capacitor
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=88095
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 7:52 PM
Topic: capacitor
Posted By: twiztid_killa
Subject: capacitor
Date Posted: December 30, 2006 at 11:08 PM
i just recently bought a 5 farad power acoustik capacitor and i got a generic owners manual, but i wired it up, positive to pos, negative to neg, and let it sit and charge for a couple hrs like the manual said.... after that i turned the system on and it still dimmed the lights and sounded the same, is there somewere i went wrong or do i need another battery to provide the rest of the power? i figured the 5 farad would be more than enough since im pushing 3400 watts im open to options im new to the cap situation.... let me know thanks Lane ------------- L-Mac
03 S-10 Extreme 4.3 Vortec
76 Caddy Sedan Deville 500 CID
69 Buick Wildcat 430-4
87 regal
Replies:
Posted By: 90s civ and sub
Date Posted: December 31, 2006 at 12:59 AM
Keep in mind that capacitors (regardless of size) are only a storage medium. Remember there's no replacement for amperage. So if you're running an amp rated @ 500 watts RMS with a 5 Farad cap, and a stock alternator, you won't see a noticeable change in stereo performance. I own a Civic that had a 60 amp alternator. My sub amp is rated at only 320 watts RMS. When I'd crank the stereo 3/4 of the way up, my lights would dim, big time. I swapped my stock alternator with a 135 amp, high output unit . Not only do my headlights stay bright, but I've eliminated the use for a capacitor altogether. Not saying that capacitor's are bad news, but with the cash you spent on that cap, you could've purchased a high output alternator, with a heavy duty (4 gauge or heavier) amp wire kit. Hope this helps
Posted By: twiztid_killa
Date Posted: December 31, 2006 at 8:03 AM
that makes sense, i was just testing it out because ive heard about caps being able to stop that a couple places, but yeah thanks for the info, im not 100% sure what my alt. is running, i have an 03 s-10 that its in at the current, and i do have the 4 gauge wiring for the system as well, thanks for the insite man
-------------
L-Mac
03 S-10 Extreme 4.3 Vortec
76 Caddy Sedan Deville 500 CID
69 Buick Wildcat 430-4
87 regal
Posted By: 90s civ and sub
Date Posted: December 31, 2006 at 10:31 AM
No problem. You said you're running 3400 watts. Assuming that's your system's MAX output, use 1700 watts (about 50%) as your RMS output. Go to the car audio section of this website, click on recommended power & ground cable sizes, and use the data as a guide. The chart only goes up to 1400 watts, but it should be sufficient enough to give you a ball park of how heavy a wire & how large an alternator to look into. ------------- 90 Civic DX Hatchback- 135 amp alternator
92 Suburban - 200 amp alternator
Stereo rebirth, coming soon. . . .
Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: December 31, 2006 at 7:58 PM
if you do a search on this forum...everyone here hates caps.
Caps do not help with major voltage dropping issues...they are a band aid...a very crappy band aid for a bullet wound as someone here said.
I would highly suggest you upgrade your big three (refer to sticky) and if you truely are pushing 3400 watts and you will need atleast 0 gauge power wire.
What are your amp and sub models??? I gaurantee that you are not pushing 3400 watts...I doubt even 1000 true watts
Posted By: jlord16
Date Posted: January 01, 2007 at 2:07 AM
Caps will only work if there is anought power to supply them. A HO alt and a wiring upgrade should solve the problem ------------- Clarion DB36MP
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10"
Respone 800w Mono
ALPINE MRP-F250
*Custom fabrications*
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