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subs and ohms

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90221
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 3:21 PM


Topic: subs and ohms

Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Subject: subs and ohms
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 4:12 PM

my subs i have 2 singel 4ohm and 1 dule 4ohm sub the guy at sound factory showed me and drew a dieagram of how to hook them up in sequence. but you all no more about what i want spl and good sound. i need the amp b4 i get the box build so im looking to get one in the next few weeks. but i also herd that the dule sub will be the only one moveing and makeing noise is this true?



Replies:

Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 4:48 PM

They're obviously not all identical subs, but if they are not same brand and size...wipe the slate clean and don't use this combination.  No use buying an amp or amps for a sub combo that won't behave.  Now, if they are same brand and size, all being equal except for coil configuration, and you insist on using all three of them, use separate amplifiers.  You want to be able to control the power so that all three subs perform the same (as much as is possible).

A two channel amp for the two single coils and a mono amp for the DVC.  You could also look into the 5 channel amps and you'll have a pair of channels left over for the front speakers.

But nevertheless, post model numbers of these beasts per forum guidelines for best advice.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:06 PM
thay are all 10inh and 4 ohms




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:18 PM
stevdart wrote:

But nevertheless, post model numbers of these beasts per forum guidelines for best advice.

This means for example "Honda (i.e. MANUFACTURER) Civic (i.e. MODEL) 2 door (i.e. SPECIFICATION)". 10 inch 4 ohm, means NOTHING.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: aznboi3644
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:19 PM
model numbers...not sizes.

Like what brand name and model subs are they




Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:57 PM
alpine type s




Posted By: Ketel22
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 6:29 PM
if i recall those come in both dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm. you said you have 4 ohm subs is that with the dual 2 ohm already wired in series or is it the dual 4 ohm model?

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Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 8:19 PM
thay are all 4ohm.....




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 9:08 PM

Alright.  One last chance, hatch.  The model starts with "SWS...".  We can do some research and find a DVC 4 ohm sub, but no single 4 ohm.  Tell the forum what you are working with.  And be specific.  If you're mixing up various brands, step #1 of my previous post applies and we're done.

but if they are not same brand and size...wipe the slate clean and don't use this combination.  No use buying an amp or amps for a sub combo that won't behave. 



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 3:42 AM
2 of them r sws-1041 and the dule 4ohm is sws-1042d    sorry i gess you jut wanted basic info....




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 8:37 AM
Here is the way I would do it.

Stereo amp, stable to 2 ohms per channel.

Wire the single voice coil woofers in stereo mode to the amp - one woofer to each channel. Wire the DVC woofer in series, so it is an 8 ohm woofer, and wire that in bridged mode across the channels. This will assure you that all the woofers will get the same amount of power, and will all run at (relatively) equal loudness.

With those three woofers, you will not be able to guarantee proper power distribution ANY OTHER WAY.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 9:47 AM

Okay.  These subs are not terribly dissimiliar, and efficiency is about the same.  They both use a sealed enclosure of about 1 cu ft per sub.  But the best advice is:

Use just the two 1041s wired together in parallel to make a 2 ohm load.  Build a nice 2 cu ft (internal size) box, sealed.  Use a mono amplifier that is rated at up to 500 watts RMS output at 2 ohms.  With good clean installation and careful gain setting and positioning, you'll have a nice sub system.

But if you are hellbent on using the combination of the three subs, you can do that if you wish without severe problems.  I would advise using separate enclosures so that you don't stick yourself with a three-holed box that is difficult to find a good combination of subs for.  You should use a 2 cu ft box and a 1 cu ft box, internal airspace after all displacements have been accounted for.  All should be sealed.

Wiring would look like:

posted_image

This is a series/parallel wiring configuration.  The DVC 1042D would get about the same power as the two 1041s combined, but that might not bother you and it may work out okay when all is said and done.  The load is 4 ohms, so you can use any type of amplifier.  Probably best to use a two channel amp that is rated for bridged output of 600 watts at 4 ohms bridged.  This would equate with a stereo rating of 2 X 300 watts at 2 ohms, so double-check that in the specs.  You can use less power, but no more than this.  And this is RMS output, not "peak" ratings.

EDIT:  I just saw haemphyst's post.  That's interesting....hmm.

Yup.  I agree with  Dave's wiring.  Disregard the connection between the two 1041s in my pic, and just let the wires exit the box individually for those two woofers.  Here is a wiring diagram complements of BCAE1.com:

posted_image

All else I said about power still applies.

Here's a new diagram.  I fixed it.

posted_image



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 3:15 PM
  • 1 or 2 channel operation
  • 150 watts RMS x 2 chan. @ 4 Ohms / 300 watts RMS x 2 chan. @ 2 Ohms / 600 watts x 1 chan. @ 4 Ohms
  • Bridgeable A/B Class Amplifier Topography
  • Ultra-Fi MOSFET Outputs
  • DC, Short, Thermal Overload Protection
  • Illuminated Hifonics Logo
  • PWM MOSFET EXVP (Exponential Vari-Power Supply)
  • SPC Twin Turbo-Torroids with Simpatico Coil Design
  • Fully Adjustable Accu Cross
  • Crossover Includes:
    • 12 dB Hi-Pass Crossover
    • 24 dB Low-Pass Crossover
  • Bass Boost:
    • 18 dB Variable Bass Equalization
  • Remote Bass Control Included
  • RCA Line Outputs:
    • Permit Amplifier Daisy-Chaining
  • 4 Gauge Power Connectors
  • Dimensions: L14.88" x W10.39" x H2.5"
  • 1-year Sonic Electronix warranty

HIFONICS-ZXi-6006-Zeus-2-CHAN-CAR-AMPLIFIER-AMP-ZXi6006_

ok would this one be good? 



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Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 3:30 PM
Please read the forum rules and do not post ebay links.  Thank you.

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Posted By: hatchtjuggal
Date Posted: February 09, 2007 at 9:12 PM
sorry about that i forgot





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