JBL Amp vs JL Amp
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=70963
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 8:49 AM
Topic: JBL Amp vs JL Amp
Posted By: image
Subject: JBL Amp vs JL Amp
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 10:39 AM
If you were running MTX 9500's.. Specs
Which amp would you chose?
2 JBL 1200.1's?? Specs
or
1 JL AUDIO 1000/1??? Specs
Gimme some good feedback guys on watcha think please.
Replies:
Posted By: youngone
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 11:08 AM
i would go with the 2 jbls.
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Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend
On the12volt you give some info and you get in
Posted By: oxygen65
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 3:14 PM
well you are comparing 2 amps that have diffrent power ratings, the jbl's are gonna have more power but not by much you are talking about 200 more rms wattage. the thing that you have to take in to consideration is that the jbl's are 1200 watts at your normal operating voltage, 14.4, what happends when you crank ur system up and your voltage drops to 12 or 11 volts? you loose power from your jbl amps, were is say the jl has r.i.p.s. technology in it that makes the amp put out 1000 watts rms at any voltage between 11 and 14 volts. so consider the extra 200 watts rms you are going to get on paper and take it and actually put it in your car and then both amps have about equal power when they are being used, its no contest the jl wins by far. the only drawback to the jl amp that i can see in this comparison is that the jl is going to cost more than the jbl's cuz i found the jbls for 299 off sounddamain and im sure you can get them cheaper but then you might want to figure in the extra wire you are gonna have to buy and a distributor block. its up to you how you want to do it but in my opionion the jl amp is a much better choice.
Posted By: kirktcashalini
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 4:21 PM
you get what you pay for. i know someone with a 1000/1 which he runs at 4 ohms. kicks some serious ass  . ------------- 99 Blazer LT. Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)
Posted By: image
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 4:50 PM
True that. I already have the 1200.1 amps at my house. But i just wanted to go with a company that has better technology. If you get what i mean.. you get what you pay for.
Posted By: fozzz
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 5:05 PM
Better technology? I don't think the technology differences between the amps is much if anything. JBL is a much bigger company then JL. They are both good amps and I dont really think you will notice much difference between them. So I would choose the amp that fits your budget and install the best.
Posted By: image
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 5:14 PM
If im already running a 450/4 for my speakers... I better just go with the 100/1.. but will this amp push those 9500's to its potential guys? I know JL is way underrated right?
Posted By: kirktcashalini
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 6:04 PM
i dont know if it will push them to potential, but it will problable drive you to hearing loss if thats good enough. umm. and also you will get 1000+RMS watts and not have to run it at 1 ohm, which kicks ass, having so much power at 4 ohms. I have 600RMS @ 4 ohms with my Phoenix gold amp (couldnt afford the JL) and i am insanely satisfied with it. dont know how the PG amps stack up with all you high end guys, but i absolutly love it and will definatly do anothe in te future, and suggest them to my friends all the time, let them hear my system. which also brings me to my next point, PG makes a 1200RMS watt amp, like the JL it is stable in the output regardless of the ohm load. the 1200.1 has 2 4 gauge connects for + and ground. and looks nice. i dont know if youd be interested in one of them, but they definatly are great, and are available pretty reasonably.
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99 Blazer LT. Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)
Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 6:55 PM
How many MTX 9500s are you actually going to be using?
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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.
Posted By: image
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 7:56 PM
Two 9500's
Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 8:12 PM
Dual 4 ohm or single 4 ohm? 15, 12, or 10 inch?
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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.
Posted By: downstarinc
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 9:09 PM
sounds like your gonna need 2 amps...the 1000/1 is my choice of amp (i own 2) but its not gonna push 2 9500's to their potental..ide go with 1 1000/1 on each sub...and i really dont think jbl is even in the same game, nor on the same level as jl...its like comparing dual to alpine.
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jl audio..nuff said
Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 9:21 PM
I wouldn't go as far as the dual comparison, but downstarinc is right about needing two amps. 1 wont be enough power.
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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.
