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How to jump car with battery terminal

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=77591
Printed Date: July 13, 2025 at 12:32 AM


Topic: How to jump car with battery terminal

Posted By: coppellstereo
Subject: How to jump car with battery terminal
Date Posted: May 10, 2006 at 10:40 PM

I have this battery terminal installed:
posted_image

If I need to jump my car, or someone else's car, how could I go about doing it? I have a standard 2 pole top mount battery.

Thanks!

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Replies:

Posted By: HICKMANAE3
Date Posted: May 10, 2006 at 10:53 PM
Take off the plastic cap and hole the clamp to the metal. :)

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No security system can beat the tow truck :(




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: May 10, 2006 at 10:57 PM
scary.

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Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: May 10, 2006 at 11:21 PM
I should think you would want to remove it from the post altogether.  Connecting two cars together electrically can sometimes be a scary thing, especially if you have your sound system connected at the same time.  Is it difficult to remove?

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: May 10, 2006 at 11:46 PM
No, i'll just need the hex wrench, but if I disconnect the terminal it disconnects the rest of my car too ...

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Posted By: zhalverson
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 12:55 AM
I would think that holding it there is risky as it may scratch that shiny block or arc a little and discolor it.  That's something I've never thought of though.  That's a good question.  Could you keep a short run of 0 gauge, disconnect the power to your stereo and replace it with your short run of wire and connect the wire to the jumper cables?  You'd just have to have that the tool for taking out the wire I guess.  I would think that would be a safe way to do it.  I hope that makes sense.




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 2:14 AM
Yeah, makes sense. Not sure it is viable though. I hadnt thought of it either, was hoping someone had some experience with it. Maybe i'll sub out a top and side mount battery soon and seperate the audio stuff from the car workings.

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Posted By: saturnsubohio
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 6:47 AM
coppellstereo wrote:

Yeah, makes sense. Not sure it is viable though. I hadnt thought of it either, was hoping someone had some experience with it. Maybe i'll sub out a top and side mount battery soon and seperate the audio stuff from the car workings.


not a bad choice, although the idea behind having a "snippet" of 0/1 Awg wire for "jumping" isnt really such a bad idea, the majority of jumper cables and wire to/from the battery is smaller than 0/1 awg so you'd not be inhibiting any current to flow.

personally i would go that route.

Good luck, Let us know what you decide. Also the side/top post battery wouldnt work in some applications, like for instance my car.

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2006 WRX STI
Electrical Engineer
Ohio University Alumni




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 12:25 PM
well it is so difficult to take the peice off and if it were dark it would be near impossible.

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Posted By: Custom_Jim
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 2:15 PM

Could you do something like on the older GM cars that had the battery terminals buried under the overflow tank. They had a battery terminal stud by the front strut tower that was designed as a jumper post ?. It simply jumped down to the hard to reach terminals on the battery. It also had a formed red plastic cover over it so it was not exposed. Moroso also makes jumper posts for race cars and these too have rubber covers to cover the solid brass studs so it looks nice. They use them on race cars to connect battery chargers too easily in the pits.

Jim



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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street




Posted By: djfearny2
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 2:40 PM
i read so previous posts and well hmmm? thats all i can say. anyways i have the same terminals now the way i did it was . used a 4 guage quick disconnect off of my battery than located the quick disconnect on the wheel fender inside the hood. than took a bunch or 4 guage jumper cables cut one set of alligator clips off and attached the other side of quick disconnect so now my cables will only work with my car. or tow trucks that have the same cable connection. the connectors are like 10 bucks a peice plus some 4 guage wire to hook it up to battery. terminals available at

www.selectproducts.com

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Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 3:25 PM
cool idea!

all of my terminals are full coming from the battery post, how could i connect this?

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Posted By: Custom_Jim
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 3:29 PM

What do all of the wires go to ?. Does one go to the starter or to the factory fuse block ?. You could tap off of there if it's large enough. Does one go to an underhood fuse which then goes to you audio equipment ?. You could tap in there. The one for a ground if you use one of the disconnects talked about or with the Moroso jumper studs you could just go to the engine block.

Jim



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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 3:34 PM
Just a comment, not an answer: if you find you frequently need to jump-start your car, your electrical system is overloaded and/or defective.  If you have friends who frequently need a jump, then the same is true of their vehicles.  I suggest a AAA membership.

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Posted By: hustlin247
Date Posted: May 11, 2006 at 4:15 PM

In my '95 Saturn SL2 the main power wire coming from my battery is connected the the fuse box by a large bolt. When jumping from that car I clamp directly onto that bolt instead of the battery itself because it clamps more securley there. Do you have something like that? All I have to do is pull of the cover to my fuse box and the bolt is easily accessable.






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