01 Audi A4, stereo system
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=85518
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 8:23 PM
Topic: 01 Audi A4, stereo system
Posted By: blacka4
Subject: 01 Audi A4, stereo system
Date Posted: October 24, 2006 at 5:29 PM
Can anyone tell me how to remove the metal tool tray basket in the wheel well of 01' Audi A4? I want to make a f/g enclosure for 1 - 10" Memphis 15-PR104 or 15-PR104D. (not sure which 1 to go with yet) But I need to figure out how to remove this basket so i can design the mold and figure out how to mount it. Thanks in advance
Replies:
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 2:25 PM
Ok I'll try to keep this short and sweet. I want 1 sub in the wheel well of my 01 A4. I have decided on a 10" Memphis, but which one the 15-PR104 or 15-PR104D? NEXT What cheap reliable amp would be good. I'm looking for somthing small in size also. My brother blew my Memphis 500d which would of been perfect.
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 2:28 PM
It depends on your amp. If it's 4-ohm stable, get the SVC model. If it's 2-ohm stable, get the DVC model. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 3:21 PM
Thanks for responding im not to sure what amp to get iv'e been out of the whole system scene for about 3yrs. so I dont know what's worth getting. Basically i want the most bang for the buck, and the buck being under $300. Does it make a difference in sound performance if i go with a 2-ohm stable amp or a 4-ohm stable amp? Sorry for the noob Q's
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 4:30 PM
Not a noticeable difference between 2 or 4 ohms...for under 300 bucks you can get the Elemental Designs 9.2x...600 watts at 4 ohms
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 4:44 PM
You could also check out these amps (400.2 or 600.2), retail from 240-300. Compact, good power, and clean looking. I have sold/installed quite a few and have been impresed with product quality. -------------
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 4:45 PM
Hey thank's for the info. but where do I find one of those amps. I did a yahoo search and all that comes up are forums asking about those amps.
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 4:57 PM
ASA 600.2 for $153 before shipping...I've bought from this site without any problems https://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/ASA%20600.2/detail.asp
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 7:24 PM
I just want to thank all of your input, it's helped clear things up for me. But I do have 1 last Q. Does it matter if i run a 1 or 2 channel amp since im only pushing 1 speaker which has a rating of 250 rms/ 500 max @ 4 ohm? It shouldn't right as long as i load the amp the right way? Again, I thank all of you guys for your help.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 9:55 PM
I also forgot to ask what is the best type of adapter to get a signal to my amp from my stock "symphony" head unit and what should i expect to pay?
Posted By: master5
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 11:41 PM
It does not matter if you use a one or two channel. As long as they are 2 ohm stable. Make sure not to crank the gains too high or you could blow the sub. The adaptors I use for connecting to a factory deck is the PAC PSI2 adjustable line output converter. Have had great luck with them, probably installed 100 this year and not one came back. We sell them for about 23 bucks. Avoid a really cheapo one because those can have problems. You can find those at almost anyplace that sells car audio. And remember, for a one channel amp use a DVC sub with dual 4ohm voice coils. with a 2 channel you want a 4 ohm SVC or a DVC with dual 2ohm voice coils. Once you get the sub/amp combo post if you need help wiring it up. We are glad to help. Take care. -------------
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: November 04, 2006 at 11:54 AM
I have a 01 Audi A4 and i want to run my wires but i have a problem. The back seat folds down but there is still about a 6" section between the seat and door that i cant figure out how to remove. I tried to just pull it but got scared that i was going to break it. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Posted By: ferretvw
Date Posted: November 04, 2006 at 11:27 PM
On most vehicles you first need to take out the bottom of the back seat and then there will be a bolt on the bottom of that small section then pull upward (towards the roof) and it should slide out easily. if not some also bolt from the trunk behind all the trunk liner.
