Kicker S8L7 dvc 4 ohm, Kenwood 7202 amp
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73245
Printed Date: July 13, 2025 at 11:33 AM
Topic: Kicker S8L7 dvc 4 ohm, Kenwood 7202 amp
Posted By: shotokan1509
Subject: Kicker S8L7 dvc 4 ohm, Kenwood 7202 amp
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 12:23 PM
I have a Kicker Solobaric S8L7 dual voice coil 4 ohm sub and a Kenwood 7202 amp, wired with 4 gauge power/ground in a sealed enclosure approx .6 cubic feet. What is the proper way to wire this? I was told that I could only run this sub off of one channel on the amp because it would not be stable bridged. Few questions... is this true? If it is true, could I run 1 voicecoil off the left channel and the other voice coil off the right channel with my current sub to use the sub and amp to full potential? If not, would the 2ohm version of the same sub be able to be bridged? AMP SPECS: KAC-7202 Max Power Output 920 W Rated Power Output (+B = 14.4 V) Normal (4 Ω) (20 Hz – 20 kHz, 0.08 % THD) 150 W × 2 Normal (4 Ω) (DIN : 45324 , +B = 14.4V) 150 W × 2 Normal (2 Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8 % THD) 230 W × 2 Bridged (4 Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8 % THD) 460 W × 1 Sensitivity (rated output) (MAX.) 0.2 V Sensitivity (rated output) (MIN.) 5.0 V Input Impedance 10 kΩ Frequency Response (+0, –3 dB) 5 Hz – 50 kHz Signal to Noise Ratio ≤100 dB Low Pass Filter Frequency (24 dB/oct.) 50 –200 Hz (variable) High Pass Filter Frequency (12 dB/oct.) 50 –200 Hz (variable) Bass Boost Circuit 0 –+18 dB (variable) Bass Boost Frequency ...40 –100 Hz (variable) 40 Hz General KAC-7202 Operating Voltage 14.4 V (11 – 16 V allowable) Current Consumption 40 A SUB SPECS: Model: S8L7 Nominal Impedance [Zn], ohm [per coil] 4 Resonance Frequency [fs], Hz 47.2 Power Handling Watts, Peak (RMS) 900 (450) Total Q-Factor [Qts] .644 Equivalent Volume [Vas], ft3 (L) .36 (10.3)
Replies:
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 12:53 PM
The 2 ohm DVC version of that sub would be the best to use with that amp and would make the proper power/ power-handling combination. Series wiring would bring the impedance to 4 ohms and will get the bridged output the amp will make. With this 4 ohm DVC sub, yes, you can put a coil onto each channel. But you could also wire the coils in series and bridge the 8 ohm impedance load across the channels for the same output. The latter is preferred. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: shotokan1509
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 1:18 PM
stevdart wrote:
you could also wire the coils in series and bridge the 8 ohm impedance load across the channels for the same output.
I'm handy with car repairs/upgrades but am knew at the car audio stuff. Wiring the sub in a series I understand: 
Then I can still bridge the amp across both channels? Would this give me the 450rms/900 peak the sub and amp can output?
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 1:32 PM
As applies to the 2 ohm DVC version, yes, the amp would output into a bridged 4 ohm load. The ratings put it at 450 (or 460, as I look again) watts, which matches the power handling of the sub. As you can see, the wiring from sub to amp is just one + and one - wire, which would be connected to the amp output terminals according to the bridging diagram on the amp. The amp would output about 300 watts if you use the sub you now have. Output into a bridged 8 ohm load would = the rated output 2 X 150 @ 4 ohms. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: shotokan1509
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 1:53 PM
stevdart wrote:
As applies to the 2 ohm DVC version, yes, the amp would output into a bridged 4 ohm load. The ratings put it at 450 (or 460, as I look again) watts, which matches the power handling of the sub. As you can see, the wiring from sub to amp is just one + and one - wire, which would be connected to the amp output terminals according to the bridging diagram on the amp. The amp would output about 300 watts if you use the sub you now have. Output into a bridged 8 ohm load would = the rated output 2 X 150 @ 4 ohms.
This is how it is setup at the moment per another messageboard : For that sub, which you can only have a 2 or 8-ohm load with, you'll need to hook it up to either the left or right channel, wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load. This will give it 230w RMS. Is this correct or should I switch to your setup suggestion? Offtopic but I am getting frustrated with this, I bought the sub thats in the truck now and found out that it doesn't work with the amp to full potential, then I bought a used 2ohm that I was told was working but is messed up and the seller refuses to deal with me so it's in a dispute with paypal, then I bought a third sub (2ohm) and DHL lost it! 
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 4:25 PM
The correct and safe method for you to wire this system as you have it now is to series wire the sub to make it a 8ohm driver, then wire it to the bridged outputs of the amp.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 10:06 PM
]This wrote:
is how it is setup at the moment per another messageboard : For that sub, which you can only have a 2 or 8-ohm load with, you'll need to hook it up to either the left or right channel, wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load. This will give it 230w RMS. Is this correct or should I switch to your setup suggestion?
If the above "advice" was the best way to connect it, then that's what I would have told you as well. Although the other forum's user is not putting your gear in mortal danger with the above opinion, it doesn't make a lick of sense in any shape or form to do it that way. Your wiring question is pure and simple basics, and if you spent a few minutes in the Basics and Car Audio sections of the Help topics found in the left column, you would find your answer. Use this 12volt site to your benefit. There's a lot of understandable help built into it. And, as always, let the forum know how it turns out. Set this sub and amp up as properly as you can, and use the search function for this forum for plenty of good info on other good setup practices. Then post your questions on specifics related to those areas. Realize this: a system that is set up well in every respect will outplay and outlast those poorly-done systems that "utilize the full potential" of their amps only. Enjoy it until such a day comes when you can make a smart, calculated purchase on a replacement sub. Which leads to this: you could also just keep this sub and buy another amp. A mono amp, being one channel instead of two, will handle the 2 ohm load produced with parallel wiring. It could be such a thing in your future that you could use your present amp to power a lethal pair of front components, while enjoying louder output from this sub with the new mono amp.
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
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