new speakers too deep

I just upgraded my front 6x9' s to kicker ks693's and after installing them I noticed the windows rub on them when they go all the way down. I tries putting a few spacers under the bolts and it helped some, but the windows still rubs a little. I am thinking of finding some thicker spacers or something else but I was wondering if any of you had any tricks for sityations like this. I really like the sound of these speakers, and dont really want to get rid of them unless I have too. Also if the speaker isnt flush mounted will it effect sound quality?

Thanks

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

What kinda vehicle is this, Im gonna guess a Dodge Ram mabye? Anyways when I have had this problem in the past I have made spacers out of 1/2 MDF, just use the grill ring as a template. If your in a pinch, depending on what the grill ring looks like you might be able to just flip the sucker upside down and use it as well.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Its a 05' chrysler sebring, thats a good idea about the grill, i might have to try it. Its kind of strange because there is only a difference of 2/8" of an inch difference between the previous speakers and the new ones. Thanks for the info

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

You can also try releasing the window track bolts and spacing the window track back up to 1.5" in some vehicles. Should you do this, pay close attention to the window motor to see if it is labouring to put the window up or down. If it is, you have moved the track too far and over time this will cause the motor to burn out. You should only have to move the front of the track, leave the back right where it is.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Yeah. I totally mistyped that one, i meant 2/16".

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

The important thing when all is said and done is that you have a solid baffle that these speakers are attached to.  Putting spacers at the screw locations is a no-no.  You don't want any space in any place between the speaker flange and the baffle, whether the baffle is the sheet metal of the car or an MDF baffle that you made yourself.  It's a good idea, too, to caulk completely around the edge after it has been fitted and tested.  If your entire door is (damped and) sealed in this manner, the sound quality and output will be at its greatest.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Depending on the clearance you have between the door and the door panel,  you might also be able to use something like this which would give you extra clearance.  I used something similar when I put my polk dbs in my Grand Am.

dfizzle wrote:

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Depending on the clearance you have between the door and the door panel,  you might also be able to use something like this which would give you extra clearance.  I used something similar when I put my polk dbs in my Grand Am.

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Yeah that would probably do the job. I decided to just break down and buy a kickser rs65.2 component setup to use instead. I will just put the ks693's on the side or something to go with the rest of my spare stuff. Thanks all

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!