Posted By: image
Date Posted: January 17, 2006 at 10:52 PM
Well i guess i will just stick with the 2 JBL 1200.1's. Does anyone have any other reccomendations besides the JL 100/1?
Posted By: oxygen65
Date Posted: January 18, 2006 at 3:16 PM
thats a horible idea sticking with the jbl's becuse compared to a jl amp they suck but i guess if you are gonna spend all ur money on the subs then who cares just power its with whatever amp you can find, heres an idea why dont you take the money you will save from buying the jbl's or the jl and buy a 3rd 9500 and get some pyle amps to run them off of.
Posted By: ddsubman
Date Posted: January 18, 2006 at 3:37 PM
image] wrote:
ell i guess i will just stick with the 2 JBL 1200.1's. Does anyone have any other reccomendations besides the JL 100/1?
1 Crossfire VR2000d would run those subs nicely. But if you already have 2 JBL 1200.1s' I would run those. I don't know where people get such bad impressions about JBL. They have come a long way in the last few years. I guess some people just like paying for a mainstream "name brand" amp. I've had JL amps before, and compared to the JBL amps I've also had, they are nothing to " write home" about. With a good power supply, nicely tuned box, and the correct crossover/gain settings, I think you'll be more than happy with the JBLs' . Thats' just my 2 cents, but what the hell do I know anyway? ------------- Gettin' deafer by the day.......96' GMC yukon-Eclipse CD 5442HU
MA Audio HK4000D-Digital Designs 9515F
150+db with one woofer...DD rules!!!!
Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: January 18, 2006 at 5:56 PM
I agree. JBL amps are perfectly capable.
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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.
Posted By: 94yj
Date Posted: January 18, 2006 at 6:40 PM
in my opinion the circuitry the the slash series amps from jl is far advanced from ne other unit on the market. NOTHING COMPARES
Posted By: ddsubman
Date Posted: January 18, 2006 at 7:11 PM
94yj]i wrote:
my opinion the circuitry the the slash series amps from jl is far advanced from ne other unit on the market. NOTHING COMPARES
Have you ever seen the inside of a JBL 6000GTI amp? Or a Digital Designs Z1 amp? If you haven't, I suggest you check them out. It might make you think twice before buying another JL amp. ------------- Gettin' deafer by the day.......96' GMC yukon-Eclipse CD 5442HU
MA Audio HK4000D-Digital Designs 9515F
150+db with one woofer...DD rules!!!!
Posted By: wrathchild281
Date Posted: January 18, 2006 at 10:50 PM
hey where are you guys finding the jbl amp online? is there any online sites still selling that amp.
Posted By: oxygen65
Date Posted: January 19, 2006 at 12:49 AM
i think that jl makes the most advanced amps too, there is only 1 other amp that i kno of that puts out a consistant load at 1.5ohm or 4ohm and that is the jbl gti amps, but in my opinion the jl is still going to be better for the simple fact that the R.I.P.S. technology allows the jl amp to put out 1000 rms watts at a lower voltage level.
Posted By: downstarinc
Date Posted: January 19, 2006 at 1:47 AM
my 1000/1 R.I.P.S!
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jl audio..nuff said
Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: January 19, 2006 at 1:11 PM
Just a question. How many of you guys have run both of these amps in your cars? Or how many of you are dealers that sell both? If it's "C" none of the above I would question the validity of your opinions.
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There is no such thing as free installation!
Posted By: kirktcashalini
Date Posted: January 19, 2006 at 2:31 PM
my phoenix gold puts out steady wattage from 1 to 4 ohms, kicks serious ass. i love it, i run a 4 ohm load and get 600RMS, the same it would put out at 1 ohm. but i get virtually no distortion. It is the Xenon series. they also have a 1200RMS mono block. check them out.
