Why is my system shutting down?

Alrite sorry earlier about the post about the train horn, i understand the severity of it and to think about it, it is a pretty stupid idea. Ok now to my main question.  For some reason my whole system shuts down whenever my bass amp turns on now. I have a toggle switch in line with my remote wire to my mono amp and i have another seperate remote wire without a toggle switch for my 4 channel amp for my speakers. I will turn on my car and turn off the headunit and turn the mono amp off and my speakers will work. Then when i turn the switch to my mono amp on the music shuts off and the red lights to both my amps light up.  Im wondering if it has something to do with my power system. Im running 4 guage wiring right now to a memphis 2000D mojo amp and 8 guage to my 4 channel amp. Im also using one stock battery. I have 30 feet of 0 gauge wiring and 2 exide deep cycle batteries ready to be all installed next week. Also i will turn my headunit off and turn the switch off and then turn my headunit back on and the mids and highs work fine and then i will turn the volume really low and flip the mono amp switch on and the bass will be working until i turn it up and it will all shut down again and all amps will have red lights on. Could someone please help me. thankyou

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Sorry i forgot to add that i have a 200amp ho alternator

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Sounds like too low an impedance load on the amp, or gain is too high.

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Sounds to me like a low voltage situation. You said that you have a 200A HO alternator, and assuming that is functioning perfectly, how are ALL of the connections in your system? I am talking about battery power leads, ALL of the ground points in the car, terminals on the battery corroded?

After all of this, what is the condition of the other 2/3 of your Big 3?

Lastly, MAKE SURE your alternator is working correctly. Have it tested.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I just had it put in about 4 months ago. I looked at my battery under my hood and the terminals are corroded a little bit. Not bad though. All my ground points are fine, ive had them for over a year and everythings worked perfect. Ive heard about the BIG 3. Could you explain to me exactly what that is? And how easy is it to upgrade to? Could I do it myself? Thankyou so much

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

you need some info on the big 3 upgradeclick here wried all the info on this page. it has some pics on it to help you understand it.

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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in

(read) god i cant spell

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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in

you are either drawing to much power or your subs are wired at a to low of an impedency for the amp to handle causing it to go on protect

I just ran 0 gauge power wire for my amps and they seem to be running cleaner. I put polyfill in my box about 3 days ago and my subs for some reason when they change freqencies at a fast rate they all of a suden sound really bad and it sound like the voicecoils are scratching together. Its really wierd, i wanted to know if the polyfill had anything to do with it or if its because of my amp over powering the subs. I hear the memphis subs can hold a lot more power than they say they can. Im putting 2,400wrms to 1500wrms of subs. I have the gain on the amp pretty low. Also i have a knob on my amp that says "QFC", what does that stand for and what does it do?

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

QFC = Quickly Fry Coils. Turn this up too high and it will fry the voice coils on unwanted subs so you can get them changed out on warrenty :) Honestly I have no idea what it stands for, is that on the amp.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

The 16-MC2000d "Mojo" amp has both variable low-pass filter and a variable sub-sonic filter.  The "QFC" control may be one of these: check your owner's manual.  But based on the description you posted, "quickly fry coils" sounds like what's happening.  Your amplifier is rated at 2000 watts into 2-ohms.  Whoever told you that Memphis (or any other) speakers can "hold" more power than their rating was a liar.  (Speakers don't "hold" power, they dissipate it as heat and sound.)  Speakers are rated for their maximum sustained power levels and you should not exceed them.  Your scraping sounds are probably the speakers being over-driven (or severe amplifier clipping) and you will soon fry something.  How are your speakers wired and what kind of enclosure are they in?

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They are in a sealed box with 2 seperate chambers(3 in each chamber). each chamber is 6ft^3 . I wired each pair to 2 ohms since they are all single 4 ohm subs. So i have 3 positive wires and 3 negative wires coming out of the back of the box. I twisted all the positive wires together and put them in one positive lead on the amp and i twisted the negative wires together and put them in one of the negetive leads on the amp. Is this still ok?

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

QFC stands for Q factor control according to an amp manual i pulled up. The only "Q Factor" i know of is something i learned in my EE classes is the ratio of energy stored in a resonant circuit to energy dissipated per radian.