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2008 Scion xB
Pioneer AVIC-D3
RF 3Sixty.2 sound processor
Stock speakers (for now ;))
Posted By: nyvr6
Date Posted: November 05, 2006 at 9:11 PM
On the side of the seat there are the leather bolsters with the metal bars that the seats lock into. Unscrew the bars, pull the bolsters off and this is the best way to run your wire's into the trunk on these vehicles. Dont really have to take backrests of but if I remember correctly they lock into a bar in the middle section, fold seats down look in lower mid section and that should be the trick.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: November 07, 2006 at 11:17 AM
I just checked the seat and there is a bolt under the seat and it seems to slide up. The next day i get off work im going to take a stab at it. Thank you for the help guys.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: November 12, 2006 at 11:52 AM
I cant find any wire diagrams for an 01 A4. I need a diagram for the stock symphony radio and also any diagram needed for a remote start. Thank you in advance for any info you can provide me.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 18, 2006 at 9:57 PM
Audi 2001 A4 4DR Sedan (Remote Start / Security / GPS)
![posted_image]() Remote start / security / GPS | Wire/Function | Colour | Location/Description | Polarity | | PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT | YES | TRANSPONDER | SEE NOTES | | 12 VOLTS | Red | On bottom of fuseblock | + | | IGNITION | Black | On bottom of fuseblock | + | | ACCESSORY | Yellow/black | On bottom of fuseblock | + | | STARTER | RED / black | On bottom of fuseblock | + | | STARTER 2 | Blue | At steering column | | | | | This wire is not always present at the ignition switch but when it is, it must be connected for remote start or the battery will not charge and the light will come on in the dash. A pulse at crank activates this wire and the wire then stays on. It can not simply be tied in to the starter circuit or the starter will grind on remote start. You must use a relay off the primary starter line to power this wire at crank. |
| | KEY SENSE | Red or BROWN / red | Ignition switch harness | + | | TACH SIGNAL | See notes | | | | | | Use the GREEN/ BLUE at pin-7 of the ECM located in the left rear corner of the engine compartment in a plastic casing. The signal from the injectors is very low voltage and will not work for most remote starters. |
| | FUEL INJECTOR | Opposite of BLACK/ blue | At any injector on engine | AC | | LOCK | BROWN / white | In driver's kickpanel | - | | | | These wires can also be found at the factory alarm under the back seat on the driver's side. |
| | UNLOCK | Gray/white | In driver's kickpanel | - | | | | This wire requires a double pulse to unlock all the doors, the first pulse only disarms the factory alarm. These wires can also be found at the factory alarm under the back seat on the driver's side. |
| | DOORPIN | BROWN / white | In DKP or alarm module | - | | | | These wires can also be found at the factory alarm under the back seat on the driver's side. |
| | HOODPIN | Gray/red | At pin or alarm module | - | | | | These wires can also be found at the factory alarm under the back seat on the driver's side. |
| | TRUNK PIN | WHITE/ black | At light in trunk | - | | TRUNK RELEASE | Yellow/red | At release switch in dash | + | | FACTORY ARM | Arms with lock wire | | | | FACTORY DISARM | Disarms with unlock wire | | | | BRAKESWITCH | RED / black | At switch above brake pedal | + | | PARKLIGHTS | Gray/black & Gray/red | At light switch harness | + | | | | Left & right parklights are independent and must be isolated with diodes, See TIP diagram |
| | HAND BRAKE | BROWN / white | At switch on base of handbrake | - | | HORN | BROWN / yellow | At steering column | - | | CLUTCH SWITCH | BROWN / blue | At plug above clutch pedal | TYPE 2 | | DRIVER WINDOW UP | BLACK / YELLOW | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | | DRIVER WINDOW DOWN | Yellow/blue | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | | PASSENGER WINDOW UP | White | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | | PASSENGER WINDOW DOWN | BLACK/ green | At switch in driver's door | REV POL | | LEFT REAR WINDOW UP | Yellow/black | At switch in center console | REV POL | | LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN | Black | At switch in center console | REV POL | | RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP | GREEN/ YELLOW | At switch in center console | REV POL | | RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN | WHITE/ black | At switch in center console | REV POL | | HEADLIGHTS | Yellow | At light switch harness | + | | REVERSE LIGHTS | Blue/red | DKP in harness to back of vehicle | + | | DIMMER | Gray/blue | At dimmer switch in dash | + | | VSS WIRE | WHITE/ blue | Behind instrument cluster | | | | | Pin-3 on the T32 connector. This wire can also be found at the ECM under the hood in the left rear corner, pin-20 on the 80-pin connector. The cruise control module behind the glove compartment also has this wire at pin-9. |
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![posted_image]() Available Notes | PLEASE NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with a TRANSPONDER passive anti-theft system. A bypass module may be available which will not require a key. Contact your supplier to find out. If one is not available to you, please see the appropriate security diagram before any remote start installation.
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Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 18, 2006 at 10:00 PM
Is your system a Bose? -------------
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: November 20, 2006 at 9:43 AM
No its not the bose system.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 1:01 PM
Thank you for the diagram.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 05, 2006 at 10:35 AM
Are Dual amps worth buying? I have 1 10" Memphis 15-PR104D and I want a small cheap amp that i can get at a local store. I was hoping to get something about the size of a PS2 like the Memphis 500D that my little brother fried.
Posted By: ss-installer
Date Posted: December 05, 2006 at 10:50 AM
memphis / dual ? no comparison. memphis 500d is 500rms@2ohm. a dual 500 is probably 50rms@4ohm. have the bad amp serviced if you can.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 05, 2006 at 11:00 AM
Also should i be buying a 2ch or a mono block for the speaker i have? Thanks for any help
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: December 05, 2006 at 11:20 AM
Don't buy Dual if you can avoid it. Get a mono amp. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: specialaudio
Date Posted: December 11, 2006 at 8:00 PM
mono is the way to go if you have one sub, it can put out max amount of power in a single channel....
just be aware, you gotta watch you dont over power that sub since it can only do 200w rms,
use a bit bigger wire too....
