Hi I am new here as I just found your site. I am in the final stages of building a 1939 Chevy 2-door sedan street rod. I have just finished the wiring using an american Autowire harness with GM color code. I am ready to purchase my audio/sound system and could use some advice. The list of items include;
Pioneer AVIC-Z1 head unit (DVD, CD, XM, NAV, etc.)
JL 500/5 amplifier
Infinity 2-way component 5 1/2" front and 4 x 6 2 way rear, JL 10" sub in enclosure.
I have never wired a car stereo of this size. I have a trunk mounted Optima Yellow top and a 150 amp alternator.
All the diagrams I have found on the net are related to a newer model car. I am looking for a diagram of, let's say a generic setup. I understand Ohms Law and wire and fuze sizing, just not familiar with the general schematic of how this unti would go together. With a trunk mounted battery and an under dash fuse panel, should I just run a hot lead (fused) from the battery to the amp (mounted in the trunk) and the regular radio leads from my fuse panel for the head unit?
BTW, I am 54 years old and although I am interested in listening to great music and video, I will not be doing much head banging in this vehicle.
thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike, we can help you out. You have found the best forum on the net as it pertains to car audio. Before we dive into the wiring of the vehicle, let's have a look at the component selection. Are you open to some suggestions on your equipment or do we work with what you have chosen? Is an I-pod going to be part of the system or a satellite radio tuner?
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
For the radio you will require a fused battery source and an fused accessory source of 12 volts. You should be able to use the feeds off the front fuse box. The fuse rating required will be dictated by what the fuses in the radio harness are. Even though the radio has fuse holders in it, you must still fuse the wires going to them to protect the car from wire harness short circuits. Usually a 20 amp fuse for the battery circuit and a 10 amp for the accessory. If your fuse panel doesn't have an accessory terminal available, you can tap into the accessory wire off the ignition switch. Ground the radio to the chassis so that it contacts clean bare metal. You will also require a parking brake negative circuit to the radio as well as VSS or vehicle speed sense wire. Depending on your speedometer/transmission set up you will need to determine what is available to hook up to. From the radio you can run front and rear RCA cables and the remote turn on wire to the amplifier. Hook the remote turn on wire from the Pioneer radio (blue) to the amps turn on terminal. Use thick power cable for both main power and ground to the amp. Depending on the current demands of the amp and the length of run from the battery to the amp, you will have to select the correct wire gauge. The amp will be hooked to the battery positive post for power. Use the same gauge wire for both power and ground. Keep the ground wire for the amp as short as possible, but insure that it too has a good contact with the chassis and is free from paint. Install an inline fuse on the amp's power line close to the battery. Try to keep the RCA cables away from any other power leads to prevent any system noise. Run all the speaker wires from the amp to each speaker set.
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sparky
As the battery is trunk mounted, chances are the amp will be as well. Run the ground wire of the amp direct to the battery ground if this is the case. No need to scratch up a nicely painted car.
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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
First,
"Forbidden"; I am open to any suggestions on the component selection. Also, there is no IPod in this setup but I am going to use the GEX-P10XMT satellite XM and traffic unit.
Second,
"Sparkie"; I have a yellow radio batt wire (20 amp) and a tan radio acc. wire (10 amp) from my fuse box. I am running a 700R4 automatic transmission and so far do not have cruise control. Please explain what this is for. The grounds are not a problem as I have run a continuous ground throughout the car. I have a trunk mounted, engine compartment and under dash mounting block for all the grounds in a continuous loop from the battery to engine to firewall to underdash to battery. The power ratings of the amp are as follows wit the rum being only a foot or so in the trunk;
500/5 Hybrid Class D & Class A/B Five-Channel System Amplifier Specifications:
| | 500/5 | | Rated Power Front Channels: | 100 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V) | | Rated Power Rear Channels: | 25 W RMS x 2 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V) | | Rated Power Subwoofer Channel: | 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V) | | THD at Rated Power: | <0.03% @ 4 ohm (front and rear ch.)
<0.05% @ 4 ohm (subwoofer ch.) | | S/N Ratio (Front & Rear Channels): | >108.5 dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth) | | S/N Ratio (Subwoofer Channel): | >95 dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth) | | Frequency Response (Front and Rear Channels): | 5 Hz - 30 kHz (+0, -1dB) | | Frequency Response (Subwoofer Channel): | 5 Hz - 300 Hz (+0, -1dB) | | Damping Factor (Front and Rear Channels): | >200 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz | | Damping Factor (Subwoofer Channel): | >500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz | | Input Range: | Switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS | | Dimensions (L x W x H): | 19.70 in. x 9.25 in. x 2.36 in.
500 mm x 235 mm x 60 mm |
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Hope this answers some of the questions and I appreeciate your help. Mike |
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