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Starting from scratch with car system

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=76276
Printed Date: April 19, 2024 at 12:50 AM


Topic: Starting from scratch with car system

Posted By: myhopper
Subject: Starting from scratch with car system
Date Posted: April 15, 2006 at 3:57 PM

Hi all, new to everything I.C.E.-even forums abouts it!!!
Looking for some help and advice for how to fit my system that i have bought, it is used, but nearly new, and with no boxes or instrunctions etc....as follows....

JVC mp3 head unit with pre-outs for , FRONT, REAR, and SUBWOOFER, it also has a small black lead out of it, with what looks like you could plug a small headphone jack into it, and a pre-in of LINE IN.

pair of clarion mids with tweeters for the rear, pair of phase 18xt 6x9's for the rear.
pair of phase linear front door speakers with tweets.

1 caliber amp- 2x130 Watts, bridgeable.
1 lanzar vibe 2 chanel amp, bridgeable 1600 Watts
Both these amps have 1 line in,1 line out, and 2 speakers out terminals on them, plus other settings buttons that i dont know what they are, and obviously the power, ground and remote terminals.

1 15" Atomic subwoofer in a sealed box, i managed to crack the centre of this sub of which the logo is on before i took it out of the 1st car, but it still worked fine, and from the look of it-it doesnt seem to be an actual centre cone???????????????????????????????????????????

1 10" pioneer sub in box, perfect condition.

Also a few different cables from a different install-not sure if any good!?!?!?!?!

this is what i ideally want to install-
but i do have a small pioneer amp at my disposal which was running the pioneer sub until yesterday, so any alteration of amps advice will be noted!

What i need to know is ... EVERYTHING!!!
I dont know what wires i need all together, what wires go where when i have them, what amps i should use for what items, and what to set the amp settings too.
I would like the option of have one subwoofer if possible incase i get fed up of not having any room in my boot!!

Things i think i know...

I need one cable to power the two amps to run from the battery to the boot where the amps are, what cable/fuse etc?? how do i get it for both the amps??

i take 2 audio jacks from the pre out's for rear and subwoofer from the head to the line-in's on the amps-
Which amps for which items, and what about the front pre-outs?
ground both the amps as close as possible to the car.
the remote lead needs to go from at least one amp to the head unit-what about the other amp-and where on the head unit?and waht size cable?
speaker cables to the subs and rear speakers-what size cables, and what about the front speakers?

PLEASE help me!
souns like alot, but i'm sure with the right knowledge from someone, i could breeze the install

**going in a mk3 VW Golf 1995**

the car only has the aerial lead at the head unit point - all other leads gone!?!?!?




Replies:

Posted By: jazzcustom131
Date Posted: April 15, 2006 at 4:17 PM

FIrstly, look at the sides of the amps. tell us how many and what size the fuses are attached there. That will determine the size of the necessary cables, and we'll need to know that before we can get you all your wires.

Yes, You need to run RCA's from the cd player to the amps, If ya want, you can take and run just the rea channel set to the speaker amp, and the sub output to the sub amp.

Use the larger amp (the 1600)on your sub. I'd personally go with the pioneer, just because it's known to not have any issues.

What are the numbers on the other pioneer amp?

Can you get us the RMS and MAX numbers on these AMP @ 4 ohms? Or model numbers, and some of us will figure it out.

i'm not sure what an aerial lead is? Are you talking about the wiring harness for the stereo?

We'll tell you what all the knobs and switches on the amps are for later



-------------
Greed is for amateurs.

Disorder,chaos,anarchy now THAT is fun!!




Posted By: arrow12
Date Posted: April 15, 2006 at 6:55 PM

First of all...  Don't pay attention to max numbers.  These are some of the most useless gimmics around.  Max numbers don't mean anything because they are commonly inflated beyond belief.

Secondly...  Start researching.  I don't mean this in a bad way, but you don't really no much at all about car audio.  Search through this forum with the posted_imageSearch button.   Go to THIS SITE too.  You will learn so much from that site.  Start reading all you can because us talking you through everything won't help you in the long run.

Thirdly...  Don't run two different woofers together.  This will cause some unsatisfactory tonal results.  I'd stick with the Pioneer sub because I have never heard of Atomic.



