Wiring 2 4-Ohm DVC Subs Going Crazy

Ok, here is what I have.

Im running 2 Alpine type-r 4ohm DVC subs into 2 Pioneer 5200T amps.

Im looking for the best way to wire each sub to its own amplifier.

the amplifier is capable of handling a sub at 4-ohm bridged.  If i run each sub in series (8 ohm load) and bridge them both seperately on their own amp, will it then drop the ohm load to 4 ohms and push the correct amount of power to my subs? 

I currently have each sub wired in parallel and it is running at 2 ohms per sub.  I then bridged it onto the amp, I think i messed this one up and could blow my amp if i keep running the subs at this configuration.  Im pulling my hair out here trying to figure out how i need to wire these subs.

Can wiring the subs at too low of an ohm rating cause the subs to cut in and out while playing them?  Or do I also have a power issue in my car?

Wow, thats pretty much the worst news I could have gotten today lol.  I bought all this stuff online, so returning this equipment to a store is pretty much out of the question.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-5QHGL9duvYN/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=130GM7200M

would this be a better choice of amplifier?  If it looks like this will work perfectly with these 2 subs, I will go out and buy these 2 today and just throw the 2 amps I have now in my other car with my old subs.  I was really hoping to not have to drop another 300 dollars into this system but if it is the option that gives me the best sound, Im all about making the sacrifice.

I really do like Pioneer for amps, but I am not necessarily stuck on Pioneer when purchasing a new amp.  Right now my whole system looks like it was mismatched and paired up by different companies from all over the world.  I have Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, Kicker, Infinity, Rockford, and Memphis all in my car.  I know where I can get these 800 watt amps for a good deal though, so i was wondering if the 2 800 watt mono blocks would do the trick on these subs?

prodigal wrote:

---

Questions:
Doesn't running 8 ohms require a greater current draw fron the battery cause i've known of cases where people running 8 ohm have to be adding battery water very often to their battery

Does running 1 voice coil have any effect on the speaker. If a dual voice coil speaker is rated at say 200 watts rms can you feed 200 watts into 1 voice coil or can you feed a higher wattage if the voice coils are combined?

---

"Running 8 ohm" will require less amplifier power than lower impedance loads so it will place less of a strain on a vehicle electrical system.  Your friends who are adding water to their batteries either need new batteries or better charging systems in their vehicles, it has nothing to do with an 8-ohm speaker load.  There is a long sticky thread about using one VC on a DVC speaker that you should read, but in general you need to de-rate the power handling to about 75%; meaning if your DVC speaker is rated at "200 watts" you need to use no more than 150 watts to one VC.

Well I went out and bought 2 800 watt mono block Pioneer amps.  They run at 2 ohms stable, so they work perfectly for pushing out the power I need for the 2 alpine type-r 12s.  I am supposed to be getting 380 watts to each sub.  With the subs rated at 500 watts rms, it should be safe for both my amplifiers and subs to run them the way I have them set up now.

Only problem now is that I am drawing way too much amperage from my amplifier, and they subs cut out after about a minute of loud playing.  They will cut out, then come back, then go back out, waiting on more power from the alternator in battery is what I am assuming.

The Pioneer 7200M amplifier has 2 30A fuses on it.  But the specifications sheet says it pulls 33A at continuous power at 4ohms.  16A current draw for mono at 2ohms.  Is there a difference between the current draw and current consumption?  And which number should I use when choosing a HO alternator?  If both amps are taking 33A each, then the 66A total from both amps and around 15A for my head unit, then Im adding about 80A of pull from my alternator and the factory electrical system.  Should I just buy a HO alternator that is rated at least 80A higher than my factory 80A alternator?  I have commited to a 130A alternator on ebay, but have not heard back from the seller, so I may have to cancel that alternator and buy another one.  Do you think a 130A alternator will be able to handle the draw and give me full power from both amps onto my subs, or should I tell the guy I dont want the 130 and get something larger?

Thank you for all of your comments so far, they have helped me build a larger and better sounding stereo system, I am almost done, just trying to put on the finishing touches now.

Don't go with an alternator yet. Read the sticky regarding upgrading the "Big 3". Start there before doing anything else. It's the cheapest and easiest way to make sure you are getting the most from your charging system. Even if you beef up the alternator, the "Big 3" are going to be what is limiting the supply of power to your amps and back to your battery. Once you do that upgrade, if you are still having problems, the discussion can resume regaring an upgraded alternator. You can simply throw money at the problem, but if you do so with some direction, you can get the most bang for your buck.

That would be my opinion.

strykerzx wrote:

---

Only problem now is that I am drawing way too much amperage from my amplifier, and they subs cut out after about a minute of loud playing. 

---

That's a gain level adjustment.  They are not waiting for more power from the car's source when they cut out.  You need to set the amp gains correctly.

once you set your gains properly--check your voltage right at the amp

while you have them playing.  most new amps out there wont actually shut

down until your below 11 volts.  I have never seen a need for an electrical system

upgrade- running just 2 small class D amps.. and come to think of it --check the impedence of your

subs wired up--with a dmm--to make sure you have a 2ohm load and are in fact wired up

correct.

g/l