Power for 4 12’?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74136
Printed Date: May 18, 2025 at 9:36 PM
Topic: Power for 4 12’?
Posted By: unreality
Subject: Power for 4 12’?
Date Posted: March 08, 2006 at 1:04 PM
I'm looking at installing 4 12" dual 4-ohm, RMS 300W and peak 600w and was wondering what would be reccommended for this set up in terms of amps? I am still a new guy to the technics of car audio, so if anyone could include a site or information on how they determined what should be used, that'd be great I"m not looking at huge spl, probably 30/70 spl/sq and I listen to a lot of tech and rap.I will be building the enclosures myself, so anything's possible in terms of sealed/ported etc Thanks for any and all Help! Craig McKee
Replies:
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: March 08, 2006 at 2:01 PM
Here is the wiring setup for you to consider. As this is one of the best ways to go about it, it means a one amp system at the same time. A amp that produces between 1000 and 1500 w rms at 2 ohms is the ideal amp for you. Not that I like Kleenex Gold, but they do have an amp that would do this. A better solution would be a JL 1000/1. Any mono class D amp that has a "governed" power output from 4 ohms to 1 ohm would be a good solution here. Perhaps even a JunkButLoud amplifier will fit this bill. A old Rockford BD1000 would be an ideal amp for this application. Option 1 (series/parallel) = 2 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono |  |
------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: jeffchilcott
Date Posted: March 08, 2006 at 3:27 PM
I dont know what yuor budget is but the new KICKER zx1500.1 fits the bill nicely
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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
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Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: March 08, 2006 at 4:40 PM
Uhh. In terms of amplifiers, really anything in the 1000watt range would be satisfactory... but I'd recommend something with *real* power to distribute across that many woofers.. maybe the JLAudio 1000/1...?
I dunno.. lotsa choices here.
As far as your box design goes, regardless of your vehicle, you really might find a ported enclosure restrictive in terms of space needed, and with *4* woofers anyway, you certainly won't be quiet with a sealed enclosure. What sort of vehicle is this going into?
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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
Posted By: unreality
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 12:12 AM
Hey all, thanks for the advice, the subs will be in the back of a 2002 Hyundai Accent 2 door. basicly, overkill. the 10'' bazooka tube I have does a great job right now, but nothing beats multiples, cept multiples in a custom glass box. ;) I'm now looking at an amp that has the following specs, what do you guys think? | RMS Power Output: | 880 Watts | | Birdged Output: | 1920 Watts | | Signal To Noise Ratio: | 98 dB | | Frequency Response: | 10-30,000 Hz | | Bass Boost: | 0-24 dB |
and I am assuming that the general idea of amp-to-sub power is just straight across numbers I.E. 300rms X 4 = 1200 watts = 1200 watt amp to go with regardless of connections, etc? Thanks for the help! Craig McKee
Posted By: boardinbum
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 12:19 AM
You should look for a mono class D amp that will put out between 1,000 and 1,500 watts RMS at 2 ohms.
Posted By: willdkartunes
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 12:31 AM
unreality wrote:
Hey all, thanks for the advice, the subs will be in the back of a 2002 Hyundai Accent 2 door. basicly, overkill. the 10'' bazooka tube I have does a great job right now, but nothing beats multiples, cept multiples in a custom glass box. ;) I'm now looking at an amp that has the following specs, what do you guys think? | RMS Power Output: | 880 Watts | | Birdged Output: | 1920 Watts | | Signal To Noise Ratio: | 98 dB | | Frequency Response: | 10-30,000 Hz | | Bass Boost: | 0-24 dB |
and I am assuming that the general idea of amp-to-sub power is just straight across numbers I.E. 300rms X 4 = 1200 watts = 1200 watt amp to go with regardless of connections, etc? Thanks for the help! Craig McKee
What brand amplifier are these numbers coming from? A lot of companies give false numbers to make their products look better than they really are. You should really listen to what forbidden suggested. A very good setup. Get a 1000 watt mono amplifier.
Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 9:06 AM
Definately look into a mono amplifier that puts out 1000-1500 watts rms at 2 ohm's. Be shure its a quality amp that puts out that power for real. Its basically impossible to find a 1000 watt rms amp under $300, keep that in mind when looking. Sounds like your really willing to learn so on your spare time, check out this site its veh helpful for any questions you may have. https://www.bcae1.com/ ------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 10:03 AM
Alpine Guy wrote:
basically impossible to find a 1000 watt rms amp under $300
For that matter, the power output spec on a 1000watt amp that costs ya that much will read like "1000x1 RMS @14.4v"
then you dig around a little bit and somewhere the truth comes out:
"700x1 RMS @12.5v" or something godawful like that. A *real* 1000 watt monoblock will set ya back far more than that. ------------- "I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 09, 2006 at 6:16 PM
My suggestion would be a Thunder 1501D from MTX or the TA81001 that will fit the bill perfectly. Both are bullet proof but are not cheap.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
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