built new sealed enclosure

I just built a new sealed enclosure for my kicker L7 12, I built it to be about 2.0 cubic feet braced the heck out of it, and filled it with loose fiber fill at about 75%. My queston is the box sounds great ( at least the real low bass frequencies) but has very minimum output when playing the higher bass frequencies. The lows are extremely smooth and tight, with great sound quality, but I am missing the upper ranges. Would this be caused by building too large of a sealed enclosure?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

Sounds to me like you got the subwoofer part of it down right.  What you're missing is the midbass.  That comes with well-built components in the front with a lot of damping.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Where is your Low Pass Frequency set?

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it is set around 78hz. I have pretty decent midbass coming from my kicker rs65.2's, also I have ks69's as rear fill. Its just with rap style lows, the sub hits extremly hard and tight, but with rock style kick drums, etc. The bass is very minimal. I was thinking of throwing a 1.25' cubic ft enclosure toghther together to see what type of response I get. I do not want the hardest and loudest hitting bass, just want extremely smooth, good sounding bass. Thanks for your replies guys

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

Use test tones and do some sweeps.  See if the bass really falls off in the 60 to 80 Hz range using only the subwoofer.  Then see what happens when all speakers are played together.  Because of the big difference in sub bass amplitude built in (mixed) between the genres of music you mentioned, it might just be a matter of making a deck adjustment for the different types of music you listen to.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

I was thinking the possibility of the phase of the woofer being off, relative to the mid-bass. When you turn the woofer(s) off or down, does the mid-bass response improve? When you are running JUST the woofer(s), does the response of the upper registers improve? Is yes to one or both of these questions, reverse the phase of the woofer(s), either using the phase setting in your deck, crossover, eq, or amplifier, or reversing the woofer's speaker leads at the amplifier.

Or, just for grins, reverse the leads anyhow... it won't take long, and it'll answer your question, pretty much immediately.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

well, did some sweeps as stevdart mentioned, and it does fall off in the 60-80hz range. Same results with mids on or off. Speaker phase is correct, tested for the heck of it. I dont believe it to be any settings on my head unit or eq because I did not have this issue with the vented enclosure I replaced. I really wouldnt mind the way it is but I can be listening to a song and it will lightly hit the upper registers, then violently hit in the lower tones. Very misperportioned.

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

Are you taking into account the fact that the cabin of the car will cause a significant increase in low frequency response? A speaker with a flat response certainly won't be flat once you put it in a car cabin. I have the same problem in my car. Also, it sounds to me like your crossover point is too low- after all bass does extend up past 78Hz, and the rolloff slope of the crossover (which is probably only 12dB/oct) will interfere with frequnecies below the crossover point, causing a reduction in higer bass frequency response.

I agree, it's in the system setup.  A smaller box will not provide more bass in the 60 to 80 Hz region, but most likely will peak it in the 50 to 60 Hz area...while taking away your low end response.  BUT...80 Hz is generally a good crossover point.  I notice with rock sources that the front components take on the major duties of drum kicks, while the sub does very little.  If there's a null in that critical area, it should be corrected with the controls you already have available.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

I have been tweaking it a little to see what type of different responses I get. This sealed enclosure actually has better low end response then the vented enclosure it was in, and a heck of alot cleaner. On a seperate note, does anyone know of any ways of tested a sealed enclosure for air leaks. I have let the speaker play loud and felt the seams to see if I feel any air, and they all seem very tight, but I was wondering if any of you hav any other tricks. Also do you guys go heavy with fiber fill, or just do 50-75%. I love being able to absorb the knowledge that you all offer. You guys rock

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No, I don't take steriods- But thanks for asking!

test??? no need of you caulk all of the interior joints.

I have usually just connected a Makita battery or something similar. Hold it there, until the cone stops, and then release it. The slower it returns to it's reating point, the tighter your enclosure is.

That's as close as I got... Anyone else?

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."