planning a wiring kit

I'm about to install two amps in my trunk. A 600x1 class D and a 50x4 A/B amp. I'm thinking I can run a 4ga back to the trunk, then use a splitter block to go to dual 8ga's. Then, 8ga grounds will come out of the two amps, into another splitter block, back to 4ga and then to a single ground point. Is this a good plan? I also want to get a capacitor. Should 1 farad be enough? Also, what is the best way to integrate a capacitor into the above wiring setup?

I'm thinking that since caps basically get wired in parallel to amps, that maybe instead of a 2 way distribution block I could get a 4 way. I'm not sure if they make 1 4ga to 3 or 4 8ga splitters, but if so...then maybe have the 4ga split into 3 wires. One goes to each amp, the 3rd goes into a cap. Then, the grounds come out of each amp and the cap, and all 3 are joined back together for the ground.

This is my first time at really building a true show quality system, with quality wiring, so I want to make sure I'm doing it efficiently and properly. I appreciate all input you guys can give me. Thanks!

Yes, that's a good plan...in answer to the first question.  Second, if you want to use a cap it doesn't really matter if it's one farad or ten or a hundred, but if you use one put it directly in front of the sub amp.  It should be grounded separately to chassis to avoid possible noise issues.

This reply refers to your first paragraph.  The second paragraph made my eyes glaze over...but I'm betting we don't have to go there anyway.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

If you INSIST on having a cap, get one with the integrated distro block... Stinger, Monster, RF... Many different brand names have them with such accessories.

I would forego the cap, in favor of a high output alternator, and upgrading the wiring under your hood, it'll do FAR more for you than a cap will...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Well, it's a 600 watt class D amp...and from my experience with 500 watt class D amps in the past, those did fine without capacitors. I was just thinking it might be nice to have to help filter the power for the two amps...but if you guys think it might be okay without it, I might try it that way.

Also, I'm going to be putting the amps into a small enclosed stealth amp rack, so I'll probably get some fans to pump air over the heatsinks. Obviously it's all going to run based on the remote lead from the head unit. I'm curious as to the best way to handle the electronics of it all. I'll need to split the remote lead 3 ways once it gets to the trunk. Is it okay to solder 3 wires to the end of it, with one going to each of 2 amps, then the 3rd going to the relay that powers the fans? Or is there a safer way to run a remote lead to multiple devices?

Also, to power the fans, since they're low power, is it safe to just tap into the holes in the distribution block? I guess a better way to explain it would be that the distro block has an 8ga output, which goes to an amp. I take the 16-18ga or so wire that powers the fans, and just stuff it into that 8ga output along with the amp's wiring lead? I'm just trying to figure out a good and safe way to get power to the fans without having to run an additional power cord to the back. Thanks.

Look in the left blue column under Relays.  https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#rtol

You can use the distro for your 12 volt source.  The amperage pull will be minimal.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Ahh so the fans can be powered by the same power that feeds the amp turn-on leads? No need for a relay to seperate the fans from the turn-on leads of the amps?

not exactly. The relay will make the remote+ (from head unit) just sort of a switch, and the actual power that will be used will be the power from the battery. It will just know when to turn on because of that remote wire and relay.

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99 Blazer LT.   Yellow Top. Big 3. Infinity Kappa Speakers All Around. Jensen CD/DVD flip out. 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12DVQs powered by a Alpine PDX600.1 (in one custom box, building a FG box)

Right, I understand that...I'm just verifying that it's safe if the power that the relay switched on/off will be feeding the fans PLUS the turn-on's for the two amps. Usually I keep my systems fairly simple, but this time I guess I'm going all out. My systems have always sounded amazing, but this time I want one that also looks amazing, yet remains hidden. ;) My last system had all CDT speakers, a Memphis amp, and Dayton subs. This time, it's all Diamond, except the head unit and wiring.

I'm even thinking about using just Stinger hardware and plain old scosche for the actual wiring. Shouldn't really matter too much as long as it's stranded copper.

Yes...for the relay it will turn on the amps AND power the fans.

The head unit alone cannot do all of this as you probably know...about your suggestion about powering the fans from the distribution block...that would be a constant wire and the fans would be on until your battery is dead

aznboi3644 wrote:

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about your suggestion about powering the fans from the distribution block...that would be a constant wire and the fans would be on until your battery is dead

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Not if one of the outputs of the distribution block goes through a relay. ;) I'm actually leaning towards putting a switch on each of my amp remote wires, so I can independantly turn them off. If I want to shut down the subwoofer for any reason, such as carrying certain things in my trunk, or whatever...then I can simply flip a switch. Same goes with highs. Just in case I decide to put my car in an SPL comp, I can turn off the 4ch amp and avoid it being counted in my classification. Not likely that I'll compete SPL with this setup, I've done plenty of that in the past, but I like to keep my options open. ;)