Yaris sedan, system build

Just got a yaris sadan and decided to do a system. So here's my list evaluate and let me know if somthings missing. I'm a newbie at this so really want to know if somthing is missing because the day I go to install everything needs to be set. Even recommand some tools I may need and that such.


PIONEER DEH-P7800MP

JL Audio 10W6V2

going to build box

Phoenix Gold Xenon 400 Watt Mono Amplifier

cdt EF-61CF with upgraded 560crossover on it and the tw-25T tweeter.

Phoenix Gold Octane R 2 Ch 400 Watt Amp


80sq feet of damplifier pro
2 sheets of overkill
spry adhesive
rollers

KonFUSED Ground Distribution System
Karma 16AWG Speaker Kable
Complete 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit
KonFUSED 2 Way Distribution System      
Kolossus Kable 4 Gauge Blue Power Wire      
Mini ANL (MIDI) Fuse 60A

dashkit
wireing harness
speaker brakets


thanks a lot

That's a lot for a one day install for a beginner.

Read the ground sticky on this forum.
Read the install primer at https://www.bcae1.com/

I'd try to build the subwoofer box on a separate day as my install. You don't want to rush and lob off a thumb.

I would also go one step at a time. Install the head unit first. Power it up. Make sure it works.

My next steps would be:
Install your deadener
Run all wires
Install amplifiers
Test amplifiers
Install front speakers
Test front speakers
Install subwoofer
Set gain on subwoofer amplifier(using methods found here and bcae1.com)
Dial gain on front amplifier to achieve a balanced sound with the subwoofer.

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

nouseforaname wrote:

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also, make sure to try and keep your rca cables as far away from the power wire as posible, on seperate sides of the car would be ideal.

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Nope... Read here!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haem: one question regarding that thread:

The power cable is only carring 12VDC. Is there not bleed from the AC coils within the alternator bascially using the 12VDC as a carrier signal. Similar to how a phone works, using a -48VDC signal as the carrier for the voice signal. Would you not be able to use an inductor connected to the power cable and amplify that sound?

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The Flakman
I feel strange. I have deja vu and amnesia at the same time.

John | Manteca, CA

Id have to call a huge BS flag about running power wires next to RCAs is OK. I know for a fact that it does. Keep them far away. Ive had problems in the past with this before. I have some pretty decent RCAs too. Tripple shielded and cost about $60 a pair. When you do need to cross your RCAs and power make sure it is at a 90 degree angle.

Flakman wrote:

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haem: one question regarding that thread:

The power cable is only carring 12VDC. Is there not bleed from the AC coils within the alternator bascially using the 12VDC as a carrier signal. Similar to how a phone works, using a -48VDC signal as the carrier for the voice signal. Would you not be able to use an inductor connected to the power cable and amplify that sound?

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There can be, and that is actually mentioned in the thread. 99 times of 100, if you replace the battery, it will have FAR more effect in cleaning up noise than would the running of the cables together or apart. Also if you have a large enough inductor, with tight enough coupling to the main cable, you MIGHT be able to gather some noise from it, but not on the RCA's. There isn't enough coupling, simply put. The voice transformers in a telephone (or rather the telephones of old) were 1000:1 transformers. That's a HUGE ratio, and MILES from a 1:1 which is what an RCA/power cable "transformer" would be.

killer sonata wrote:

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Id have to call a huge BS flag about running power wires next to RCAs is OK. I know for a fact that it does. Keep them far away. Ive had problems in the past with this before. I have some pretty decent RCAs too. Tripple shielded and cost about $60 a pair. When you do need to cross your RCAs and power make sure it is at a 90 degree angle.

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Then how do you explain in my car, ALL the wires, (with the exception of the left channel speaker wires) being run down the right side of the car, and I have ZERO noise... and I have 2 #4 cables running back with it all, AND those two wires run RIGHT NEXT to one of my signal processors... The only time I have had noise, EVER is when my OEM alternator tried to fry a diode, and that was not induced noise, it was in the system, due to dirty power... Oh, and my RCAs are not esoteric at all, entry level, make-'em-yourself Monster cable, with foil and braid shielding, bought on a 250 foot spool for 100 bucks at a going-out-of-business-sale about 15 years ago...

You really should read the entire thread, there is a lot of information in there, that could help you in the future.

Almost invariably, IF there is noise actually being induced into your signal cables, I can certaintee there is something ELSE causing it, and there should be additional troubleshooting done - moving the cables apart (while achieving the desired effect) is a band-aid.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

I remember that thread...I think I may have posted as well. I may have forgotten about that being mentioned (getting older and older). Thanks for the clarification...as always.

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The Flakman
I feel strange. I have deja vu and amnesia at the same time.

John | Manteca, CA

I don't understand this big deal here, how much of a problem is it to run the wires down diffrent sides of the car?

Why no just run them on both sides?

lowfront wrote:

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I don't understand this big deal here, how much of a problem is it to run the wires down diffrent sides of the car?

Why no just run them on both sides?

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If your car is already torn up, AND you have room where you want to run the new cables, there isn't much more to it at all. I have dealt with cars that didn't have much space on one side or the other due to fuel delivery, OEM harnesses, brake lines... whatever, that didn't allow enough space to run more cabling, so everything had to be run on the other side of the car. It does happen and all the thread mentioned above is saying is it is perfectly OK to do it, as the power cable can't induce noise on your RCA's.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

hey guys just got all my stuff in for the radio install

Did that and everything seems to be fine accept for the fact that my ipod adapter doesnt seem to be working right...


ITs wierd I get all the data and info, but when I go to play to song there's no sound.

the wires to the amp, and wires to the speakers

anything special have to be done to disconnect back speakers. Or can I just take them out. Not using the backs didn't know if headunit needed somthing done to it or not.

Alright, I got the JL10 W6V2 sub. Planning on doing the box soon, possibly today. Now I know there is talk about there specs provided being too small, but coulnd't find a suggestion as to what size to do.

I'm going to do a sealed boxed. Should I just go with JL's specs?

Yes. They are one of the few manufacturers I would actully USE the recommended box volume...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."