Sub, amp, doing it myself

so i've taken the task of adding a sub and amp to my stock lexus es 300 93' (pioneer system). i want to make sure i'm about to do this all right. currently i'm building my sub box. i'm going to be using a rockford fosgate p2002 amp to push a 10" pioneer ts-w251r. i just got the appropriate amp installation kit. i also have a line level converter. i think this is everything i'll need but just want to make sure.

also as far as where i install these things i'm not sure about some things. starting with the line level converter - where does it install? this is the line level converters instructions:

"connect AULOC (model name) gray wire (+) and gray/black wire (-) to the right speaker output of the source unit. connect AULOC white wire (+) and WHITE/ black wire(-) to the left speaker output of the source unit. if there is only one stereo minus, connect both AULOC minus wires to it. the RCA jacks are the output for the AULOC. adjust control pots for the desired output. the brown wires are not usually used. the brown ground wires are to be used only if no sound is audible on both channels. attach the brown wires to the source unit's ground."

does this mean i'm attaching the LLC to the signal that's being sent to the factory amp? or after the factory amp that's being sent to my speakers?

otherwise i think the rest should be pretty self-explanitory ... i'll connect the power source to the amp, output from LLC to amp and connect amp/sub and it'll be good to go?

thanks for help in advance.

line level converter uses speaker outputs not factory amp inputs.

back up anyone or other feedback?

The factory amp was used for the OEM sub, is that correct?  I'll presume you are replacing that sub if that is the case.  Attach the LOC to the speaker wires after the factory amp to assure getting sub signal.  If the factory sub remains hooked up it will also get a signal which you don't particularly want since you have a new sub.  Disconnect the factory sub.

The LOC converts the high level speaker signal to a line level signal for the amp.  Connection is via RCAs.  Connect left signal to left, etc.  Use the pots, or gains, on the LOC to adjust to define the quality of the sound, and this will take a few sessions to get just right.  In most cases LOC manufacturers say to start at the highest clockwise position and only regress the knobs if needed.  Some say to start in about the center.  I'm an advocate of starting at the highest and turning them back to taste.  Keep this in mind:  every time you make an adjustment on the LOC gains there will be a slightly different voltagle input to the amp.  With any change in input, a complete and careful resetting of amp gains is necessary.

Connect the amp as indicated in the amp's manual.  For startup operation, connect a turn-on wire (18 to 20 gauge is fine) to a switched 12 volt source found locally in the car, or route the wire up to the dash and find it there.  'Switched' is on when the car is on or in accessory position.

..."and it'll be good to go"??   Not until you complete the next 20 steps!   

I'll add this:  factory systems are different from car to car.  The best way to incorporate a sub system into a factory setup is by running wires "wild" to the connection locations first, wrapping bare wire around bare wire, and testing for signal.  That is to say, test before you solder and tuck everything neatly back into place.  If you find that getting the signal after the amp is not correct in this case, go to the front L/R speakers and attach your wires (you could also use the back speaker wires but I prefer the front so that you can continue to use the fade function to reduce the rears without reducing the sub signal).  Testing input signal requires that you set up the amp and sub combo first and have them working.  The "next 20 steps" starts with setting the gain on the amp...

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

 i would recommend using a multimeter for testing!!! due to the fact that you may in turn connect a live power source in stead or speaker signal. which will result in a broken amplifier. use the meter to find a switched 12volt power source for your remote wire . and continue to test looking for speaker resistance. you can use the meter to test at the speakers to find the resistance. then find the same at the H/U install the line level converter at the back of the H/U for easy add on of a new H/U in the future. hope this helps.

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700