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Running wires inside and input terminal?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=83336
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 12:30 PM


Topic: Running wires inside and input terminal?

Posted By: digdug18
Subject: Running wires inside and input terminal?
Date Posted: September 25, 2006 at 7:03 PM

I've never built a box before, I'm planning on doing it next weekend though. The part I dont understand is how to run wires inside the sub box and how to connect to the box. Are you soldering wires to the sub? what gauge are you using? how do you maintain a airtight seal around the wires going into the box, or do you use banana plugs or something like that to seal the box? Also do you fill the box with poly fill or something similar? I know alot of questions, but they werent covered in the FAQs or the building a fiberglass box sticky. and yes I tried searching. Pictures would be nice as well, but not a nessecity, yeah my spelling sucks.

Andrew




Replies:

Posted By: realgossamer
Date Posted: September 26, 2006 at 10:08 AM
You could get something like this:
ebay
and then seal around the edges of the cup with the same stuff you used to seal the inside of the box.




Posted By: bryantobando
Date Posted: September 26, 2006 at 10:53 AM
What i do to my boxes is simple. Just make a hole with a drill bit as big enough for the wires to fit through snug. Then cover the hole in and out of the box with the silicone used to seal the edges inside the box. this is good if the box is for you because its fast and simple. if you ever want longer wire for some reason, the con of this is that you have to open up your box to get to the terminals of the speaker. I wouldn't recommend doing this if you are doing a box for someone, it doesnt look professional. but it does the job. if




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: September 26, 2006 at 10:36 PM
Use 16 guage speaker or primary wire to connect voice coils.  Use a single strand for each polarity.  You can either solder them to the terminals or use solderless crimp connectors (disconnects).  Your choice whether you want to run them through a hole in the box or use a terminal cup.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: September 26, 2006 at 11:01 PM
Has anyone here tried drilling two holes in the box and using a bolt and nut??

Saw it in a picture a lil while ago on another forum...looked pretty cool...not sure if it would affect the sound in anyway if the bolt would cause any significant resistance...just wondering




Posted By: SoundAudio
Date Posted: September 26, 2006 at 11:16 PM
Most bolts have a significant amount of zinc to it, so some would say it is not as good of conductor. Which if you really want to get into resistivity of materials it does have a higher resistivity than copper, aluminum, and gold. ( i'm not going to go look it up in a table so anybody can correct that if it is wrong)

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Good Luck!
-Thad




Posted By: fakepete
Date Posted: September 27, 2006 at 3:51 PM
Here's some binding posts that mount in a 1/4" hole and accept up to 8 guage wire.

https://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1245&Cfid=4892474&CFTOKEN=65110992




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: September 27, 2006 at 11:02 PM
Ahh that is what I was looking for...thanks pete




Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: September 28, 2006 at 10:44 AM
Here's another, cheaper option: https://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=26_136&products_id=543




Posted By: jettagli03
Date Posted: September 28, 2006 at 11:10 AM
FYI --

Parts Express price $6.88
DIYCable price $10.50

Last time i checked $6.88 is cheaperposted_image

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Posted By: digdug18
Date Posted: September 28, 2006 at 5:55 PM

I really appreciate all the reply's on this thread.

My other question isnt answered though. Should I use poly fill inside the sub box? I know its used on home audio applications to supposably cancel standing waves, but will it work for an automotive application...

Andrew





Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: September 28, 2006 at 6:00 PM
Try it without polyfill first




Posted By: Steven Kephart
Date Posted: September 28, 2006 at 10:17 PM
jettagli03 wrote:

FYI --

Parts Express price $6.88
DIYCable price $10.50

Last time i checked $6.88 is cheaperposted_image


Doh, my bad. I saw the "each" on the price and figured it was for a single terminal.





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