Hey, everyone! Please forgive me if my question has been answered elsewhere, but I'm currently using a GPRS cellphone connection, which is VERY slow. I did try a search or two, but it takes about 10 minutes just to open one thread. In any case...
I have a 2 cu. ft. sealed enclosure, with two 12" 800W (200W RMS) SVC 4-ohm subs. Amplifier gains are set according to my headunit's pre-out level (5V), so neither the amp nor subs are really strained (I'm more into SQ). First of all, I cannot figure at what impedance my subs are playing at. I have them hooked up to a class D mono-amp, with two sets of speaker terminals (+- +-). According to the amp's instructions, the amp's load is determined by the way that the subs are wired. It mentions nothing about bridging any of its channels to reduce the impedance. I have each sub wired to its own speaker terminal on the amp. My gut tells me that each amp is receiving a 4 ohm load. Am I right, or is it 2 ohms?
I built the enclosure myself, with a seperate chamber for each sub. Built it from 22 mm MDF. Needless to say, the things weighs more than a baby elephant and also takes up as much space! (I think I have the ideal weight distribution in my car now...)
This is my main question: If I replace these subs and enclosure with a 12" 1500W (380W RMS) DVC (4 + 4 ohm) sub in a 1.2 cu. ft. enclosure, can I expect similar performance as my current setup? Apart from the 20W difference in its rated output, what effect is the 0.8 cu. ft. difference between the two enclosures going to have?
The reason I'm not mentioning any components by name, is because here in South Africa, brands such as Sony (I don't have any) are regarded as very high quality... Although I'm more than satisfied with my current system, I don't think any of you guys will be impressed by it. I hope the above information is sufficient.
Hope somebody can shed some light on my query!
Frans Conradie, South Africa
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F R A N S
1985 Mercedes-Benz 230E
320 000 km / 199 000 miles
Full MB Service Historythe speaker terminals on your amp are the same +'s and -'s. the reason it has two is to simplify installation of multiple subs. your subs are wired in parallel playing at a 2ohm load. if you want to use the dvc subs you need to find out if your amp is 1 ohm stable as you can hook them up to be either 1 ohm ( both subs parallel), or 4 ohm (both subs series). if the box is sealed and seperate chambers you might notice a little difference in output due to reduction of airspace per sub, but the power handling will go up slightly.
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git yer swerve on!
swerve wrote:
the speaker terminals on your amp are the same +'s and -'s. the reason it has two is to simplify installation of multiple subs. your subs are wired in parallel playing at a 2ohm load. if you want to use the dvc subs you need to find out if your amp is 1 ohm stable as you can hook them up to be either 1 ohm ( both subs parallel), or 4 ohm (both subs series). if the box is sealed and seperate chambers you might notice a little difference in output due to reduction of airspace per sub, but the power handling will go up slightly.
Swerve he is talking about only using ONE dual 4 ohm subwoofer...so it doesn't matter if his amp is 1 ohm stable or not.
I would leave it be...the amp is seeing a 2 ohm load right now if you have each speaker wired to a set of terminals corresponding to the speaker terminals...+ to + and - to -.
Mono amps cannot be bridged...there is only one channel and it cannot be bridged to itself.
Your output most likely will be less due to total cone surface being reduced by half.
Please name the model and brands of your subs and amp...Specs are just specs...they don't really mean much
Also read the GAIN SETTING sticky...simply turning the knob on the amp to match the head units rated output voltage is not the correct way to set the gain