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Unique grounding in Jeep?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=85418
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 9:00 PM


Topic: Unique grounding in Jeep?

Posted By: porteeab
Subject: Unique grounding in Jeep?
Date Posted: November 10, 2006 at 12:45 AM

While researching a few minor issues for my planned Sirius, HU, and speaker install in my 2000 Wrangler I came across a few posts that have me concerned.

Can anyone tell me if there is anything unique about the 2000 Jeep Wrangler ground/power system that I need to be aware of?

The braided grounding strap at the back of my factory HU was new to me. What if anything does this mean for a HU install?

Can someone explain what a floating and or common ground is?

This will actually be the simplest system i've ever installed in one of my vehicles, no multiple amps, no eqs, no sound field procesors or changers.

Thanks


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4 cylinders and two tires



Replies:

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 10, 2006 at 1:32 AM

The install will be a snap for ya. The braided ground strap....use it, it's a ground. Nothing tricky about your rig at all.

Have fun.



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Posted By: druidpagen
Date Posted: November 10, 2006 at 3:48 AM

for a basic HU kar is correct use the braided wire it's "USUALY" not a problem. in function respect a ground is a ground in theory.but in pro-performance respect you should always run a new ground. this problem is more common in amplified set-ups. a ground w/ noise may not be audiable at low wattage ie a HU but once amplified might obtain a noticable alternator whine or other interferance. so to eliminate possible trouble shooting later or if you plan on adding an amp sometime in the future run a new ground. which is easy for a HU as you can usaully use the frame behind it and be ok.

im going on a whim here as you won't find the term in a dictionary. the terms are often confusing to some and mixed around. the differences between a a floating ground and a common ground  are minor AND major depending on how you look at it-which is even more confusing. hear goes this may be confusing lol i will give examples!

a FLOATING GROUND is a ground that shares ground with other components and grounds to the EXACT same point, ie it runs down a circuit and has other grounds connected to it and grounds to the same point.

EX-your negative speaker wire in car audio is a floating ground. all the negative leads run to the head unit and share the same ground (the ground you connect from the HU to the wireharness in your DIN opening). this ground is also a floating ground as it usually runs to the fuse box and anything running into the fuse box runs  through the same ground which in turn finally grounds to the chasis at the same exact point ( wich is why in some cases when you hit your turn signal you here a *blink blink* in your sound epuipment, this is actually refered to "GROUND LOOP" when this happens. this is also why good insallers run a NEW ground for the head unit as this may or may not happen.

a COMMON  ground is almost the same but also quite different. a common ground, also refered to a chassis ground in car audio or SWER ground in basic electrical. it uses uses a common ground source (but not the exact point) EX-the car chasis, the earth,or building frame while not all grounding to the same point they do ground to the same "source". a car EX would be the old style car speakers where the speakers ground to the frame, an amp ground,or a battery ground.

a common ground is always better than a floating ground. this is also why you should never ground to a negative battery post-it's one of the noisiest grounds in the car as every source leads to this point. any point in the engine bay should be avoided if possible as well as it's an extremely noisy grounding zone. you can easily pick up noises from your alternator, fuel injectors, radiator fan, and just about any other mechanical device.

if you want to actually hear how bad it is and want to find a quiet grounding point build a ground sniffer.

this is probably WAY more info than you wanted but othere may use the info and anyone feel free to copy and save the info future referance





Posted By: boulderguy
Date Posted: November 10, 2006 at 8:33 AM
Excellent explanation ^^




Posted By: 1lowgalant
Date Posted: November 10, 2006 at 8:10 PM
just about all chrysler vehicles(exept the newer ones) have the braided gound strap on the radio. i've never had a problem with a bad ground or noise using it.

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Whatever you do, DO NOT let the white smoke leak out of the wires.....




Posted By: porteeab
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 9:30 AM
Thanks for the input.

In the middle of the install right now, on my way to pick up some more heat shrink.

Later

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4 cylinders and two tires




Posted By: soultinter
Date Posted: November 11, 2006 at 1:21 PM
How would you build a "ground sniffer"?




Posted By: normalicy
Date Posted: November 16, 2006 at 11:37 AM
Yeah, I've actually found that if the factory has a braided ground that it tends to be pretty clean. It's the ones that are in the harness that get me.

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What is normal anyway???




Posted By: master5
Date Posted: November 16, 2006 at 1:53 PM

Yoy don't really need a ground sniffer these days. We used to bulid them out of old transistor radios. Just use a meter to find the best ground..if it's noisey..you have a built in sniffer..lol...reground elsewhere..no rocket science needed.



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Posted By: 1lowgalant
Date Posted: November 16, 2006 at 2:02 PM
yeah, i didn't know anyone still used a ground sniffer. agreed, a good meter is the best way to tell if you have a good ground.

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Whatever you do, DO NOT let the white smoke leak out of the wires.....





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