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93' Cutlass
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 14, 2006 at 1:10 PM
Ok i have narrowed it down to 2 amps for my 10" Memphis PR dual voice coil, but which one? Both are mono sub amps and class D 1. Alpine V-power MRP-M450 2. Memphis 300D
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 16, 2006 at 8:13 PM
OK I bought the Alpine amp but i am having a problem locating the stock amp for the interior speaker's. I have been told that it is in the trunk by the rear speaker's but it is not. This is not the bose system so what do i do? All i need to do is hook up a line out converter for my sub signal. Will there be a problem if i just splice into the wire at the rear speaker's?
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 17, 2006 at 6:19 AM
Assuming there's no factory sub, this should work fine. If there is a factory sub (I don't believe there is), use those wires. The factory amp may be in one of the rear quarter panels (I think passenger side).
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 21, 2006 at 4:16 PM
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 21, 2006 at 5:40 PM
Look underneath the vehicle where the sub box goes and check for any obstructions. If there are none, drill a few holes through the bottom of the box and floor (remove the sub for access), and bolt the box down. Use some fairly large washers when dealing with fiberglass.
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 21, 2006 at 7:18 PM
There is no place to bolt to on the bottom because there is a hole under the box. I thought of maybe using velcrow but that just dont seem strong enough. I also thought about magnets but that dont seem practical.
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 22, 2006 at 6:49 PM
What about behind it? Is the metal behind it the outer sheetmetal? If not, you may be able to remove the rear quarter panel and bolt it in place there. That's how mine are secured.
If it is the exterior sheet metal, you should be able to fab up a bracket to bolt it in place. In the pics you posted, it looks like there's some factory bracing there you should be able to tie into. The home improvement store should have some 14 gauge metal strip with holes already in it.
You can bend up some of this stuff with a hammer/vise pretty easily. Then just attach it to some factory bracing about where you think it should be behind the box. Slide a body nut (also available at the hardware store- Lowe's carries them, not sure about Home Depot- or go to AutoZone) over one of the holes and thread a bolt through so the end of the threads are sticking out a little bit towards the box.
Put some white-out, hand lotion, or something similar on the end of the bolt, and try to slide the box in place. If the white-out, etc. left a mark on the back of your box, you know where to drill your hole. If your box still sticks out too much (or the bolt didn't make contact), tweak the bracket until you get it right.
This is not the only way to do this, I'm just trying to explain one way of doing it, which may give you some ideas of another alternative. For example, you may instead decide to secure it underneath with a similar bracket. You may also decide to drill a hole(s) in the box first, and tweak your bracket(s) to work. Whatever you're comfortable with is fine as long as the end result means a secured enclosure. Use your imagination. I prefer to hide the mounting hardware whenever possible by bolting down from the inside, but it's all up to you.
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 23, 2006 at 11:33 AM
What i ended up doing is- take a piece of threaded rod, put a nut, metal washer then rubber washer, feed the box onto it then added a rubber washer, metal washer and nut. Works like a charm. Now all i have to do is run my power and tap a remote off the fuse box. Thank all of you for your help. Chris
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 23, 2006 at 4:51 PM
Sounds good.
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 26, 2006 at 1:37 PM
Ok i am having a problem hooking up the RCA's to the rear speaker's. I found a link that told me to splice my RCA's to the left rear speaker. Here are the directions i got. Cut rca's in half, strip 3" off the end of each lead. Twist outer bundle shielding together on both wires. Trim the common ground bundle to half an inch. You will now have a wire with 2 rca's on 1 end and three wires on the other. (Remember, one for each signal {left and right} and one for both grounds. Connect the common ground lead to the brown wire with red stripe. Connect the left ch. wire to the blue wire w/green stripe. Connect the right ch. wire to the blue wire w/red stripe. My rca's have a + & - wire along with stranded wire for each channel. Can i get some help with this its really getting me frustrated.
Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 26, 2006 at 7:06 PM
Ignore the advice you found. While you can get sound that way, it's not the right way to do it. Running a high level (speaker level) signal into the low level (rca) inputs of an amp can easily damage the amplifier. If your amp has high level inputs, you try connecting those directly to your rear speaker leads. However, I suggest you use a quality, adjustable line out converter. Your local stereo shop should have one available for you. Explain what you're doing, and they should match you up with the right one for your application.
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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 27, 2006 at 10:06 AM
I tried the rca's 1st but after i got frustrated scraped that idea and started to hook up the LOC that i bought. I am going to try to just tap the lines at the speaker's. It's a bit confusing since the speaker system has a common ground and the LOC has 4 wires (a + & - for each line) and an additional ground. What am i supposed to hook the LOC ground too? The speaker grounds or just some metal in the trunk?
Posted By: blacka4
Date Posted: December 27, 2006 at 4:24 PM
Disregard the post above i fixed everything and it sounds great.
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