Hey, I recently got a half oldish still good condition MTX Thunder 102. I am going to run it for a single 10" sub. It was used (duh), and Doesnt have a manual. I could not find a pdf manual online all i could find was
https://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/archive/thunder102.cfm
I am wondering about wiring bridged. It probably says right on the damn amp, but I am impatient, and am expecting it in a couple days ebay baby. And Am wondering. I know 4 ohms is the lowest load it will do bridged. But is it L+ R- or R+ L-
It is a very budget build, and got the amp practically free, but said it was in good working and visual condition, so I wil give it a try. Also, is there a difference, if I were to use LOC at the back speakers in the trunk, Or should I use the Speaker Level Inputs (I heard those suck). If It were my car It would be done at head unit, But This is cheap and fast, just to get a little more bass. Thanks for responces.
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99 Blazer LT. Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)
It will say right on the damn amp :-) It is spec'd as bridgeable. If it's all worn off and you can't see it when you get the amp it will be the outermost terminals. At least, that would be by rum-induced guess. For the LOC, consider this: does the deck have a fader? And would you normally like to fade the rears a little lower than the fronts? If so, don't connect the LOC to the back rears because the signal will fade to the sub...attach to the fronts. Using the built-in is a shot...the first symptom of a problem go get a quality LOC and save yourself the time trying to troubleshoot. Symptoms can be far-ranging and don't necessarily point at the high level input as the culprit.
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.