-------------
That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




Posted By: myhopper
Date Posted: April 16, 2006 at 6:17 AM

Ok then, thanks for the starting points!!

I'll do as you say to the best i can-and go through things as you say the best i can.

I will have to put the pioneer amp figures on here later-as its not here right now-so i'll start with the other amps.

CALIBER AMP-CA 130, 2 x 130Watts, Competition, series- III

Bridgeable, with 1 20amp fuse, signal in (right & left), signal out (right & left), and a few other buttons and switches on it (frequency, level, & variable crossover)

LANZAR VIBE AMP-i have found the spec for this online-but it is without the "Remote Subwoofer Bass Control"

  • 2 Channel 1600 Watts High Power MOSFET Amplifier
  • 2 x 250 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
  • 2 x 800 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
  • 1 x 1000 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
  • 2 x 450 Watts at 2 Ohms
  • MOSFET Switches Maintain Rated Power Over A Wide Range of Battery Voltages
  • Stiffly Regulated PWM-Type Power Supplies
  • Variable Input Level Controls for Each Pair of Channels
  • Variable High & Low Pass Crossover Controls
  • High-Efficiency
  • Heavy Aluminum Heatsink
  • Remote Subwoofer Bass Control
  • Electronic Crossover Network
  • Bass Boost Circuit
  • Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
  • 2 Ohm Stereo Stable
  • Tri-Mode Capable
  • Gold RCA Inputs
  • Line Outs for Left & Right Channels
  • Power & Protection LED Indicators
  • Advanced Protection Circuitry
  • Soft Turn On/Off
  • Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz
  • S/N Ratio: 90 dB
  • Dimensions: 10.25"W x 2"H x 19"L
  • by aerial lead-i mean the lead that goes in the head unit from the car aerial to give the radio signal.

    i will stick with one sub for now if thats best, but i do want to have the provision there for two subs-as i a plan on getting a box with 2 of the same sub's in it (i also want to know what i will have to do when the time comes from going to one-to 2 sub's!)

    also- would i be right in saying-i'm better off running the front speakers off an amp and the rear speakers off the head unit as i dont always carry passengers any way-and i only have the 2 channel amp for one set of speakers (either front or rear)???

    thanks

    My





    Posted By: arrow12
    Date Posted: April 16, 2006 at 9:34 PM
    Put the amp to the front speakers.

    -------------
    That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




    Posted By: myhopper
    Date Posted: April 17, 2006 at 6:53 PM

    Right, i picked up the pioneer amp and pioneer 800w sub-amp-

    pioneer gm-x602

    250w x1 /4ohm

    or 80w x2 /4ohm

    head imp, 2-4ohm

    also-picked up an identical pioneer 800w sub!

    So i think i'm gonna do this....

    vibe amp as 2x 800w left speaker output=sub 1, right speaker output=sub 2

    pioneer amp as 2x 80w front "phase linear" speakers

    caliber amp as 2x 130w either just the rear "clarion" mids/tweets, or the rear "phase xt" 6x9's-or both by splitting speaker cable or putting 2 spaeker cables in one output (any issued with doing this?)

    *few things to ask though..

    shall i just run the front spakers off the head unit-as it outputs at 50watts a speaker any way -as appose to using a 3rd amp at 80watts per speaker)

    and if i buy a seperate battery for the system-will i not need to get a different alternator (if at all)??

    also-what leads do i need to do for powering the 2 or 3 amps?and how do i do this?





    Posted By: arrow12
    Date Posted: April 17, 2006 at 8:45 PM
    I think you are reading all of the max power ratings for your amplifiers and head unit.  The head unit probably only puts out about 20-25W RMS.  I have no clue about the amplifiers though.  You should power the front speakers too.  About the second battery...  That will only help you if you play your system with the car off.  An alternator will help while the car is running and to recharge the batteries.

    -------------
    That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




    Posted By: myhopper
    Date Posted: April 18, 2006 at 4:41 AM
    how do i know if i need an alternator then?




