extra battery

i wanna run an extra batter for the audi stuff, i have, boss audio makes something thats helps do that, does it work?  and how do you wire it up

I don't know the specific part from Boss but one way to properly add a battry is with a battery isolator. You run the alt wire to a post..then there is another post for battery "A" and another post for battery "B". It should be set up so both batteries recieve a charge from the alternator but if using the accesories while the vehicle is not running they run off the "B" battery. This way if you run it down there is always a charged battery to start the car (A).

Does this sound like what you are thinking about?

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yes  i think i got it now i just gotta get a isolator

Get this...reliable...better than whatever crappy boss audio can make

https://www.sonicelectrnix.com/item_5287.html

That pac unit is one of the best on the market.. not as flashy as something stinger would make but by far the most reliable for the price... I have used many of those...

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I dont care about who has the bigger name in the business... The Bigger the name the Bigger the price. NO BETTER QUALITY!!!

Yes...PAC is more function than looks.

I hate everything Stinger because its all overpriced because it has the "Stinger" name on it

xtremeimage,

I am doing my second install now, both with battery isolators. I had no experience with them in the past but did some research on them to determine what units out there were of decent quality. In the end, I selected Sure Power.

Depending on your alternator output, these isolators can get pretty big. For my Dodge Ram, the unit was about a 10" long.. For my Toyota Avalon, , the unit was half that length. In both cases, I had to fabricate a bracket to mount them to the firewall.

So far with the Ram, it's all good - working as designed. The Avalon is still in process.

I was able to find the Sure Power isolators from various sources. I ended up ordering from Dan Marc RV Parts.

Best of luck on your project.

Jim (newbie to this forum)

The physical size of the isolator..all else being equal, would have to do with it's current rating.

You need to determine the total current demands to determine which isolator to use. If you use one with too low a rating..you will burn it out in no time flat. You can't really go too big as far a current rating..it would just be overkill, no harm done..but of course you need to consider the physical space you have to mount the unit as well.

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Knowing the output amperage of my alternators, I purchased the Sure Power isolators that matched the max output of the alternators. In the case of the Ram, the isolator was rated for about 20 amps beyond my alternators output rating as that was the closest match. But yeah, that thing was massive.

Jim

Well a Ram is a massive vehicle..lol   But I totally get where you are coming from..the thing is that the alternator being able to supply the current demands of what is being ran off it is the main issue with some of the very high powered systems these guys put in these days.

For someone like yourself current demand of the devices you using does not come close to exceeding the demands of the factory alternator..so you simply use one that at least matches its rating. But with the mega watt systems out there aside from consdieration of upgrading the alternator..you also need to use the current rating of the amplifiers to determine what isolator you need..if they just went by the factory alternators rating, or by the model of vehicle..I wouldn't give it a day.

Take care.

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The PAC unit I posted is able to handle 200 amps continuous...unless you have a pretty serious sub system I don't see why it wouldn't work

Well azn..good point. I guess as long as the total current draw of everything does not exceed 200amps, I also can not see why it wouldn't work.

Does anyone know if they still make H/O dual output alternators? I have not seen any in a while since I don't really do much comp anymore. At the last shop where we did alot of comp (in Tennessee) there was a company called PPI..(not the same as the amp company) that would build us these awesome custom alternators with virtually any current rating we requested (not cheap BTW) with dual outputs so we didn't use isolators in those cases..and they used massive external rectifiers and adjustable external regulators. The only thing is as with other HO alternators they did not really put out much above 12v at idle..but give it some gas and I swear these would easily put out 16 volts if we wanted them too (probably not a good idea)...set up properly along with zero gauging the big 3 you would never have light dimming no matter how much you cranked the system.

I know the company does not exist anymore but just curious if that type of product is still available..for competition systems they really were perfect. And we made plenty of money installing them since they were huge so we usually always had to weld and fabricate brackets.

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Funny how the PAC relay and the Stinger relay look the same except for the sticker each company puts on the mounting bracket. As far as price the one linked to is $49.99 and I get them for $34.66 ?. Seems like the PAC is more than the Stinger model. I can pretty much guess that PAC and Stinger buy them from another company as i've seen the same picture of this style relay and they look identical. Not that a picture shows everything but down to the same mold casting marks and rivets ?. Too many similiarities. I've run both on my cars through the years and have only had one fail. Do not confuse these relays with cheaper models. Some relays and solenoids are made for continous use while others for momentary so research them before buying.

Jim

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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street