Wiring two 4 ohm dvc subs?

I bought a pair of L7's and I was told they were 2ohm dvc, and I had them wired to run at 2ohms... Well When I was building a different box for em yesterday I took them out of the enclosure for the first time and found out that they are actually 4ohm dvc, meaning this whole time they were running at 4ohm not 2.... No wonder they werent getting as much power as i thought they were going to...

What wiring options do I have besides 4ohm and 1ohm?? Theres no way of getting a 2ohm load out of them? What if I wired each sub as a 2ohm load and had one going to one channel and the other to the second channel? What would that do?

Like that?

Just look at your amp's specs for the output at 2 ohms stereo and that will answer your question.

What two channel amp do you have that would have taken a bridged 2 ohm load anyway?

If the above doesn't make sense because you really have a mono amp with dual terminals, you will be putting a 1 ohm load onto that amp by doing that.  And those aren't channels, they are just dual terminals that are parallel-connected.

State what equipment you're dealing with here.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

a crappy Lanzar vibe286

# 2 x 1000 RMS at 4 OHMS
# 2 x 2000W MAX at 4 OHMS
# 1 x 4000W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged
# 2 x 1650W at 2 OHMS
# MOSFET
# Electronic Crossover Network
# Bass Boost Circuit
# 2 Ohms Stereo Stable
# Anti-Thump Turn-On
# Illuminated Top Panel
# Soft Turn ON/ Off
# High & Low Level Inputs
# Power & Protection LED Indicators
# Advanced Protection Circuitry
# Remote Control Bass Booster
# Dimensions: 11.06''W x 2.24''H x 21''L
# T.H.D: < 0.04%
# S/N Ratio: > 90dB
# Channel Separation: >65dB
# Frequency Response: 15 Hz - 35KHz

blah blah overrated

You're lucky these weren't actually DVC 2 ohm subs when you had them wired and bridged to this amp.  It would not have handled a two ohm load bridged (but most don't).  You can wire each sub to a separate channel, or wire the two subs together like this

...and bridge across both channels.  Either way is the same output.  The net result is no change at all from what you had before.  An amplifier upgrade is in your future.  (...and that applies to most of us!   )

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

I've been checkin out this one, do you think it would be any good?


Power Acousitk A3000DB Car Audio Class D 3000 Watt Sub Woofer Amplifier
     
Brand:     Power Acoustik
RMS Power Output:     1800 Watts x 1 @ 2 Ohms
1 Ohm Stable - 2300 Watts RMS Into A 1 Ohm Load!
Signal To Noise Ratio:     100 dB
Frequency Response:     15-150 Hz
THD @ 4 Ohm RMS Power:     0.5 %

Nope, same as the Vibe.  Do some reading through past threads in this forum for some brand suggestions.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Budget???