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SQ problems with door 6.5’s

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74243
Printed Date: July 07, 2025 at 2:12 AM


Topic: SQ problems with door 6.5’s

Posted By: Alpine Guy
Subject: SQ problems with door 6.5’s
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 11:00 AM

How good are you with fiberglassing? Im sort of in the same situation, i have sound dampened the heck out of my truck, 2 layers of B-quiet everywhere and the doors still manage to buzz a little, but thats not my main concern, its the lack of clarity my misbass have. In my old truck i plotted my SPX-177A speakers in WinISD to see what size of sealed enclosure they needed and i made a lower panel sealed off specifially for the woofer and the difference was like going from a 3.5" sony speaker to a 8" sub in a home audio set up, the box for the speaker made my music just soooooo much more enjoyable.   Heres a pic of someone elses ride, same truck and same exact thing i did tho, just with 1 speaker on the door.posted_image

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.



Replies:

Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 8:05 PM
You should definitely sound deaden your doors either way.  It could possibly solve your problem and it will at least help keep things quieter.  It's a win win situation in my mind.

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That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 11:35 PM

The car door is, in effect, the enclosure.  When a sheet metal panel resonates from the sound pressure from the woofer, it cancels out some of the bass.  There is a HUGE difference in midbass SQ and output after you damp the panels.  The outer panel is hard to reach, but if you cut the Dynamat into strips you can reach through the access holes and cover it completely.  The inside panel, which has the access holes,is then damped as well.  Seal all the cracks and holes with the damping, and use caulk in places that make a noise when it is all done.  Keep the tiny weep holes at the bottom of the door panel open for moisture removal.

Damping without complete sealing is OK, too.  But the better it is sealed, the better it sounds because there will be less air expulsion points, which are noisy. 



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.





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