    Posted By: myhopper
    Date Posted: April 19, 2006 at 11:19 AM

    right then, heres what i've done (after loads of reading and research, and what i'm comfortable with!)

    vibe amp running 2 subs (bridged)

    pioneer amp running front speakers

    caliber amp running rear 6x9's

    head unit rear wiring running clarion rear components

    one monster power cable into distribution block running the 3 amps, i'm gonna see about an alternator, but i had 2 amps running alot more previously and never had a problem.

    **problem i have now, is that when the old system was taken out (about 2-3 years ago), no wiring blocks were left in place!!, fortunately i can tell which ones were the front and rear speaker wires-as they still have bits of the speaker cable on them,  BUT.....

    the 3 wires i have left (i'm assuming for the remote, power, and earth) are the following colours-and i dont know which ones are which!?!?!?!?!

    IF ANYONE KNOWS-PLEASE TELL ME!

    BROWN

    RED & WHITE

    BROWN & RED

    (these are in a vw golf MK3)

    once this is solved-all i need to know then, is how to set the switches and buttons etc on the amps

    thanks

    My





    Posted By: arrow12
    Date Posted: April 19, 2006 at 3:53 PM
    You'll "need" a new alternator when your lights start to dim.  I say "need" because you don't have to get one, but if the lights bother you than get one.  For the wires you can look HERE I think.

    -------------
    That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.




    Posted By: geepherder
    Date Posted: April 19, 2006 at 6:50 PM

    IIRC brown is ground, RED / white is constant, and BROWN / red is accessory.  You do need to test these wires with a meter to verify them first, though.



    -------------
    My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




    Posted By: myhopper
    Date Posted: April 19, 2006 at 7:16 PM

    ok, i think i'll wait and see about the alternator for now-wait till i'm up and running!

    looks like the wiring on the link from arrow and what geepherder said confirm what geep said, but i really am a novice!

    i.e. ground? constant?, accessory!?!?!?!?

    and just incase-how do i test these-will it matter if they are not right and i put them to the earth, remote, and power on my head unit loom?

    also-what wires are the power, remote, earth, and rear speakers on my head unit loom-wires as follows...

    loom 1;-

    8 wires

    green & silver

    green, silver & black

    white & silver

    white, silver & black

    grey & silver

    grey, silver & black

    purple & silver

    purple, silver & black

    loom 2;-

    6 wires

    orange, white & silver

    brown & silver

    black & silver

    blue, white & silver

    yellow & silver-which has been linked half way via crimps

    red & silver-which has been linked half way by crimps with a piece of red & silver wire spliced out of the crimps.

    i'm assuming that loom 1 is the speakers-but which ones are rear speaker colours?

    and i aint got a clue on loom 2 which wires to cut and attach to the 3 wires mentioned earlier for power, earth, and remote?

    thanks as always

    My





    Posted By: myhopper
    Date Posted: April 19, 2006 at 7:26 PM

    dont know if this helps-but i think the wire hanging from the red and silver one on the head unit loom was connected to the remote lead to the amps!?!?!?!i may be wrong,

    and correct me if i'm wrong-but ground is the earth/negative, constant is the 12 volt power, and accessory is the remote from the igntion wiring from the key position,

    so what i think i should do is put the ground(brown) to the black and silver on head loom

    the constant (red & white), to the red and silver on head loom

    the accessory (brown & red), to the blue, white & silver on head loom

    and the remote lead from amps to the spare piece of red & silver on head loom?????????

    again-correct me if i'm wrong-and is there a test i shoud do first to confirm on 3 car wires?

    thanks

    My





    Posted By: myhopper
    Date Posted: April 19, 2006 at 7:38 PM

    RIGHT......

    just been doing more research!!

    correct me if i'm wrong as follows..

    rear speakers are the green cables (left), and violet cables (right)

    ground is the black and silver (so to the brown)

    accessory is the RED and silver (so to the brown and red)

    constant is the YELLOW and silver (so to the red and white)

    and amp remote is the BLUE and WHITE (so to the remote lead from amps)

    obviously this is pending the 3 car wires being what we think they are (can i test these without a meter-as i dont have one)

    but it also leaves an orange & white cable, and brown cable on the loom doing nothing-is this important??,

    and what about the spare piece of wire on the red and silver cable??

    thanks

    My






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