amp power. can’t find a hole.

i'm going to be running a 4 gauge to the trunk of my 2002 Chrystler Concorde LXI. but i can't find a hole in the engine fire wall to feed the power wire in to the car. I've taken alot of the panels from under the dash and part of the a/c ducting, but still no joy. but i did find the factory infinity power amp in the lower right kick panel.  Haven't pulled the factory radio out nor have i pulled the factory 4 in dash cd player and also don't plane on pulling them out, just want a little more bass. all i need is a way to feed the cable in to the car. 

any help would be great

wlatino30 wrote:

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Haven't pulled the factory radio out nor have i pulled the factory 4 in dash cd player and also don't plane on pulling them out, just want a little more bass.  

any help would be great

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How are you going to turn on the amp that's I'm guessing will be connected to this 4 gauge wire ?. Behind the radio or by the amp you found there should be an activation wire to use.

Where are you getting the audio signal from for this added amp ?.

Ideally get the male and female harness adaptors (like the ones from Aamp of America BHA1818 and the BHO1818 or the Metra ones 70-1818 and 71-1818) for behind the factory radio and you can then easily get an activation wire and get the front output wires off of the radio to run into your amplifier.

Jim

hopefully drilling threw the fire wall won't be my only option i have, but i do understand the process now of doing it that way. but if someone has the info of a pre-excisting hole in the fire fall i would perfer that way being that i still have a bumper to bumper warrenty on the car. 

jim, you meen the remote wire? i had planned on using power from the cig lighter being that it only is on if the car is on. as for signal i'm going to tap into the 6x9's in the trunk to the speaker level inputs of the amp. although i have never heard of the products you speack of. but i geuss its worth looking into. thank jim.

wlatino30 wrote:

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jim, you meen the remote wire? i had planned on using power from the cig lighter being that it only is on if the car is on. as for signal i'm going to tap into the 6x9's in the trunk to the speaker level inputs of the amp. although i have never heard of the products you speack of. but i geuss its worth looking into. thank jim.

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Yes, the remote wire. Since you are worried about voiding your warranty I would check this out: 

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=magnuson-moss+warranty+act+of+1975

By using these adaptors NO factory wire for the audio system or wire for a cigarette lighter needs to be cut into. You can then use the FRONT outputs of the radio to power your factory amplifier and the front speakers and be able to "Y" off with these adaptors to give you a left and right signal to go to your sub amplifier. By using the front outputs you can fade more or all to the front and have more of a front stage with bass. If you use the rear outputs then if you fade to the front speakers the bass level will go down. I understand people using the rear speaker wires as most of the time they are easy to get at but do it right. Not too many people go to a concert with their back to the stage. Keep the subs wired to the front channels. These adaptors retail about $10-15 each. Buy about 15' of 5 conductor wire to get the signal and turn on from the radio back to your amp. If the amp doesn't have speaker level input then place the line level adaptor in the rear by the amp. Doing so and not running long RCA cables you have a hotter signal going down the sills for less chance of induced noise.

https://rides.webshots.com/photo/1209979080049730488tLZMUU

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=custom+harness+adaptors+krystaldesigns

Jim

sin0cide wrote:

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even tho you don't drill a whole putting a sub in the car is still probley gunna void the warrenty

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