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99 Blazer LT. Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)
Posted By: ragoal12
Date Posted: January 19, 2006 at 2:45 PM
i do have first had expierence with the jl 1000/1 and 300/4's... jl amps are way better than the jbl.. and its mainly to do controls.. the low pass filter on the jbl is no where near as good as the jl.... the jl amps do tend to be a lil vottage hungry nothing an ho alt won't cure and at least u got good clean power.. although with this kid running mtx subs.. clearity won't be an issue because 2 9500s will sound dirty no matter what.. but if he had some w7's then jl all the way... the two setups that i have familiarity with r a 1000/1 and 2 10inch w7's.. the other a 1000/1 and one 13.5 w7.. which is just ridiculous.. both in the 150 dB range.. plenty loud for street cars.. ------------- S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska
Posted By: Paradigm
Date Posted: January 20, 2006 at 2:37 PM
ragoal12 wrote:
i do have first had expierence with the jl 1000/1 and 300/4's... jl amps are way better than the jbl.. and its mainly to do controls.. the low pass filter on the jbl is no where near as good as the jl.... the jl amps do tend to be a lil vottage hungry nothing an ho alt won't cure and at least u got good clean power.. although with this kid running mtx subs.. clearity won't be an issue because 2 9500s will sound dirty no matter what.. but if he had some w7's then jl all the way... the two setups that i have familiarity with r a 1000/1 and 2 10inch w7's.. the other a 1000/1 and one 13.5 w7.. which is just ridiculous.. both in the 150 dB range.. plenty loud for street cars..
Don't you mean current? A high output alternator gives you more current (amperage); the voltage does not change. Someone correct me if I'm wrong  ------------- VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2
Posted By: radioactiveaudi
Date Posted: January 20, 2006 at 4:13 PM
Take a look at Zapco.
The best amps on the market!!
Posted By: radioactiveaudi
Date Posted: January 20, 2006 at 4:14 PM
Take a look at Zapco.
The best amps on the market!!
Posted By: ragoal12
Date Posted: January 21, 2006 at 9:42 AM
Paradigm wrote:
ragoal12 wrote:
i do have first had expierence with the jl 1000/1 and 300/4's... jl amps are way better than the jbl.. and its mainly to do controls.. the low pass filter on the jbl is no where near as good as the jl.... the jl amps do tend to be a lil vottage hungry nothing an ho alt won't cure and at least u got good clean power.. although with this kid running mtx subs.. clearity won't be an issue because 2 9500s will sound dirty no matter what.. but if he had some w7's then jl all the way... the two setups that i have familiarity with r a 1000/1 and 2 10inch w7's.. the other a 1000/1 and one 13.5 w7.. which is just ridiculous.. both in the 150 dB range.. plenty loud for street cars..
Don't you mean current? A high output alternator gives you more current (amperage); the voltage does not change. Someone correct me if I'm wrong
well u are right an ho provides more current to counteract voltage drop this is what i was refering to when i said voltage hungry.. i should have said power hungry technically speaking.. but if u can't understand this and ur dealing with car audio u should just stop.... so if you hook up lets say a 1000/1 on a stock alt. the voltage will change during high output periods... this is known ass voltage drop.. correct me if im worng please... ------------- S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska
Posted By: Paradigm
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 8:58 AM
ragoal12 wrote:
Paradigm wrote:
ragoal12 wrote:
i do have first had expierence with the jl 1000/1 and 300/4's... jl amps are way better than the jbl.. and its mainly to do controls.. the low pass filter on the jbl is no where near as good as the jl.... the jl amps do tend to be a lil vottage hungry nothing an ho alt won't cure and at least u got good clean power.. although with this kid running mtx subs.. clearity won't be an issue because 2 9500s will sound dirty no matter what.. but if he had some w7's then jl all the way... the two setups that i have familiarity with r a 1000/1 and 2 10inch w7's.. the other a 1000/1 and one 13.5 w7.. which is just ridiculous.. both in the 150 dB range.. plenty loud for street cars..
Don't you mean current? A high output alternator gives you more current (amperage); the voltage does not change. Someone correct me if I'm wrong
well u are right an ho provides more current to counteract voltage drop this is what i was refering to when i said voltage hungry.. i should have said power hungry technically speaking.. but if u can't understand this and ur dealing with car audio u should just stop.... so if you hook up lets say a 1000/1 on a stock alt. the voltage will change during high output periods... this is known ass voltage drop.. correct me if im worng please...
Actually, if you want to be snide about it, you said "vottage hungry." That has absolutely no meaning to anyone on this forum. But what do I know? I should just stop right now according to you... Anyway, my intent of posting the first time was not to flame anyone, just to try to make sure the info being presented was correct. I certainly don't know everything about car audio, nor do I pretend to. Although you did say I was correct (even though I wasn't totally correct per se)... ------------- VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2
Posted By: drvnbysound
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 9:42 AM
What I think is most odd, is that you are using some of the largest MTX subs (argueably some of the best on the market), and didnt even consider using matching MTX amplifiers??
All biasing aside, unless you have a ton of current at your disposal (ie. H.O. alternator and multiple batteries), your amplifiers are never going to see the current needed to create 1000+W RMS of power. If your stock alternator is rated to output 70A, at 13.8V that gives you a TOTAL of 966W for your entire CAR! Once you have your lights on, AC, etc, that number will be split into each of these loads and decrease the possible power output of your amplifier.
As far as JL vs. JBL, both make great amplifiers. However you will get varying responses because they do use different technologies and are obviously very different companies.
JL is largely respected because of their past and current success in the SQ/SPL lanes. Their products put up numbers and have helped probably thousands of consumers bring home trophies. After doing so, many following customers respect what they have achieved and continue to purchase their products. Not that they dont make great products, because they do, but at times it almost seems like a status thing.. "I HAVE JL."
JBL (actually Harmon International) is a FAR LARGER company, and builds some of the HIGHEST END home and professional audio equipment. JBL, for whatever reason has never gotten that status. (I feel they have the products to do so (A6000GTI and W15GTI), but its the lack of LARGE customer base that spends $$$$$ buying their products and running to the lanes with them.)
... I guess I didnt do much for answering your question, but maybe some of this information will be considered and atleast its out there to be known. Good luck with your system!
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Posted By: Paradigm
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 9:48 AM
And now, after having done a little research on the Basic Car Audio Electronics website and a few other places, here is what I have found: Using values of 4AWG wire, 20 ft. run of wire, at 1000W, with 75% eff. (for a class D amp), and a system voltage of 13.8, I got a voltage drop of .483 volts. IF I've entered the info correctly and IF I understand this calculator to depict what ragoal12 is getting at, that seems rather negligible to me. Even using a value of 12 volts for system voltage, it gives a message that says, "There will be more than a 1/2 volt drop in your power wire at full power. Use a larger gauge wire." The 1000/1 specifically asks that the user use 4AWG wire and a 100A fuse on the line. Using a shorter wire run also reduces the voltage drop. So, can someone enlighten me some more? I'm sure I'm missing something here... ------------- VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2
Posted By: ragoal12
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 10:35 PM
paradigm does that have anything to do with the question that was originally asked??? cause ur attempt at flaming me isn't working... chill out man.. i was simply saying that both voltage hungry and power hungry r commonly referred to as the same thing... now u say that u have 1000/1 do u run 4 AWG wire? because the systems that i've dealt with originally had it and there was considerable amout more voltage drop... like 2 or 3 volts.... and its occured in more than one system ------------- S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska
Posted By: drvnbysound
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 11:56 PM
Unless you are using some really horrid material as a conductor (ie. wire) you should not be able to accurately measure any voltage drop at the load connection due to the size of wire used. However, water (current) will flow faster through a 2" pipe, than it will a straw. Current and voltage ARE DIFFERENT.
I am unsure of who "commonly refers" to power and voltage hungry as the same thing, but I can certainly state they are not engineers because they are different things.
A load (amplifier + subwoofer) may require more current than a given source (battery + alternator) is capable of supplying, which will cause a voltage drop to occur.
However, I assume by "power hungry" you are refering to the amplifiers "need" for current, and the charging systems inability to provide the required amount resulting in voltage drops. If so, this case occurs because the amount of amplification desired in a vehicle not prepared or capable of supplying the amplifier with enough current to then supply the subwoofer the power it draws.
I would assume, by "voltage hungry" you are referring to the voltage drop due to the insufficient source. As the voltage drop increases, an amplifier is deemed more "voltage hungry"?
All of this can be settled by simple ohms law (funny how many people forget, that principles of electronics were developed MANY years ago and are still and will remain applicapable in todays devices). Rule to remember... POWER IN = POWER OUT - POWER LOSSES!! The amount of power OUT from your amplifier, is determined by the amount of power (voltage and current) that it is given (the power from the battery and alternator minus the power the car itself uses). Furthermore, Power = Voltage * Current. The available power out of your amplifier is determined by the voltage and current input. If you test the voltage of your battery while the car is running, (ie. 13.8V) and know that your vehicles alternator is rated at (100Amperes), the MAXIMUM RMS power output of your amplifier is 1380W. This value is valid before any current losses are considered (lights, AC, etc.) If your headlights bulbs are rated at 40W each, this results in (I=40W/13.8V = 3A draw per bulb), and so on with each load in the car. If you were able to successfully find the current draw of your vehicle's average current consumption, subtract it from the current output of the alternator, this will leave you with the reserve or additional current available to supply additional loads (ie. If you have 20A of reserve current @ 13.8V, results in 276W RMS).
These values assume 100% efficiency of your amplifiers,(ie. if your vehicle has 20A reserve at 13.8V, and your amp is 87% efficient, you will actually get about 240W RMS output to your subwoofer) and do not account for peak current supplies (as may be available from your battery).
When you connect (5) 1200W RMS amps to a car that has 20A of reserve current, you will still only be capable of an output of 276W RMS.
ANALOGY: You turn your sink faucet on all the way and it takes 20 seconds for your sink to fill up. If you split the output of the faucet into 5 hoses all draining into the sink, how long will it take the sink to fill up? If you answer 20 seconds, you are getting the idea. The water that runs out of all the hoses combined will still remain the same, because of restraints of water pressure at the supply, and piping sizes in the house (ie. all source issues).
Hopefully someone is paying attention! :-D
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Posted By: Paradigm
Date Posted: January 24, 2006 at 8:55 AM
ragoal12 wrote:
paradigm does that have anything to do with the question that was originally asked??? cause ur attempt at flaming me isn't working... chill out man.. i was simply saying that both voltage hungry and power hungry r commonly referred to as the same thing... now u say that u have 1000/1 do u run 4 AWG wire? because the systems that i've dealt with originally had it and there was considerable amout more voltage drop... like 2 or 3 volts.... and its occured in more than one system
Maybe in your neck of the woods this is true. However, I've never heard of this from anyone else on this board or otherwise, and I would hazard a guess as to say that voltage hungry and power hungry are, in fact, NOT the same thing. Again, unless someone can tell me (and prove) otherwise, I will accept this as fact. I found this on another forum, "Remember that power is voltage x amperage, and the amperage depends on the impedance. If the impedance is high, it takes more voltage to double the power than if the impedance is low, because less current flows at low impedance with the same voltage." Just thought I'd throw that in there for whatever reason. Yes, I do have a 1000/1 (as shown in my sig), and yes, I do run a 4AWG wire from the distro block to the amp. My main wire is 1/0AWG. Probably overkill, but it does the trick and I know that I am better safe than sorry. And as I pointed out, if you calculate voltage drop, the results are negligible. Are these real world numbers? Probably not, since other factors are not accounted for in the calculations. But the audio system, by itself, should match pretty close to the calcs. Alternators are rated in amperes. When someone asks the question whether they need a high output alternator, almost every single time, the answer will be based upon how many amps are required to operate the system adequately and what amp rating the alt should have. NOT on what the voltage drop will be or how voltage hungry the system is. This may, in fact, be a good side discussion to the original poster's question, as he may need to account for some of these things. A little extra knowledge never hurts  . But I caution that knowledge presented should be correct, and if not, someone should have the courage to set things right. And there are a number of us that will do just that. Paradigm wrote:
Anyway, my intent of posting the first time was...just to try to make sure the info being presented was correct.
My guess is you don't like to be corrected. Sorry, I just was trying to understand what you were saying. I'm calm, my heart rate hasn't risen, and the world is still here, with me and you in it. Let's try to get along, shall we?  ------------- VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: January 24, 2006 at 11:49 AM
Just for the sake of public service, what follows is basically all that this thread's author is asking. Maybe it can get back on track now. image] wrote:
f you were running MTX 9500's.. Specs
Which amp would you chose?
2 JBL 1200.1's?? Specs
or
1 JL AUDIO 1000/1??? Specs
Gimme some good feedback guys on watcha think please...........Well i guess i will just stick with the 2 JBL 1200.1's. Does anyone have any other reccomendations besides the JL 100/1?
Now I may be mistaken, but I don't think he meant an in-depth review of Ohm's Law and such related matters when he asked "Gimme some good feedback guys on watcha think please."
------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: Paradigm
Date Posted: January 24, 2006 at 12:38 PM
Not back on topic!!! Please!!!! I only have experience with the JL Audio 1000/1, so I can only give my opinion on it, along with what I have already posted. It is a fantastic amp, but it will cost you quite a bit, even if you manage to find it at a discount from the Internet or from a dealer. I paid about $750 new from an authorized dealer. I have no complaints - it is probably more amp (other than wattage) than I will ever need. ------------- VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2
Posted By: downstarinc
Date Posted: January 24, 2006 at 11:52 PM
without gettin all mecp on you, i would have to say that the jl amp has many +'s to it, regulated power supply, 11-14v same watts, 1.5-4 ohm 1000watts,plus they do put out more than 1000watts(ive got about 1200). they havent given me any problems except for ringing ears. i think this amp is overall a better amp. the jl amp is a much nicer looking amp. so to answer your question, go with the jl amp.
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jl audio..nuff said
Posted By: ragoal12
Date Posted: January 25, 2006 at 12:00 AM
well thank you for correcting me guys but as drvnbysound stated either way the source is ineffiecent... and this has been a common thing when using jl 1000/1 amps... so now that you guys gave me a lecture that i had about 3 years ago in electrical class it was a great refresher!!!!! i think i may have had to much mechanical engineering classes the last few semesters... but remember sometimes things in the real world don't act the same compared to how they are modeled from an engineering stand point... that is why i stated that there probably would be a bigger voltage drop than .5 volts is all...
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S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska
Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: January 25, 2006 at 11:28 AM
Here's an idea, grab an Alpine M-1005, switch the display to voltage, wind it up and see what the drop is in voltage. Let me know who is right.
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There is no such thing as free installation!
Posted By: holty
Date Posted: January 25, 2006 at 2:32 PM
just want to add my opinion. i'm using a 300/4, a 500/1, and a 1000/1. I'm very happy with my JL amps, i cannot compare to JBL amps, as i've never owned them and don't know anyone that has either. ------------- Holty
'03 Chevy Silverado SS
'04 Nissan Maxima SL
Posted By: fuseblower
Date Posted: January 25, 2006 at 4:57 PM
Are you really stuck on JL or JBL amps. For the money I would go with the JBL but that's a personal preference. if you are looking at other amps look into earthquake and usamps, that is if you are willing to dish out MSRP money on the JL. I know that both amps are rarely talked about but that's because they are not cheap. But you will definitely get the bang for you dollar. And because of the design of some of the the USAMPs you can alter the rail voltage and make a really nasty amp.
Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: January 25, 2006 at 5:54 PM
image] wrote:
f you were running MTX 9500's.. Specs
Which amp would you chose?
2 JBL 1200.1's?? Specs
or
1 JL AUDIO 1000/1??? Specs
Gimme some good feedback guys on watcha think please.
cliffnotes: (from what I've read/heard/experienced) The JL is a much nicer amp but will not put out as much power as two JBL 1200.1s. Either amp would work fine, but if you want the most watts for your dollar get the two JBL amps.
Posted By: 96bigdogg
Date Posted: January 25, 2006 at 6:29 PM
id use the jl audio 1000/1 thats what im using & ive had good luck with it & it hits
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hard hittin big dogg
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