Alternator Whine?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74604
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 12:19 PM
Topic: Alternator Whine?
Posted By: bogey
Subject: Alternator Whine?
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 7:06 PM
Recently, I read the sticky on good grounds and so I decided to put the multi-meter to my car (1995 Camry). I found that my amp ground had a 10 ohm resistance after I deducted for the jumper wire. Even though the ground was reading 10 ohm I did not have any alternator whine. I had already upgraded the ground wire (4 ga. same as pos. wire) from the battery terminal to the chassis. So I figured I had better run my ground (4ga.) from my amp all the way to the battery.
After I ran the new ground I started to pick up some alternator whine. I figured it was probably because I grounded the Xover to the chassis and not to the ground distribution block (I did this because it was easier). So I ran my Xover ground to the distribution block. The alternator whine decreased slightly but was still noticable. So I tried an old trick an installer showed me once when I had a similar problem on a '90 civic. I grounded the RCA shield going into the Xover to the chassis of my head unit. This decreased the whine a little more, but it's still there.
At this point I'm out of ideas. Do you guys have any ideas to get rid of the whine. Worst case I can go back to grounding to the chassis. I hate to do that because I noticed with the ground to the battery my bass got tighter and it seemed to play a little louder; like the amp was able breathe now. Ideas please. Thanks.
I'm not sure if a list of my electrical equipment will help, but just in case: Nak. CD40, Coustic XM-3e, Butler TD475 (running at 4ohm stereo and 12 ohm mono), and I'm also running a 1 farad cap.
Replies:
Posted By: kirktcashalini
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 7:53 PM
did you have any problems when the ground resistance was 10?... as old people always say, If it aint broke, dont fix it.....
but good luck. maybe ground heavier than the positive. run 2 chunks of 4 gauge for the ground temporarily?
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99 Blazer LT. Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)
Posted By: bogey
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:32 PM
No, I didn't have any whine with the 10ohm ground, but it makes no sense to me. I put the DMM to the new ground and it reads almost zero resistance. This should be a much better ground.
I think I do have some old 4 ga. power wire laying around, may be I'll try adding that and see what I get. Thanks.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 6:15 AM
So I figured I had better run my ground (4ga.) from my amp all the way to the battery. Ok I just re-read your post, normaly you want your ground wire as shot as your able to get away with. I also had the same issue with that wineing until a shop told me to shorten my gorund to no more than 12" and that got rid of all the nosie I was haveing. Just find a good place for a ground and make sure you know where your drilling so you avoid your gas tank, Seen it happen befor. Here are some other things you can check How long is your ground wire? And is your power and RCA cables seperated, power down one side and RCA down the other side of the car? Did you some how loosen one of your other grounds from another pice of equipment?
Posted By: bogey
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 11:22 AM
Thanks for your input and normally you are right, but in this case read the sticky on proper grounding. To highlight a couple things for you:
ProperGroundArticle wrote:
"If a ground return reading cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm by means of the "BIG 3", then it is adviseable to ground direct to the battery... A good ground is not about the amount or size of the metal in the return to the battery but about the resistance through it. Todays vehicles are a combination of metals, spot welds, glued together unibody panels and isolated chassis components. The return through these components is where the resistance reading comes into question and this is what we need people to understand, why the BIG 4 needs to be done if the BIG 3 does not solve the problem."
Remember that before I did not have any problems, so it would make sense that RCA's were separated from power. You are right though, that is normally a culprit. And all equipment grounds have been checked.
One thing I think I will try later today is taking the Xover out of the chain and see (or hear;) what happens. Story at eleven! (or before)
Posted By: bogey
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 5:58 PM
I turned the Xover off and plugged the RCA straight to the amp and the whine went away. So I tried using a short ground wire from the Xover to the chassis, the whine came back. For some reason my amp is "seeing" a good ground, but the xover is not. Strange? I was also thinking about the recommendation of running an extra 4 ga. ground wire. I may still try this for the heck of it, but I don't think it will effect it. My power wire is regular 4ga. power wire, but when I upgraded the ground I went with KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4ga which is the equivalent to 3ga. and the wire is tinned. Anyway, just thought I would mention that. I guess I'll continue to tinker with the ground on the Xover. If anyone else has any ideas I'm open. 
Posted By: dragon51
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 8:21 PM
Those were just the things that I could think of off the top of my head. That is just weird. Good luck with it. 
Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 8:33 PM
i have had great luck with a 50,000mf cap on the alt. for thoes tough ones.
Posted By: bogey
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 10:13 PM
xscash wrote:
i have had great luck with a 50,000mf cap on the alt. for thoes tough ones.
Where do you get this? I was looking at parts express and couldn't find anything like that. Is this an electrolytic, polyester, or ceramic cap? Do you have an idea how it works? Just curious. dragon51 wrote:
Those were just the things that I could think of off the top of my head. That is just weird. Good luck with it.
No problem man. I appreciate your help. |
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