have a nice table saw, mitre saw, about 7 different types of sanders and plenty of remodeling experince so it wouldn't be a problem. What do you mean by "tuned to 30hz"? I guess I'll try reading on the boxes and see if I can figure it out unless you know of a source that I can buy one from at a low price. Otherwise if it's more cost effective I wouldn't mind building it.

Thanks





Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 10:18 PM
satfiles wrote:

So, if I wired the speakers parallel and the voice coils in series according to the woofer wiring config that would create a 4 ohm load. Using the 400w X 1 PG amp would that be pushing 200 watts or 400 watts to each speaker wired like that?


Exactly correct on the wiring.

You would be pushing 200watts to each speaker. This will be plenty to run them very well. Don't worry about the RMS or whatever here.. its actually one of the less important specs.    Since we're porting them, we'll be lowering physical power handling anyway... 200watts is great place to be for long term reliablity and output with these woofers.

satfiles wrote:

I guess I would have to build my own box to meet your specs.? I haven't studied that aspect yet. I have a nice table saw, mitre saw, about 7 different types of sanders and plenty of remodeling experince so it wouldn't be a problem. What do you mean by "tuned to 30hz"?


Wow it sounds to me like you need to built your own box! I think you'd do a bang up job.

You will spend $20 on the MDF, and another $10 - $40 on things like Liquid Nail, deck screws, and Fiberglass Resin, depending on the direction you want to take your enclosure.

There are characteristics of this woofer that make building your own enclosure *highly* desirable... let alone the sense of accomplishment.. I would recommend you try it..

'Tuned to 30hz' means that you will be using a port tuned to 30hz... that is, designed with the right length and opening, to match up with the box volume to give a tune of 30hz...

If you are building your own box, you would be using something like PVC to build a port. You can also build it into the walls of your enclosure ...

Read this entire page.

And this one.

Questions?

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 11:37 PM
I'm off to bed now. I'll read everything tomorrow and message you. Thanks for all the help.




Posted By: satfiles
Date Posted: December 22, 2005 at 12:44 AM

Sedate,

With the holidays I've been in and out. I'm just getting back to this reading. I see that some boxes that have 2 subs are open and others are seperated by a wall in the center of the enclosure basically making it 2 individual boxes connected together.

The 1.8cf enclosure you are talking about is 1 box for both subs that is totally open inside where both subs share the same air space?

Thanks





Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: December 22, 2005 at 7:54 AM
Uhh...

It doesn't really matter if it is seperated by a wall or not.. in terms of pre-fab boxes, this is probably to add strength to what is probably made out of particle board..

1.8cft is fine either ported or sealed... but what you need is something in the .7 - .9cft range for that sub to be happy...in fact, I'd stick with a larger sized box if you go with that PG amp, just because we'll be working so much lower than the RMS of the speaker.. If you want to port the enclosure, which for frequency response *and* output, I would certainly recommend, you will probably find a pre-fab is not what you want.. I've never found precisely tuned pre-fab boxes anywhere.. they usually have awful 'spl' tunings in the 40 - 50hz range..

Anyway, if you don't want to be bothered making your own, you can certainly purchase one, but I think you'd find any particular sealed box would work as well as any other..

-------------
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview





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