my big 3

I first started by adding a yellowtop, thinking that's all I needed. I then learned that the yellowtop could only hold as much 'reserve' (I guess) that the smaller one up front was capable of holding, so I got another yellowtop and put it in the engine compartment. - My headlights still dimmed - I then came across a good deal on a 1 farad digital-display capacitor, for a pair set of cheap Jensen tweeters. I installed the cap. - Lights still kindof dimmed. Wasn't till' recently that I learned about both the Big 3 Upgrade and the importance of the B.3.U. I just did my Big 3 the other day and boy, what a difference it still made even though I did 'everything else'. I technically don't have enough farads for my 2000w max system. My headlights still barely dim on real-low notes, but I should expect that considering I've still got my 105 amp factory alternator with a 102.5 max amp. draw audio system.

So advice to fellow newbies; do the Big 3 before even adding one aftermarket amp.

Caps really aren't worth it? It would be better to just sell it? I did the Big 3 with 8g. I have 4g from the front battery to the rear one. 8g from amps to rear battery(+ and -). 4g ground from rear battery to seatbelt bolt. I am about to upgrade rear battery ground to 1g.

My Music Reproducer:

HU= Alpine CDA-9830 (cooling fan, HP/LP)All I need

Fr. Stage= Alpine 3/4" tweeters(from HU's Fr. channels), SoundStorm 4x6's(from HU's Rr. channels)

Rr. Stage= -From front outputs- ClarionPro APA2104 on 2 Lanzar 61/2" and 2 Jensen 6x9" (2Ohms Stereo)

                -From rear outputs- Alpine 7 band EQ [(30w by 2) I forgot model #] on Jensen 3/4" tweeters

Bass= -From sub ouput- Lanzar Vibe241 bridged 2Ohms (I know, it is a tough one, and I'm waiting for it to blow) on 2 10" KickerComp(not VR)

         -From Lanzar output- Jensen JPA285 bridged 4Ohms on 1 12" RockfordFosgate Punch1

Corrections:

The rear output is actually going to the APA2104. The front to the Alpine EQ. The EQ, model# ERE-G160, actually has 9 bands.

I have all amps face-up, getting plenty of air but still know that having the LanzarVibe241 wired bridged 2Ohms will eventually blow, how else could I get similar output wiring it stereo 4Ohms(1 side to each KickerComp 10) other than by turning up the bassboost on the Lanzar. I don't want to turn that up b/c it's at 60hz. I like the 40hz boost from the HU. I have both sub-amps full range b/c I've got a 80hz crossover on the HU. I would have to turn them on LP in order to use the bassboosts which would require more turning on the LP x-over on the amps. Any Sugg's? Thanx

Just got done swapping in the 4g for the 8g on a quick 30 min. break. I started the car up and noticed the voltage display on the cap. read 14.7 - .8 instead of the usual 15 at idle. Lights on, no difference. Didn't turn the music on. Ran down the road about a 1/2 mile then back. The gauge still read 14.7. If I ditched the cap., then grounded the rear bat. better, then re-ran all my power wires -I could cut out like 3-4ft. from the front bat. to the rear one-, then everything would perform radically better and more efficiently? I would still like to have a voltage display for quick diagnosis -more like to have some sort of lights back there... -or would an amperage display be better for quick diag., of possible.?