4 channel amp?

I have a 1990 corolla GTS. I just bought a clarion with the USB flash use. I got an ALpine AMP 4 channel and want to know the best way to hook this up, plus some instructions. Like Do I tap in or connect the remote power to the power antenna? Should I use all channells? Use subs and rears?

On the amp theres like a couple connections to the "bridge" Dont know what to do there. I got the ground ready and the power. just need the harder stuff solved. Thanks for any info. ASk me any questions so I can get the correct answers.

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Cobra Kai Never Die

are you useing the 4CH to power all 4 corners in the car or just 2 corners ,and a sub or just subs?

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bring back the rotary phone so i dont have to press 1 to proceed in english

josh1979 wrote:

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are you useing the 4CH to power all 4 corners in the car or just 2 corners ,and a sub or just subs?

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I just want to probably do the rear speakers and subs. Is it possible to do front ,rears and subs?

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Cobra Kai Never Die

nouseforaname wrote:

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the bridged option is to convert the 4 channel to a 3 channel or a two channel. just keep your ohm load in mind when doing this. don't use the power antenna wire for the amp remote or your amp will turn off when you go to cd. most HU's have a blue/white wire that is the amp turn on wire. the solid blue is for the antenna. if your model doesn't have a blue/white, you can just use the ignition wire.

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Well the one I bought for my wife is the USB flash stereo. She doesnt use the CD. is that ok to use then?

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Cobra Kai Never Die

nouseforaname wrote:

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you'd have to wire the fronts AND rears together, seriesed of course, off the front channels, then bridge the rear channels to run the sub. remember, when you bridge two channels, it cuts the ohm load in half of what you are acually giving it, say you have two 4 ohm svc subs wired in parallel to get a 2 ohm load. when you bridge the two channels, the amp will see a 1 ohm load. pay close attention to the impedence loads or you'll have a boat anchor that looks like an amp.

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Im sorry,

Im new to this. Ohms? So I need to use different wires? Speaker wires , Right?

I fee dumb when it comes to this type of stuff

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Cobra Kai Never Die

man i hate to say this but with the kind of questions you are asking i thing you need to take you car to some one who knows what thay are doing and ask then if thay can explain what thar did you may learn a little from this and could try to do it your self next time. there is no shame in breaking down to let a professional handle it i would hate to see that nice new head and or your amp up in smoke over some thing like $50.

this is a link to a site that has a lot of gooe info read up https://www.bcae1.com/ 

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bring back the rotary phone so i dont have to press 1 to proceed in english

nouseforaname wrote: the bridged option is to convert the 4 channel to a 3 channel or a two channel. just keep your ohm load in mind when doing this. don't use the power antenna wire for the amp remote or your amp will turn off when you go to cd. most HU's have a blue/white wire that is the amp turn on wire. the solid blue is for the antenna. if your model doesn't have a blue/white, you can just use the ignition wire.

An amplifier does not change impedence, speakers do. Whether bridged or not, 2ohms is 2ohms.

vinspo, nouse never said anything about the amplifier changing the ohm load that it sees...he just said that you can bridge the rears and keep the fronts stereo essentially turning it into a three channel setup or bridge front and rear making it a 2 channel.

 I got power to the AMP. Remote,ground and power all hooked up.NOw I dont have any sound though. I think I plugged speaker wire wrong. I am just running a MOnster huge wire to the 2 10's BOston pros that are hooked up to the 4 channel amp(alpine). I have 2 preouts. and 2 inputs also. Then I got 2 rows of 1-2 channel and 3-4 channel.

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Cobra Kai Never Die

nouseforaname wrote: you'd have to wire the fronts AND rears together, seriesed of course, off the front channels, then bridge the rear channels to run the sub. remember, when you bridge two channels, it cuts the ohm load in half of what you are acually giving it, say you have two 4 ohm svc subs wired in parallel to get a 2 ohm load. when you bridge the two channels, the amp will see a 1 ohm load. pay close attention to the impedence loads or you'll have a boat anchor that looks like an amp.

My mistake, I copied the wrong post. This is the one he wrote that in.

WHat if I just want to run the subs for now?

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Cobra Kai Never Die

Nouse is correct in that the amp will see a 1 ohm load per channel if bridged at 2 ohms

My point is that when you bridge an amp, it does not cut the ohm load in half. Statements like that only serve to confuse others. Impedence is measured through the resistive load placed on the amplifier. Most 2/4 channel amplifiers can not go below 4 ohms when in bridged mode.

Lets just start calling apples oranges instead. A 4ohm load is a 4ohm load and a 2ohm load is a 2ohm load. The amplifier does not change this fact!

Dont start getting smart because your wrong...no offense but that last comment sounded like your flustered and won't accept the facts.

Yes we know that the amp cannot control impedances...

nouseforaname wrote:

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ok, you seem to be the one confused. a STEREO amp, not MONO, is just like having two amplifiers in one chassis. the term "bridge" is just that, its a bridge between to amplifiers. say for instance you have two 4 ohm svc subs wired in parallel to give you a 2 ohm load. now, when dealing with a stereo amp, when you bridge the "two amps" (the two channels) together, those "two amps" have to share the ohm load you give them, thus each amp seeing a 1 ohm load which with most stereo amps is unacceptable. sure the ohm load you supply may be 2 ohms, but each side of the amp sees 1 ohm. mono amps are not like this because is basicaly "one amp" in one chassis so if you give it 2 ohms, thats what it sees due to not having share the load with "another amp".

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Actually, a stereo amp is NOT the same thing as having two amplifiers in one chassis. That is "Dual-Mono". A stereo amp must have a common voltage rail, between the two channels, to technically be called stereo. A dual-mono amplifier is NOT bridgeable, EVERY stereo amp IS bridgeable, whether the manufacturer provides for it in the amplifier, or as Orion used to do, provides an external bridging module. Dual mono can be used as stereo, and stereo can be used as dual mono, but dual mono is NOT the same thing as stereo, they are NOT bridgeable.

I hear a lot of people saying that in bridged configuration, the amp channels are "sharing the load". Wouldn't sharing the load make the load lighter for each channel, in effect making the amp "see" a higher impedance? Answer: Yes. That's what "sharing the load" is. If you have one truck, producing 100 horsepower, towing a load that takes EXACTLY 100 horsepower to keep it moving, and you add an additional IDENTICAL truck to SHARE that load, the trucks each only have to produce 50HP, right? Do half the work, each, right? Answer: Again, yes. THAT is "sharing the load". An amplifier doing half the work would be equivalent to loading it with half the load, or twice the impedance, i.e. 8 ohms, vs. 4 ohms.

What actually happens when bridging an amplifier, is you are now putting TWICE THE VOLTAGE across the load, which will cause the load to pull more current, twice the current, to be exact. This makes the amp produce 4 times the power of a stereo load. The additional CURRENT demand (2X the stereo current demand) is why the amplifier "sees" twice the load, i.e. half the stereo impedance.

So stop saying it's "sharing the load", it isn't... it is actually doubling the load, not halving it.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Thanks to all. I got it running now. Thanks again

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Cobra Kai Never Die