My IDQ broke, pics
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=80175
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 1:46 PM
Topic: My IDQ broke, pics
Posted By: dwarren
Subject: My IDQ broke, pics
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 5:08 PM
Stupid design on their part... At first the tinsel lead broke away form the binding post which was fixable, but now the lead has come away from the damn cone! Upon closer inspection all the points on all of the leads are begining to fray. I have a funny feeling my other woofer may share the same illness, but not having any sub section blows. Ahh, the joy of shipping woofers 



-------------
Replies:
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 5:55 PM
Those are super tiny pictures, damn near like thumbnails. You able to retake them and post again?
------------- I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 5:59 PM
You could probably fix those yourself. Strip a little, solder, then put a tiny bead of hot glue on the joint to keep things from unraveling in the future.
Hope all is well!
------------- New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 8:41 PM
kfr01] wrote:
ou could probably fix those yourself. Strip a little, solder, then put a tiny bead of hot glue on the joint to keep things from unraveling in the future.
Hope all is well!
I am very hesitant to solder the one that came off the cone, there is very little room in there. Like wise, good to see you are back, for the moment! -------------
Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 9:30 PM
Tinsel lead length is usually set to a certain length beyond the designed excursion for the subwoofer. So if you were able to break the leads, you most likely were pushing the sub too hard. If it's in a ported enclosure, make sure you have a subsonic filter to prevent the sub from unloading down low.
Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 9:46 PM
They are in a sealed enclosure, 1.5 cu ft each. I thought that may be case, or even a bad amp, but when I looked closely at the joints of all the leads, they all looked the same, right at the joint, the plastic casing over the wire had cracked and looked stressed. I don't believe it is due to over excursion, particularly with ID's questionable build reputation. -------------
Posted By: bdl666
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 10:21 PM
That is very common with those subs. I had a pair and the leads would break a lot. After about 6 or 7 times that I fix them. I got tired and replaced them with ones that came out of a cheap set of subs(a pair of American Pro subs) and haven't had any more trouble with them. They are in my brother's car now. ------------- ieSpell rocks.
Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 10:45 PM
bdl666 wrote:
That is very common with those subs. I had a pair and the leads would break a lot. After about 6 or 7 times that I fix them. I got tired and replaced them with ones that came out of a cheap set of subs(a pair of American Pro subs) and haven't had any more trouble with them. They are in my brother's car now.
How did you deal with soldering to the cone? I just don't think I could make the angle. -------------
Posted By: kfr01
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 11:42 PM
dwarren wrote:
kfr01] wrote:
ou could probably fix those yourself. Strip a little, solder, then put a tiny bead of hot glue on the joint to keep things from unraveling in the future.
Hope all is well!
I am very hesitant to solder the one that came off the cone, there is very little room in there.
Like wise, good to see you are back, for the moment!
Add a little jumper's worth of extra speaker wire if you don't want to pay or wait out the repair. As long as you don't add too much (such that it is flopping around) it shouldn't affect the sound. I'm serious about the tiny bead of hot glue on the ones that haven't broken yet.
And thanks for the welcome back. The wife and I bought a home built in 1936 and it has been taking my free time. Well, that and my recent focus on home audio. :-) ------------- New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
Posted By: bdl666
Date Posted: July 12, 2006 at 12:18 AM
I removed the dustcap and soldered the new leads to the wires going to the voicecoil under the cap. Then is just a matter of gluing them to the cone (use some sort of flexible glue for this) and reattaching the dustcap. ------------- ieSpell rocks.
|