Big 3 with computer?

This might be long, so i'll try to organize it so it's easily read.

VEHICLE:
2002 PT Cruiser (manual) 2.4L

PROBLEM:
I want to do the big 3 to my car, but the wire from the alternator seems to go into the computer.

According to the few posts I can find on the Big three they basically are something like this:
(1) battery negative to chassis.
(2) battery negative to engine (or engine to chassis) my car already was wired engine to battery negative so I just used that.
(3) alternator to battery positive.

I've read various things saying just upgrade the wires to the fuse box if it goes through there - or run an external fuse to the battery - something on the order of 200 to 300 amps (I'd personally start small)

I've done all the other wires, but curiously enough, the alternator wire seems to go to the car's computer... leaving me fairly dumbfounded as to whether I should go ahead and run a wire directly to the battery or not. 

any ideas?

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...Please enter any 11 digit prime number to continue.

you must be tracking one of the field wires for the alt.

the one you need  will have a ring terminal on the end of it and goes to the back of the alt. it stands alone only one wire about 10 - 8 gauge in thickness.

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

Well I just finished tracking the wire before I saw your reply. I tracked the right wire - the only thing bigger than like 18/20g wire. Unfortunately I've lost it somewhere in the loom.

The PT is packed in really tight - and I'm having a grand old time trying to find where it's going to. I assume it MUST go to the fuse box, but I can only see one mass of wires going in and out of the fusebox and none of the wireloom paths lead to the alternator!

I'm going to call it a night tonight and enjoy the newyears celebrations here with my family - and hit it up again tomorrow.

I hate to tear up the stock wire coverings - so i'm going to try to trace it otherwise.

OTHERWISE:

would there be any other issues with adding a fused 4g line to the alternator (additional one) even if I don't know exactly where the stock alternator to battery wire is run?

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...Please enter any 11 digit prime number to continue.

leave the factory wiring in place do not desturb it. follow the direction and just add another wire from the alt. to the battery. depending on the current draw of your amp and whole system use proper guage wire. 4 guage or thicker.

one thing though you said the wire you were chasing was 18 - 20 gauge that is a very small wire and is most definety the wrong one. like i said previously it should be some where in the size of 10 - 8 gauge.

-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

fingaz22 wrote:

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you said the wire you were chasing was 18 - 20 gauge that is a very small wire and is most definety the wrong one. like i said previously it should be some where in the size of 10 - 8 gauge.

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Sorry - I think you miss-read. I said I was tracking the right wire - the only wire that wasn't 18 to 20 gauge.  It's a single wire that appears to be about 8 gauge. 

Unfortunately when i looked where i thought the wire was going - into the computer - it was actually a bundle of smaller wires. So Somewhere in the loom I lost the wire i was tracking.

I just wanted to verify that there was no ill effects to adding that extra wire. no side note like... "it works except in a few cars with some strange wiring..." I was just curious because all the other cars I checked (f-150, Scion xB, Jeep Liberty) they all seem to be pretty straight forward from the alternator to the fuse box - the F-150 conveniently has a stock 4g wire running to the alternator.

anywho - thanks for the advice.

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...Please enter any 11 digit prime number to continue.

alright thats cool. just follow procedure and you'll be fine. on the inline fuse you will want to keep it in the range of your output amparge rating of the alt. remember the cars asseriores, engine and your add ons  will all get there power from the alt. so if you fuse to small when there is a peak of usage the fuse will pop. and vechile will die once the battery cant carry it no longer. depending on the battery could be 10 - 20 min. so evaluate you current draw(amparge) of all components in your car and fuse accordingly. good luck

-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs