amp failure due to mount sub box kinda?

Here is how my box was built.

-XXXXX--OOOO--XXXXX-
               l        l
               l        l
               l        l
               ------

That the top view of it. the sub is mounted where the O's are and X's are where my two amps are. The whole box was built from 3/4" MDF and where the amps are that's all there is, there's nothing behind it, just a single piece of 3/4" MDF. Now I'm a little worried after reading over at www.bcae1.com that it really isn't a good idea to mount the amp to the sub box but in this case I'm not really mounting it directly on it, but more towards the side. So I wouldn't think it would flex that much to cause damage to my amps. However when I did play at moderate to high volumes, the sides where the amps are located are kinda vibrating a little. Should I be worried about my amp mount locations?

Did your amps fail, or are you just worried about it?

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nope, just a little concerned about it.

You can stop worrying as long as there is no problems with performance. Now turn up the volume and JAMOUT!

^heh alright coo. just makin sure :)

If you have the room, you should really try to put some bracing behind the amps to minimize the vibrations from the sub thumping. Although not really mounted "to the box," the vibrations are still going to travel through the mdf to both of your amps. And you've basically already told us that the board does vibrate. It never hurts to go overboard with bracing than leaving it to chance and hoping something doesn't go wrong. Today you may be okay, but what about tomorrow???

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VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2

^thats true.  I can always scrap some wood blocks and put it behind the mounting points of the amps.

But the thing is I don't see how bracing behind it will help in my situation. The way the amps are mounted are like what i stated above. basically just on a flat piece of 3/4" MDF but all that is attached to the 1.0cF box(sealed) in the middle of the board. So there's nothing behind those amps but 3/4" MDF. if i add wood blocks behind the mounting points of the amps and attach that to 3/4" MDF thus creating kind of a raised amp. Won't it still vibrate?

This should be what you are looking to do, if I understand your configuration. The bracing will keep the "ears" that the amps are mounted on from vibrating too much, and will do more good than any harm. Hope this helps.

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VEHICLE: 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2
Alpine CDA-7940
AudioControl EQT x2
JL Audio 1000/1
JL Audio 10W6 (originals) x3
Kicker ZR120
Kicker ZR460
Polk GXR-6 x4
Polk GXR-4 x2

Sit in your car, do you feel the vibration? Is that vibration not affecting everything in the car or according to the BCAE site, does it only affect a amp when it is mounted on the box. Personally, I call BS. I have never ever had a amp fail when mounted to a box due to vibrations in the 20 years I have been installing. I have however had 2 amps fail multiple times when not mounted to the box due to vibrations. Xtant X1001 and X604 both had their caps break off of the circuit board do to the output of the drivers. There mount was a length of 3/4" mdf. In this case it was the angle that the amps were mounted on coupled with the shock wave of the subs that did them in.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

yeah, I am by no means at forbidden's level of installations, but of the couple i have done, that have gone some up to 4ish years. Never a problem mounting a amp to a box... Its going to take a hell of a lot of rattling to make a box rattle that much. and as opposed to mounting them to the floor of the car, or back seats or anything. I wold imagine those vibrate more than the box. because when you sit in your front seat you can feel it vibrate. so the backs must as well. Id not worry.

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99 Blazer LT.   Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)

I would call it 'energy transfer' instead of 'vibration'.  Riding the chassis of the auto is a lot smoother on the components inside the amp than if it's mounted securely to a pounding sub box.  Both are vibrations, but the term encompasses a very wide range.  All that energy goes directly through the amplifier, and it's that type of "vibration" that will loosen a component from its glue, break a lead or crack a circuit board.  I say isolate the amplifier as well as you can (meaning, keep it off the sub box to start with).

That is, if it's your amp.  If it's somebody else's don't worry about it.   ;)

Just another opinion, and you know what they say about opinions...

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

if your not having problems you probably will not however. if you want to disapaite the vibration a little more to the entire car if you can Take 1 or 2 bolts and bolt the box to the chassis.

Pros-
Rattling in a specific area can be decreased.
Cant steel your box.
And vibration is transfered thought car better.

Cons
May not help your situation if your having a problem
drilled holes will later have to be siliconed and or welded closed. if you decide to remove item.

My situation.

2 13w7's Fiberglass box. ported through back deck. Hit so hard that i blew out the back glass. (pre bolted)

Bolted box to the chasis. using three bolts.
outcome Dash panels shake less. Sound is better. I use system at a higher volume and glass does not feel as much vibration as it did. hence not breaking.
Now i know its the presure that does the glass breaking but over all doing this little thing change alot. But forget about the glass IT stops rattling the trunk lid by as much as 30 percent to the situation that i have to really be jamming to get anoyying sound from trunk rattle.

I am just going on personal experience Not saying what to do. I know this is way off the subject of your amps being affected but it is a possible solution besides side supports as listed from another person.

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Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.

^Alright, well I'll have to think of something. Thank's for the ideas. So far I haven't had any problems. I'm just scared of something happening to the amps from the vibration. I'll have to figure out a way to bolt the ends of the box the chassis of the car. I also just realized you are in Coral Springs. I live in Coconut Creek. Maybe you can help me out hehe.