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constant 12v+ killing battery

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=89944
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 8:46 AM


Topic: constant 12v+ killing battery

Posted By: claymore
Subject: constant 12v+ killing battery
Date Posted: February 02, 2007 at 4:27 PM

The vehicle is a 1991 Plymouth Sundance 4dr. A few weeks ago the car wouldn't start, so I charged replaced the battery, and the next day that one was dead too. So my dad sat in the car and started pulling fuses while I held a test light between the positive terminal of the battery and the battery cable. When he pulled the fuse marked "dome", the light went out, indicating something on that circuit was drawing enough power to kill the battery overnight. Now, unfortunately, the radio doesn't work either. I pulled the dash apart and started testing wires, and the constant 12V+ has no power. I plugged a fuse back in and got power, but only a very small amount. Now I know what the problem is, but I'm stumped for a solution. Thoughts?



Replies:

Posted By: duct tape
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 10:06 AM
check to see if the 12volt cigarette lighter outlet is part of that circuit.  if it is, try disconnecting it and see if you still get a current draw. 

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Posted By: Custom_Jim
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 10:17 AM

Put the light inline again on the battery cable and then make sure the door is closed and disconnect the radio. If the light stays off or is very very dim then plug the radio back in. If it gets a lot brighter then the radio is the problem. You might have had the doors open when the fuse was in and the test light inline causing a false reading. Also check to see if when that fuse is removed the underhood or trunk light goes out if you even have these. Most of those I think were on mercury switches and even though the opening might be closed the light may be on.

When you are saying after the fuse was put back in you got power but only a very small amount was it a low amount in voltage like 6 volts or something or did you have the test light inline still on the battery and it didn't burn as bright ?.

Jim



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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street




Posted By: warpedimage3
Date Posted: February 06, 2007 at 11:18 AM
you can go a local hardware store and by a cheap dmm for $20 and know exactly how much voltage you have and how much current the radio is drawing instead of worrying how bright the test light is.





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