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amp shutting off.

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=84300
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 10:20 PM


Topic: amp shutting off.

Posted By: TWISTEDTUK
Subject: amp shutting off.
Date Posted: October 18, 2006 at 5:48 PM

I have two power capasitors connected to two rockford fosgate amps. When I turn up to 3/4 volumn, my capasitor voltage is dropping below 9 volts and the amp shuts down. After about 3 seconds, it comes back on. 

I am currently running 2 1 farrad capasitors for two rockford fosgate 501s amps in the bridged mode.  Do I need to upgrade to a larger capasitor or is there something I'm missing? Thanks.




Replies:

Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: October 18, 2006 at 6:59 PM
Check your power and ground connections to both the capacitors and the amps. It sounds like you aren't getting the power from your vehicle you need to keep the amps running. Caps. will only supply current for a very short time. They help supply quick bursts of current to your amps for bass notes. If the vehicle's power supply can't stay above 12 volts when running, you probably have an alternator problem or a defect in the wiring to the amps. Use a digital volt meter to check your power supply system out. Try it with the caps disconnected first. At 3/4 volume, depending on the amps gain settings you are probably almost clipping the amp anyway.   

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sparky




Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: October 18, 2006 at 7:27 PM
check to see if there are any lights on the amp when it shuts off.
they are probably protecting themselves.
check your power and ground connection - if either of these are loose it will affect your performance

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Posted By: jonathancullen
Date Posted: October 19, 2006 at 2:11 PM
are you speakers/subwoofers showing the correct resistance to the amp?




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: October 19, 2006 at 3:21 PM
Well what vehicle do you have???





Posted By: crazziazz
Date Posted: October 19, 2006 at 7:37 PM
check your ohm load. sounds like you are running to low of an ohm load. 501s can only handle 2ohm stereo. i would recommend running 4ohm mono.




Posted By: opy1095
Date Posted: October 19, 2006 at 8:29 PM
like it was said earlier check your ohm load or altenator




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: October 21, 2006 at 3:08 AM

A simple solution.

Take a dmm and measure the voltage AT the battery terminals while the system is operating . Increase the volume level as you watch the voltage. It will drop some but if it's going any below 12v  while the car is running, your charging system is either not up to task, or has an issue. (defective alternator/regulator, too small a ga, or poor connection from alt. to batt......batt to ground)

If the voltage drops a little, but fairly stable as volume increases, the problem is with the power wire (too small a ga. or poor connection along the line, fuse perhaps, gotta check it tip to stern) could be the ground(s) as well (mentioned ealier), Use you meter and check the resistance from the - terminal of the amp to the grounding point for excessive resistance.

If you have any suspect readings, redo the ground (corrosion, poor connection, poor conductor or poor grounding point.

Once the voltage drop issue is corrected we can worry about ohms..this system has a votlage drop problem.

Keep us posted.



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Posted By: master5
Date Posted: October 21, 2006 at 3:41 AM

Hey nouse..I needed you today on tips. someone tried to hammerbag me but he was "served" and served HARD. Check it when you get a chance, topic was remote start related.

But to the problem at hand...

Are you sure another cap won't help this problem????

Don't they fix everything???  lol

The "magic" box?

I actually removed the cap from my system because I wanted the headlights to dim with the music but it didn't help..darn. I guess i'll just have to rewire my car with thinner wires.



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Posted By: TWISTEDTUK
Date Posted: October 24, 2006 at 3:03 PM

Thanks for the responce. Here are some of the information I left out.

The vehicle is a 98 Toyota Tacoma. I are running 3 Infinity Subs on the 2 Forgate amps. One 501 is on a 4 ohm Infinity Sub and the other 2 Infinity Subs are dual voice coils wired in series-parallel so the other 501 is seeing a 4 0hm load in bridged mode. 

I did notice a corrosion issue with my factory battery terminals but I replaced them with gold connections. My alternator is stock.  I was thinking about an upgrade but am not sure if I should look for a new alternator or have my original upgraded to larger amp output.  What do you think?

I was not having any issues with voltage drop until I adjusted the gain on my amps higher. I do not hear any distortion at 3/4's volumn and would really  hate to turn them down because they are hitting really hard.  If upgradeing the alternator would not fix this issue, I may have to turn the amps down a little.

Thanks, Twistedtuk.





Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: October 24, 2006 at 3:13 PM
Let me help you to answer your OWN question:

Have your OEM alternator rewired. Install it. Now, what happens if the re-wired alternator fails 6 months down the road? Can you replace it with the OEM alternator, even to keep you going until the upgraded (rewired) one is repaired? Seems you'll be stuck buying a new alternator anyway...

This is the VERY reason I always recommend actually buying an upgraded alternator, rather than rewiring.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 24, 2006 at 3:46 PM
Pick your posion on either upgrading alternators or having yours rebuilt(to higher amp), its a gamble either way imo. I installed an h.o. alternator 1 month ago for a customer it died on sunday now I have a very unhappy customer, luckily they saved the stock one so I can get them back on the road. So what I am saying is either way it can crap out whether its new or rebuilt. This is the only new ho alt I have had go bad so farposted_image.

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Posted By: master5
Date Posted: October 24, 2006 at 9:46 PM

Let me know the total RMS power of all your amplifiers @ 2ohms.  In addition, let me know the output rating (in amps) of your stock alternator.

I believe from what you stated you have one bridged @4ohm to 2 subs. The other is a single 4 ohm load bridged to an identical amp. So both amps are operating at 2ohms.

Regardless, this does not seem to me to be enough power to be dropping the voltage at the cap/amp to 9v due to the stock alternators rating, unless of course there is a problem with the alternator.

Do the tests I reccomended with the DMM. This is not to say you shouldn't upgrade your alternator anyhow. In reality the problem you are having will not go away by upgrading the alternator if the votlage drop issue is elsewhere in the system.



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Posted By: master5
Date Posted: October 24, 2006 at 9:56 PM

One more thing.

Are these "501's" mono amplifiers? If so, they are only seeing the 4 ohm load.  If this is the case those amps are using only half of thier RMS rated output.

Keep that in mind before spending money you don't need too ---



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