amb to sub?

ok here we go... i am sure this question has been asked 7893679843729.3 times but i shall make it one more...

i have a 99 honda civic... and a 73 vw bug....  both these cars will get the same system in them...

im a kicker fan... always have been always will be... sorry no one is perfect...

so onto my question

this is what i want to do......

2 kicker S12L74  

• titanium deposit cone
• non-resonant aluminum basket
• Santoprene rubber surround
• dual 4-ohm voice coils for wiring flexibility (with a compatible amp)
• frequency response 20-100 Hz
• power range 75-750 watts RMS (375 watts per coil)
• peak power handling 1,500 watts
• sensitivity 86.6 dB SPL
• top-mount depth 6-13/16"
• sealed box volume 0.88-2.0 cubic feet
• ported box volume 1.75-3.25 cubic feet  
• 1-year warranty

and a Kicker ZX1500.1 monoblock

• RMS Power Range : 1500 Watts
• Number Of Channels: 1
• Power (watts): 750W x 1 @ 4-Ohms 
• Power (watts): 1500W x 1 @ 2-Ohms 
• Low Frequency response: 20 Hz
• High Frequency Response: 200 Hz
• Built In Crossovers: Yes
• Channel Separation: Yes
• Class D Design
• Gain and crossover frequency control
• Protection light indicator
• Mosfet Powered
• Soft Start turn-on
• Protection Circuit
• Remote bass control
• Dimensions: 20" (L) x 2-1/8" (H) x 9-5/8" (D)
• Frequency Response: 20Hz-200Hz +0, -1dB
• Input Sensitivity (High Level): 250mV - 10V
• Input Sensitivity (Low Level): 125mV - 5V
• Signal To Noise Ratio: >95dB
• Active Crossover: 24 db/octave, variable 50Hz-200Hz, Low pass only
• KICKQ Boost: Variable to +18dB
• 12db/octave subsonic filter defeatable at 25Hz

now i know the speakers are duel 4 ohm and can be wired to make them 2 ohm but my question is will this amp support that load and how can i WIRE the subs to 2ohm  so that both subs are 2ohm and they will goto the AMP as 2 ohm??

a wire diagram made in paint shop or what ever would be really helpfull i have searched the net but have found nothing... any help would be great.... ANY...

I don't know why they would recommend that amp. You cannot get a 2 ohm total load from 2 - 4 ohm DVC subwoofers. It is electronically impossible.

I will revise my previous post. The subs can be wired at 1 ohm, 4 ohm, and 8 ohms.

You have a few options for the subs you have:

• 2 ohm stereo amp with required wattage.
• 4 ohm mono amp with required wattage.
• 1 ohm mono amp with required wattage (not my favorite choice...but with a good quality amp with built in fans, it is doable)
• run only 1 voice coil per subwoofer and lose 10-15% of your output.

If you have a solid, well-braced and optimally constructed enclosure for those subs, you should go ahead and use this equipment if you already have it.  It's not a crime, even on the street, to run subs at a 4 ohm load.  Wire like:

If what I said above is true in your case, you will have some seriously loud subs.  Keep in mind this often-overlooked fact:  doubling the power (in this case as if the load on the amp were 2 ohms) will net an increase of only 3 db...but you may rarely if ever be at that point where that increase would come into play.  At least not if you are using this car as a daily driver.

wow, ok then this is alot of information for me to intake...

i dont have any of the equiptment as of yet... tho i do know i was S12L7

stevdart that monoblock amp (the ZX1500.1) would not be the amp to use in this case with what your diagram shows am i correct??

if not do you have any sugjestions on what amp i should use with that diagram you have shown??

Yes, I was referring to that very mono amp.  Two ohms is the limit you can run it at, while 4 ohms is an easier load for it to handle.  750 is a lot of power no matter what impedance influences it.  You may never have a use for 1500 watts for subwoofers.

If you want to have a 2 ohm load on that amp, use the model S12L72.  Refer to Woofer Wiring, found in the blue help and info column to the left of this page.  But definitely stay with the idea of using a mono amp for subs;  it takes a lot less power reserves from your car's electrical system than a stereo amp.

The S12L74.  I already told you why.  The amp will run cleaner and cooler with a 4 ohm load, and that is the per-channel impedance used for just about all car audio speakers anyway.  And secondly, I'll reiterate what I said about power:  you will possibly never have this system loud enough to notice a difference between 750 watts and 1500 watts.

Then I went on to imply:  If you think you HAVE to run the amp at its max limit, and if you think you HAVE to power those subs to their max thermal limit...use the DVC 2 ohm models instead.  Usually this type of thinking is brought on by peer pressure from others who don't know as much about car audio electronics as you do.

Here is an SPL chart using a random sub I had in the WinISD database;  it doesn't matter what sub I use for this graphic.  The first link is a chart showing 118 db with 750 watts input:

750wattsspl.jpg

Now here is the increase in SPL when you double the power to 1500 watts:

1500wattsspl.jpg

You see about a 3 db increase.  3 decibels is the amount of SPL that is NOTICEABLY louder.  Now, of course, this doesn't account for the tremendous amount of cabin gain that will be added to the SPL level in a car, so the overall SPL will be higher.  But the point is that you may not be able to listen to levels that loud in your car whether it's 750 watts or 1500 watts.

Using those graphs as reference, if you were to imagine that the line representing, say, 116 db was as loud as you could possibly stand to play that sub, you see that there is absolutely no difference at all between 750 and 1500 watts because you never get it to that level.  Put a sheet of paper on the 116 db line on both graphs, covering the top part, and you'll see what I mean.

I hope by now my explanations are clear.  Good luck with your build.

very clear... thanks for your help.. i just wanted to be TOTALY sure that i wont be wasting money

again  thanks for your help...