AJRXtreme wrote:

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They are in a sealed box with 2 seperate chambers(3 in each chamber). each chamber is 6ft^3 . I wired each pair to 2 ohms since they are all single 4 ohm subs. So i have 3 positive wires and 3 negative wires coming out of the back of the box. I twisted all the positive wires together and put them in one positive lead on the amp and i twisted the negative wires together and put them in one of the negetive leads on the amp. Is this still ok?

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Ah... NO!  You are saying you have three 2-ohm loads in parallel at your amp.  This is a gross overload on that amp as it results in a net 0.666 ohm load.  No wonder your system is shutting down, and I guarantee it is clipping like mad.  Keep operating like that and you will destroy your speakers and might fry the amp too.  You need to re-wire for at least a net 2-ohm load.  With 6 speakers @ 4-ohms SVC, the best you can do is wire for a net 2.666 ohms by connecting all three subs in each chamber in parallel (resulting in 1.33 ohms) and then connecting these two sets in series to the amplifier (totalling 2.66 ohms.)  This is the best way to use the system you have.  Then you can properly set your gain control... and I assume you are using a low-pass filter on the amp or externally?

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godblessdremil wrote:

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QFC stands for Q factor control according to an amp manual i pulled up. The only "Q Factor" i know of is something i learned in my EE classes is the ratio of energy stored in a resonant circuit to energy dissipated per radian.

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Ah.  "Q-factor" in this case has to do with the electronic crossover.  It basically adjusts the rate of change at the peak of the crossover envelope, and in some cases the bandwidth of the filter.

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DYOHN thankyou sooo much!! I cant believe how much of an idiot i am! I had each 3 subs wired in series for a 1.34 ohm load and the other 3 also wired in series at 1.34 ohm load before i had my jbl amp on them and the whole time i thought that was a 1.34 ohm load on the amp. I didnt know that you added the ohmage together and thats what the amp was handling. So I should wire my speakers the old way then? for  2.666 ohm load on the amp. When you say to connect the 2 sets of wires to my amp in series, do you mean to connect the positives to the positive on the amp and the negatives to the negatives on the amp?

OK and about using a low pass crossover on my amp. Don't all mono amps have a low pass filter already built into them? Other than that i dont have any external crossovers on my system. Would this be a smart thing to buy? Please inform me on what else I can do to enhance the sound of my system. I also have a subsonic filter on my amp. I have this turned off because since my box is sealed i dont think my subs are going to go too low that they will blow. Is this ok that I have it turned off? Alright thats pretty mcuh all the questions I have. Thankyou everyone for your help, you guys just saved me $1,000+ because thats how much i spent on my amp and subs together. No warranties.

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Yes, you need to re-wire so that the three speakers in each chamber are in parallel, and then the two sets are in series with each other.  I did a little drawing that may help you.. And you need to activate the low-pass filter on your amp and set it to somewhere between 80 and 120Hz.

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I went ahead and wired my subs like i thought dyohn had told me, but it ended up being wired like this  ...[URL=https://imageshack.us][IMG]https://img284.imageshack.us/img284/7188/oldwiringdiagram0pm.png[/IMG][/URL]

I played my system for about a couple minutes last night and no wierd scratching noises happened at all. I went ahead and started my car this morning to pull it back out onto the driveway form the garage and the subs would play fine. I wanted to hear how my system sounded with the wall layed down flat facing up in the back. I then turned on the car and a wierd popping noise happened from the subs when the amp turned on and then the subs wouldnt work. Both red and green lights from the mojo amp were on. Everytime i turn on the car the popping noise happens once. I went ahead and wired my subs to how dyohn said on the picture he sent and still the pop noise happens whenever i turn on the car. If anyone could tell me what is goin on i would appreciate it, thankyou

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

https://img284.imageshack.us/img284/7188/oldwiringdiagram0pm.png <------- this is how i had my subs wired. What ohm load on the amp is this?

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

The wiring you show is 0.67 ohms.  You need to disconnect one - and one + from the speakers (one from each set as shown in my diagram) and connect these to each other and NOT to the amp.

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what could the popping noise be? I wired like you showed and the subs still arent playing

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

"Popping" is usually the sub bottoming out from over-power, or it could be severe clipping from the amp.  Does the amp turn on with nothing connected to it?  If you wired the subs properly and they do not play, something is fried.

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