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Grounding and noise

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=77096
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 10:09 PM


Topic: Grounding and noise

Posted By: neon1
Subject: Grounding and noise
Date Posted: April 07, 2006 at 12:50 PM

Hello,

Car: Lexus LX470, 1999

On the wiring diagram, there is one connection that I can't figure out, it's called AGND. Wire is BROWN / White and a small arrow pointing at the connection, saying 2000.

(Regular GND exist too, and, according to diagram, it's grownded under front passenger's seat)

Any ideas what this is, would be appreciated,

Thank you in advance




Replies:

Posted By: firstrax
Date Posted: April 07, 2006 at 12:58 PM
usually Analog Ground. Lexus may have a different internal acronym




Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: April 07, 2006 at 1:54 PM

Thank you!

Now, the next question then, which one do we use for aftermarket head unit? My assumption is it's GND that we need. And if so, what do we do with AGND? Just leaving it not connected?

Thanks!





Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: April 18, 2006 at 8:20 AM

Gentlemen,

As someone kindly explained to me that AGND on the wiring diagram most likely means 'Analog Ground' my question then would be. What is 'Analog Ground'?

Provided that on the OEM head unit there's also a regular Ground, which is ends up by being connected to the chassis, I am concerned about which one do I use with the aftermarket head unit, with just one ground connector?

Hope someone can shed a light on this!

Many thanks in advance





Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: April 18, 2006 at 8:59 AM
All I can think is that you MIGHT have changer (or some other type of external device) inputs for the OEM HU. Personally, for an aftermaket device installation, I would stick with chassis ground, or as you put it, 'regular ground'. The analog ground should be where the RCA (or whatever proprietary analog signal connector) gets it's reference point. I bet there is also a DGND, as well. That'll be your "digital ground", and will be the reference for either the control cable, or the digital audio stream, or both...

These are guesses, first and foremost... What type of car is this? Give us some specifics, so we can make a better informed decision...

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: April 18, 2006 at 9:09 AM

Thank you Haemphyst!

No, there is no DGND connection. It's Lexus LX470 and AGND is a connection between HU and factory amplifier.

Thanks!





Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: April 18, 2006 at 9:15 AM
That makes sense... Yes, use the 'regular' ground...

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: April 18, 2006 at 9:32 AM

Thank you sir, I'll give it a try.





Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 10:35 AM

Gentlemen,

Looks like I am having another grounding problem.

Here's the system set up:

Lexus LX470. Head Unit - Sony WX-S2200

I have replaced the head unit, but kept factory amplifier and speakers. (for now at least)

Amplifier is located under passenger seat, and grounded to a chassis too.

Ground wire goes from the amplifier to the head unit harness.

So here's my problems with and without engine running.

1. Ground wire from amp harness connected to ground of a HU - loud popping sound when switching between tracks of a CD, regardless of engine running or not. No other, engine, noises are present then.

2. Head unit ground wire connected to a chassis - less popping sound when switching tracks, but noise when engine is running.. Noise is independent of RPMs, stays constant, not varies in volume and reminds me of ignition rather than alternator. Not very loud too, only audible when volume is almost all the way down.

3. HU body connected to a chassis through mounts, HU Ground hooked up to a chassis. NO popping sound when switching tracks. Engine noise the same as at #2.

When HU grounded to a chassis, resistance between negative terminal of a battery and HU ground wire is about 0.9 Ohms.

I even tried running a wire directly from battery negative to the HU ground, without any luck.

Honestly, I am out of ideas at this point. Have tried pretty much everything, DC noise filter, grounding either HU or Amp harness to a chassis, (or both) - no luck.

Any help or advise will be very much appreciated,

Thank you





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 10:52 AM

What gauge wire are you using from the HU to the chassis ? Also, have you tried changing HU's ? There maybe something wrong with the HU's ground or power filter's. Just some suggestions for you.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 11:21 AM
Wire the cd player temporarily past the factory amplifier. So this means to remove the amp out of the loop altogether. Run a temporary line from the cd player to one of the speakers that was popping and retest. Next unplug the antenna and remove the unit out of the dash cavity and retest. The metal chassis of the cd player may also be making contact with the chassis of the vehicle if you ISO mounted the cd player. As such, it and the antenna are also grounding points, not just the ground wire. Retest again. What have you used as an interface between the Sony and the factory amplifier?

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 1:18 PM

Thank you guys!

In fact, I'm not sure about what gauge the ground wire is. It is about 1.5-2mm in diameter. Go figure. Same diameter as the ground wire of the OEM harness.

Unfortunately switching HU is not as easy, I don't have access to them, and purchased this one on the Internet from Japan.

However, the fact that it makes noise when it touches the metal of the car, and popping when it is not, makes me think that it may not be a headunit issue. Otherwise it would be doing something constantly, no?

Forbidden: Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try and hook up a speaker directly to the speaker output of the headunit. See what happens. And again, when it is not in the cavity, it pops when switching between songs, but no noise when engine running. If it is in the cavity, but not bolted to the mounts, same thing, when bolts are in place, there's this noise, but no popping. Go figure.

And in order to connect it to the existing car harness, I had to actually make my own connector, matching the one on the OEM radio. Used plasticine, epoxy and contacts, then soldered it to the Sony harness.

Thanks again.





Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 6:53 PM
I believe the problem is you're feeding too strong a signal into the factory amp.  Did you have this problem with the factory deck?  I'll bet you didn't.  If you're feeding speaker level signals into the factory amp through the harness, you can try feeding it a low level signal instead.  Otherwise, bypass the amp completely (which may include a speaker upgrade as well).

-------------
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 8:43 PM

Thanks Geepherder, but no, I am not feeding factory amplifier with speaker output signal.

Sony does have two sets of preamp outputs, and that's what I'm feeding the amp with, through the factory harness.

Besides, I believe that if the signal was too strong, it would be the case regardless of the engine state.

But you're right, above mentioned problems were not present with the factory head unit.

Thanks again for your input!





Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: May 02, 2006 at 10:54 PM

Just as a follow up.

Connected HU to the chassis (seat mount bolt) with 10 gauge cable, no difference, noise is there, just as when HU touches the metal of the car.

Tried hooking up speaker directly to one of the speaker output of the head unit. Noise is NOT there.

Last thought is to re-run the amplifier ground closer to HU? Does that make any sense at all? Amplifier works with no noise with the OEM radio.

So challenging!

Thanks in advance





Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: May 02, 2006 at 11:34 PM
You have a interface problem. You need a 4 channel LOC like the one made by Scosche or Soundgate. You are feeding a monster hot signal into the amplifier and asking it to do wierd things that it was not designed to do. Thus you get all the little strange things that happen with it. Either bypass the amp entirely and wire direct to the speakers or purchase the proper LOC.

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: neon1
Date Posted: May 03, 2006 at 7:45 AM

Thanks Forbidden,

I'm not sure what do you mean by monster hot signal.

I kind of thought that line output is pretty much the same everywhere. And, as I mentioned earlier, speaker outputs of the head unit are normally left not connected.

What I'm feeding amplifier with, is the preamp output from SONY, which has four RCA at the back, front and rear. And otherwise sound is very clear and good, which wouldn't be the case if the signal was way out of amplifier range.. Or am i wrong?

Thank you again!





Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: May 03, 2006 at 6:44 PM

Not necessarily.  The factory deck may put out a lower level signal than the new deck.  Some line out converters are adjustable which could give your amp a usable signal.

You can also try linking your headunit ground to the amp ground.



-------------
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.





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