Like tha title says...has anyone ever heard of the Push Pull Sub Configuration...? I read about it in this book and tried it for myself...it does seem louder but my only concern is that you have to reverse the polarity on one of the subs...
My question is will reversing the polarity on one of the subs hurt it...?
I have 2 Memphis subs..and i will be soon getting 2 Kicker CVRS which i will be wanting to do this to if it doesnt hurt them....thanks guys
I think this applies to setups with one sub inverted, or isobaric enclosures. If you were to do this in a sealed enclosure it would not work at all, especially in a comon chamber box.
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This is indeed called a compound isobaric enclosure. Waht reversing one of the subs leads does is change the polarity of that speaker. The idea here is to keep both cones moving the same direction at the same time. If you take two speakers and drastically slow down time so as to watch the cones moving easily, two cones moving the same direction are in phase and work together to produce bass. Two speaker wired out of phase work against each other, thus are out of phase and result in a loss of bass. This is based on the two subs being on the same mounting surface and pointed in the same direction. Now take sub and move it 180 degrees and put it infront of the other sub. Both cones that were once in phase are now pounding towards each other, thus out of phase. Reverse the one subs leads and now both subs are again moving in the same direction and in phase.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
It dosnt hurt the subs.However this sort of sub configuration usally results in a three decibel loss. Check out this link on the pros and cons of differtn enclosure types
https://www.caraudiohelp.com/custom_car_audio_boxes/custom_car_audio_boxes.htm
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Clarion DB36MP
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10"
Respone 800w Mono
ALPINE MRP-F250
*Custom fabrications*
forbidden it exactly on the money this is how the config of the setup works. so the subs don't cancel eachother out. in the result of lose of bass.
we use to use push and pull for the style and space saving. it was something new and looked cool if done right but like posted previously there are disadvantages that out weighed the advantages like you lost effiecenty. proformance was more important than looks and saving space. and eventually the config lost its popularty.there are a few different ways to designs these boxes. if you like it i feel you should diffently explore all angles and do the research. you will only gain knlodge not lose it. you've already built one and sounded better so either you did something right,got lucky or had a horrible box design before. good luck
i cant knock it because we setup some sick designs that looked top notch for the time and when done right sound top too.
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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs
Isobarik boxes were great 10+ years ago (no offence). Gotta remember.... a 10" took an average of 2cu feet sealed for a nice .707 box. If there was a way to somehow make Vas half as big...... and make the box handle more power..... oh, wait.... it is the Isobarik design. I too built several of those enclosures... a couple are probably still out there working.
The reason you lost 3db is that the MMS of the cone is essentially doubled, effectively reducing the nominal sensitivity of the woofer . The bonus was the power handling was increased, so the actual loss was somewhat negligable. You could really see some gains if it was a ported design.
Ahhh... memories....
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Thats very true, doubling the amplifer power bacuse of the increased power handelling would reclaim that 3dB loss
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Clarion DB36MP
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10"
Respone 800w Mono
ALPINE MRP-F250
*Custom fabrications*