I just started building my first subwoofer enclosure for my 12" CVR's and someone from this forum sent me everything I need to get the box and so far it's coming along pretty well. I'm using 3/4 MDF and the deminsions of the box is 32"w x 14"h x 27"d, which makes the box 5.6 cubic feet, with the divider gives each chamber 2.8 cubic feet.
The maximum volume for the 12" Kicker CVR is 4.6cf.
I figured that the 2.8cf will be fine since the max is 4.6, and I don't have the trunk space to reach the full potential of the subs. But a lot of friends and people I talk to on the internet are telling me that the box size is too big for those subs, and the sq won't be as good. They tell me to cut the depth back to at least 23" to get total of 4.7cf, which gives each chamber 2.35cf. In my opinion that won't be much of a difference, would it? Is that box too big for the CVR's? Or is everything good so far? I trust the person who sent me the plans because so far its looking pretty good, and I'm trying to learn more and expand my car audio knowledge. I just don't want to get it all glued together and ready to go and find out that the box IS too big and the bass is sloppy and "annoyingly" loud.
My goal with the bigger box is to get better sound/bass than the Radio Shack prefab box. What should I do to reach that goal? Cut the box back some to get less volume to get higher bass response, or is it fine how it is to get lower freq.? Or would that make any difference at all? (I don't want sloppy bass if that's what's going to happen with the 27")
Thanks.
On the Kicker site it has from 1 to 4.6 cubic feet for the air space. I always build mine 1.75 to 2 cubic feet for that sub and they sound great. Opinion's are like @%*holes, everybody has one, but that is what I use.
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'85 Toy
Keep this in mind: you can make a large box smaller a lot easier than making a small box larger. Do some testing once the system is up and running and all set up properly. Measure a brick, figure its cubic ft displacement, and after listening to the sound (use the same source over and over) in the box as it is, place the brick into the enclosure. Then place a second brick.... This applies if the box is sealed, but if vented you would have to change port lengths along with the displacement changes.
(...just for the sake of covering bases, don't leave the bricks in the enclosures unattended ! ;)
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
... and if you decide to leave the bricks in there, glue them in place. Or use a piece of 2X4 cut to the same size as it's lighter. :)
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Support the12volt.comi have my cvrs in the exact box that kicker puts in there manual. one cubic foot exactly(each had its own seperate box. now i have the subs running off of a boss 1400watt amp, and i know your all going to laugh at my 100 flea market amp but after all the laughing u have to figure this amp is at the very best this amp is putting out 600-700watts. the subs stay clean and it has awsome response stays clear and tight. i listen to mostly country lots of r&b and some rock and punk so they get a good mix. ive had the set up in a lincoln mark 8, a ford bronco(fullsize) a gmc sonoma, and now in my gmc suburban. i change cars alot i guess but it has never dissapointed me... i say follow there plans and u wont be either.
Well I went ahead and cut the box back 4", which I doubt would have made much sound difference if I kept it at 27" but I guess I wanna be safe than sorry. It's my first time building a box and I must say it's more fun than I thought. I just need to glue the divider and top on, and mount the subs then I'm finished. It's still a huge box compared to my old box. Each chamber will be 2.35cf and Kicker reccomends 4.6cf max for each, so I'm sure that'll make those subs sound a lot better than the Radio Shack prefab box I have now. Haha.