Its been a bit of time since I have done a complete stereo system in one of my own vehicles - and I thought I would ask for some opinions.
First-off: The vehicle in question is a 2004 Ford Mustang convertible...
The car has the 'Mach 460' sound system, and from all indications/research I've done - there is no 'good way to incorporate any of the factory equipment or wiring into a new build system - so I need to rewire the entire car and replace head unit, amps and speakers.
I already have some equipment from previous installations, and would like to keep the cost of anything new that I need to buy to less than $2000. The wife will also make my life a lot more pleasant if I don't spend a ton of $$$'s. I also get a discount on KICKER gear - so I would like to use that if possible - so...the $2500 that I am trying to keep as my $$$ ceiling is factoring KICER msrp.
I will be completing the installation myself - so install $$$'s and custom enclosure building will not be a problem and/or cost factor.
Now...what I am looking to accomplish:
I'm an not looking to do some crazy high-end system on a budget. I have done stereo competition before (SQL), and I am not looking to do that again. I just want a nice set-up that I can enjoy, and get better performance than I have from my factory set-up. A bit of 'bump' would be nice as my music interests range from Nickelback to Harry Connick to Young Jeezy to LL Cool J.
The equipment I have currently:
I have an Eclipse AV3423 head unit - it's the 7" flip-out monitor that plays DVD's, CD's & Mp3's...all the fun stuff. I have already gotten the dash kit specific to my vehicle and have verified tht the HU will work in this application. NOTE - if you have a newer Mustang (2k4 body style) and want to put a flip-out monitor in the dash - be aware that the mounting kit will have to be modified so that the kit is insalled upside-down...this allows the monitor to open to an adequate viewing angle - if you install it per the included directions...the monior will most likely not be viewable.
I also have a SoundStream Reference 405s amplifier...5 channel. Those of you that are going to be able to give educated replies prolly aready know the specs...so I will not bother.
Additionally, I have an old (really old) SoundStream Class A '50'. I don't really think i'll be using it...I just figured I'd mention it because it's a killer amp. Increibly effecient, small...and will handle like any load you can throw at it.
My thoughts for the new system is this...
Eclipse HU
4ga power & groud from battery to trunk
Maxi-Fuse set-up in engine bay and trunk
1 Farad Cap
Kicker - KQ30: 30-band EQ
SoundStream 405s amplifier
Kicker - RS 5 1/4 components (front)
Kicker - RS 6 1/2 components (rear)
Kicker - L7 12" sub (dual VC @ 4 ohm)
- - Wired for 2 ohm load on 405 sub channel.
DynaMat (or equiv. on doors and trunk bottom.
Questions that I have are:
- Will the 405 (sub channel) @ 2 ohms give enough juice to drive the L7? I ran 2 Kicker comps in a coupe before...but never did a system in a drop-top. Kicker also offers the L7 in a 2 ohm DVC model...but I need to research whether the 405 will be stable @ 1 ohm.
- Is there any reason to spend the extra $$$'s on the Kicker SS series components? I think I could justify the cost if I were putting them in my wifes Acura...but not in a convertible where there is so much noise to deal with.
- Will getting a line driver make any difference? Again, being that I am doing all of this work in a drop-top....should I even bother with it? Output voltage on the HU is not all that impressive.
- Would a better idea be to forgo the sub and get another set of components? If so, I could run mid-bass drivers in the front doors (mono), a component set-up in the rear....and a set of components in the kick panels.
What are your thoughts?
And thanks in advance for the input.
B
No the 405S (you need to sell me that amp btw) will not drive the L7 to the levels it was designed for. Overall the L7 is a great sub for a SPL based system, but for tonal response it will have it's butt handed to it. As much as you like Kicker, I think that you need to consider other options for a tonally accurate system. A deal is only as good as the product.
The AV3423 does not have a level control on the sub out and you are correct that the output levels, while they are 3 volt could be far better. Use the Audio Control 6XS in this situation as it is a crossover, sub level controller (included) + a 3 in 3 out high voltage line driver. This will bring new life and control to your system that without it will do no justice.
In a convertable the first sound you will lose with the top down is your top end. I would instantly go to MB Quart speakers for a car like this as they use a pure titanium tweeter that plays to a stinking high output level, has amazing tonal response, plays off axis and will not get lost to wind noise. Use Reference - Premium or Q-Line of components for this application. For the rear (sell me the Soundstream amp) speakers, keep it simple, a good coax from the Discus line or a Reference pointsource will work great. All speakers sizes should be a factory 5x7" which means that a oversize 6.5" midbass driver will fit with a basic baffle board.
For a sub, choose something that is either 2 single voice coil 10" drivers or one single 10" dvc driver. A ported enclosure might be best for this. The most surprising (sell me the Soundstream amp) sub I have come across for this application is the MB Quart RWE254 in a 1.25 cu.ft. slot port enclosure.
Your amp as great as it is, is by no means a powerhouse. It will be your weak link but attack the system with a wait and see approach. I know that if you tackle the install properly (use sound deadening + proper wiring etc) you will have a highly predicatable outcome in the end.
A larger 5 channel amp may be in the picture for you (sell me the Soundstream), consider the Eclipse PA5532, Crossfire VR705D and beleive it or not Planet Audio had a monster 5 channel amp that I worked with that totally amazed me. Need more info, post up the questions.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Thanks for the feedback 'forbidden'...
Shoot me an e-mail to ninedeucenine@yahoo.com - and we can discuss the fate of my 405...
I was questioning whether it would work...and have done some research prior to reading your reply that had answered that question.
Given the fact that i have to look for a new amp - I may just get some components and run the speakers off of the Eclipse HU - it has a pretty good internal amplifier...and just worry about the sub-woofer set-up later.
I checked on some other options and I am not sure I want to front the $$$'s at this point for all the stuff - and lose all of the little trunk space that I have.
BTW - I am in the states...Missouri to be more specific.
You would be far better of running the new speakers off of your amp as compared to using the internal amp on the unit. While it may say it is 50w x 4, it is struggling to make 15 w rms x 4, this is a far cry from the on average 50w rms x 4 that the good ol Soundstream makes. Even with the suggestions that I have made, it is well below the limit that your budget shows. Use the amp for now, channel the $ towards the proper speakers front and rear, the necessary 6XS and a sub or subs. Down the road you can shop for a larger amplifier.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Thanks again,
I'll decide somethign before too long here...when I get it all installed I'll post pics.
Like I mentioned - shoot me an e-mail or reply with a $$$ offer for the Soundstream 405