Port Angle

2 questions...

a) Is it a bad idea to try to angle a port out of a box versus pointing it straight out? Ex:

I'm thinking as long as the port length is correct this won't really matter, but i'm just curious, i guess.

b.) Would it even be worth it to try to angle it like this or is it gonna sound the same either way?

The reason i ask is that i think i might try to build a box (FG) for my JL Audio 10W3. Since it's only a 10" and  it'll be in the trunk (Maxima), i was thinking that i might try to port it through the rear deck to maybe get a bit more sound out of it...

I tried to draw something up to illustrate, but i'm obviously retarded with Microsoft Paint.

Anyone think i'm just wasting my time, or does it sound like a decent idea?

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1995 Maxima
-n8

Shouldn't that sub be used in a sealed box?  It seems to me that trying to use it in a vented application will result in having to use an unusually long port length, or an extremely large box.  You should be adding cone area and power to the sub problem instead of what you are suggesting.

The port functions at the tuning frequency, or I should say it's function is centered at the tuning freq.  Extending a port into the cabin isn't going to provide a louder subwoofer sound, it's just going to provide the box sound at Fb.  You should build the box that is best suited for that sub, and if you want it louder you should add another sub and more power.  If this sub truly does work well in a vented box you should build it to the best specs possible which means the port should be squared to the box and opening out on the face along with the driver.

Here is an illustration taken from the WinISD help section that shows the port's function:

 

You see that on each end of the actual port tube there is a space of air that is called an "extension".  These extensions are part of the port's function, too, and the entire length is the actual acoustical port.  I don't know that cutting the ends at a sharp angle will not interfere with the tuning.  I haven't experimented with doing it myself.

You should, or could, figure out a way to make an opening between the cabin and trunk so that the complete sub sound will more easily get through to the cabin and sound louder.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

The owners manual for the 10w3 gives recommendations for both sealed and ported enclosures, or else i wouldn't have considered it. The box it suggests is only one cubic foot, but it suggests using a slot port, and yes- it is pretty long. i kinda figured, though, that (using the port length calculator) i could just make a round one, which it seems could be a shorter alternative.

The main reason i'm going with just the one ten is that a friend of mine sold it to me (broke up with girlfriend and took it back) for only $100. It's a practically brand new JL 10w3 and JL 250/1. I think i just want  something that'll give good balance. I'm also planning on getting a pair of Alpine SPR-17LPs for the back and SPR-17LSs for the front, powered by an Alpine MRP-F240 (360x2) amp. I'm not planning on winning contests, i just want something that sounds nice.

I guess i hadn't thought about the *complete sub sound* aspect of it, but it makes sense. Good thing i asked. I'll try to figure out something else. i won't end up doing it until i have all the other speakers, too. Then I'll just do it all at once.

What do you think about a "truck style" center console enclosure- inside the cab, except like at the back of the center console between the rear of the front seats? that way i wouldn't have to worry about ports. the girl whose car it came out of had a hatch back, and it sounded great inside there...

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1995 Maxima
-n8