Sub System Cutting on and Off

When first, the system bumps normal. AFter a period of time, the system (subs) will stop hitting, ,then start back up

This only happens when the volume is consistenly bumping for more than 15-20 mins on loud meaning pretty high

But at lows it can last for ever

i am not sure if its teh amp or subs or what.

sounds like you may have the amps wired at an ohmload the amp cannot handle. What are the specs on your ams, subs, and how you have them wired?

It sounds like the amp is going into thermal protection. Next time it does this, put your hand on the amp, if it is hot enough to almost burn you, it is in thermal protection. If this is the case, you are a candidate for a better and larger amplifier. You might also have the gains set incorrect on the amp and a improper ground.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Sorry, let me rephrase,

seems like at high volume, after 5-10 minutes. it stops hitting, then maybe a few seconds later it goes back to normal, then later agian pauses, and then hits again.

When the volume is at a lower level, it can last for ever.

they are 2 jl audio w6v2 12's
running on a 1200 amp
wired in parallel i believe
also with a 2.0 farad digital cap.
OPtion 2

specs of amp:
600 watts x 2 channels max
200 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
250 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms
500 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm
low-pass crossover (50-300 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
variable bass boost (0-10 dB at 40 Hz)
Tri-way capable
stereo 2 channel or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable when bridged
Tri-way capable

Still doesn't matter...it still seems like your gains are turned way too high and the amp is shutting off because of the thermal protection.

It only plays forever when the volume is low because the amp isnt being pushed past its limit.

Read the "how to set your gains" sticky then get back to us.

Your amp cannot handle the load you are putting on it. You need to wire like option B so you get a net 4 ohm load then bridge at the amp. Then you shouldnt have thermal issues. What brand is the amp?

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

yes it looks like your ohm load is not correct for the amp, what amp do you have, and what car do you have?

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Shaking The Neighborhood

It is wired on "option b", in other words option 2.

It seems like its the amp, it goes into protection mode.

I just played with it today, and adjusted the headunit subwoofer control back to (0) from (-10). Thus, providing more bass this time. I played "What you know" by T.I.
and the bass hits amazingly well, for 5 minutes. Then I suppose it gets hot or something, and the indicator on the amp turns from green to red.

So i'm assuming its the amp, but the amp is fairly new, and it should be able to handle the load. If i am correct, according to jl audio's website, 400 watts RMS or less would do it, other wise they will not garuntee the speakers if you go over.

I wired sub up to run
500 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohm

Again have you read the how to set your gains sticky??

Aruman wrote:

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yes it looks like your ohm load is not correct for the amp, what amp do you have, and what car do you have?

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Check out the amp specs in the original post. I posted the specs towards the bottom. The car's in good condition, if you're wondering about the electrical system. Grounding kit the 3 point grounding batter new, the voltage on the cap reads 14.+

Rkodis, you still have not addressed the gain question.  How are your gains set?

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DYohn] wrote:

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Rkodis, you still have not addressed the gain question. How are your gains set?

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on the amp or the headunit?

The amp.  Actually, asking that question makes me think you probably do not have it set correctly.  Most good amps will shut down if it is overloading due to 1) too low system voltage, or 2) too low speaker impedance load, or 3) too high input level, or 4) too high gain setting, and numerous other reasons...

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